SG91

Kinda off topic but, can some1 help me change gcodes? Would like to do this 1. If possible remove the auto home function just before it goes to do A skirt? Im abit bored of having to restart 1-2times cos of oozed filament get squished around the nozzle. And messes around with it at the print zone. 2. Automatic 210c first layer then go down/up to the temp I choosen in cura. 3. At the end to make it stay at idle temps 150c + bed 60 after.

at the walls it goes back and forth 1 time. what I can see. So annoying with un necessary blobs, it ruins the finish. And if you start to file or cut it gonna scratch everything.

Ok , I dont know details about it . I placed them very close. I just know it has to be the retraction. Its feels wrong to avoid the multiple parts feature cos of blobs.

Would like to hear all about retraction, how to get better blob free travels between parts. and when to change it ?

yes you are right. But driving faster on one small cant be good either? this one 180c just without the minimum time spent ea layer. the left part looks good now, (maybe of that Or me changed temps before) BUT still the issue at those two small walls. Can make 2 for cooler but it might be something else? Even did one in 0.2 today, turned out the same. Now printing 6 pieces at same time was suppose to be the parts to use. But as I thought there are some blobs caused by travel/retractions between the parts. And It irritates me

In what case is that good for then, a big object I think wont need slowing down . And a small bit would get over heated. ?

think I heard it slow down some time . shall I remove the 5sec spent on ea layer then?

Nope there was no red . either in overhang view .weird

Right! btw the second one looks better. But there are small errors still I Think. and from the top side both seems leaning abit if you can see. (the thick walls to the right. and half way up there is still some minor errors and to the left a tiny "bridge" look .

Yes I cant see that its under, operates fine. its the small wall I hope for will be right. Another thought, increasing time spent on each layer. Will it just go slower or take an extra turn around the block?

its up and running now cold as 184c. about 30minis in I lowered to 180. I suppose I should not go lower. The first positive sign is the blobs didnt occure inside the lower holes. Will see what happens at higher layers. i hope it wont screw up again.

ah I see. but u have nice tight belts then? I wait for my gt2 belts to come before I try boost it anyway for this small part sonic speed moves is not needed really ?

150 looks fast to me, the whole thing shakes . Wont faster make it miss steps ? its the tiny short wall im afraid of the most.My opinion sometime it choose unnecessary ways around things in travel mode. instead of short cuts.

okey but the Lars block was in 0.1 so I should do it again at 185c this time? and the travel speed was 150 or 160 at that time.

hm hard for me as a novice. I ment 25mm/s inside and out as you said. 100% fan speed . lol tried 0.06, did not work at all this time. Almost nothing came out. re started a few times .. jam.

umo+ 25mm/s 195c I want to print nice new Blocks. Tested one . But there is some ugly spots and blobs. Has to do about retraction? did a fine test too same settings.

Okey thanks guys for replies! About the tube, It turned out to be alittle rough inside And it did go away by some friction. So now it moves nice and easy back and forth. Still kinda tight but could have done it even smaller then. What known Pla And Abs does shrink less ?

Okey cos I did A tube 15mm outer diameter with 2mm thick wall. And 10.75mm inside diameter. it just fitted tight on A 10mm axle . so I guess for that dimension it shrinks 0.75 ? Its about 7% ?

can some1 explain this ? is it about the same all time or can it go from 0.2 -1mm or what?

hm weird after a few prints today I managed to get some better circles. Dunno what happened to the machine. Started to experiment in sketchup with rings to fit A 10mm drill axle. First tried 10mm didnt work. Then 11 abit vobbly. 10.5 too small . And finally I thought 10.75 yes its A perfect fit. Also first time attempt for me to make something bolt on. And it sits tight. anyway this is my default tension pushes them untill it says stop. Do I need tighten ? very small difference compare to left.

Thanks Netko. Sorry I always get confused with the jungle of parts but sorted it. will order from robotdigg 4x 606mm closed-loop gt2 belt 10x GT2 Pulley 20 Teeth 8mm Bore 2x 202mm 2GT-6 endless belt 2x UM 20 tooth 2GT pulley 5mm As the thread said. But atm my printer dont do perfect circles etc so it may be wrong when I need new x - y blocks. only have pla what do u recomend?

Ah okej! but length and width was not mentioned really

hello Can some1 link me matching belts and pulleys at http://www.robotdigg.com/ the gt2 ones.

Hello Got the curse with irregular circles. On my umo+ I re tightened all the pulleys today extra hard and re aligned the x y axis. Tightened the stepper motors also and its pulleys.. but wasnt helpfull. what shall I do next ? Before I did this I made the Z resonance test , its suppose to be a square ? But Y for me turned out 10mm and X 19.8 . repeating this test right now to see.

well an umo+ I ment I was curious to try controll the feeding to get some oozing before print. But I did push it too much ended up blocking the nozzle etc.. Had to take everything apart and cut off a short bit from the tube also cos the filament jammed up like a spotweld,