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taleo11

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  1. taleo11

    Kendama

    Version 1.0

    821 downloads

    These toys were popular back when I was in high school and I still play with mine today. I got sick of the spike dulling on my wood kendama so I reversed engineered my kendama so I can just print new spikes when mine dulls. Super easy print and a fun toy for kids making it a great gift for the holidays. I printed my ball as a single print but as you would expect the underside of the ball warped a little bit so I also added files of the ball split in half so they can be printed separately and glued together to make a ball without warping. The one thing I would advise when printing a kendama is to get the weights right for a more natural and authentic feel when using it. I weighed my wood kendama so I could get close to the same weight using simplify 3D's mass estimate. The ball should weigh about 73g and the cup plus the stem should have a combined weight of 64g. Remember when you're using your slicers mass estimate feature it includes the mass of the support structure which I would suggest you use when printing the stem and cups. The only thing you need to buy is the string but that can easily be made using a small bead and some sort of thin string. I will add an amazon link to a selection of kendama strings out there.
  2. Hi, So I followed your directions to get to my machine's .json file (UMO+) and this was the code in that file.. { "id": "ultimaker_original_plus", "version": 1, "name": "Ultimaker Original+", "manufacturer": "Ultimaker", "author": "Ultimaker", "icon": "icon_ultimaker.png", "platform": "ultimaker2_platform.obj", "platform_texture": "UltimakerPlusbackplate.png", "file_formats": "text/x-gcode", "inherits": "ultimaker_original.json", "pages": [ "UpgradeFirmware", "UltimakerCheckup", "BedLeveling" ], "machine_settings": { "machine_heated_bed": { "default": true } } } This doesnt look right at all but I'm not very good with coding so if you can assit me a little that would be great! All I'm trying to do is make the printer prime a little more before it starts printing so if you know a better way than to edit the start gcode let me know! Thanks!
  3. Hey guys, So im trying to do the dual fan set up but the fans i got dont seem to work. Heres the link: http://www.amazon.com/40x40x10mm-2-Wire-Cooling-Black-Cooler/dp/B00NWGM54S?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 They're 24v DC fans and i double checked the voltage and it is reading 24v but they just dont work. ive tried two different ones and they still didnt work. I have an umo+ and the stock 50mm fan works just fine so im still rocking that guy for now so my question is is there anything i can do to make the fans i bought work? or am i gonna need to buy special fans.. I make my own fan shrouds so I pretty much just glanced at the posts above and didnt see anything obvious about what fans to buy so If that information is above let me know. Thanks!
  4. With the UMO+, you can flip the X and Y motors to the outside of the case. Search Youmagine for ultimaker motor corner. You won't have to worry about them overheating, and print quality even improves. You can avoid needing new rods if you use bearing adapters. Yeah I flipped the motors to the outside and flipped the wiring so im less worried haha and I havent finished my enclosure yet but it doesnt seem to get too hot in there but I have a bigger hole for my bowen tube so theres a good amount of space for the heat to escape. But yeah so far results have been impressive. I've been able to print at lower temps too which is always good.
  5. Looks awesome becky! Are you worried at all about over heating your steppers at all? Im going to be building an enclosure for my UMO+ here in a couple days and my only concern right now it letting the enclosure get too hot since the bed will be at a constant 100c for hours and I dont want anything to over heat.
  6. Hey Phil, I've been having the same problem as you with my umo+ where cleaning the z rods also didnt work for me. How did you re-flash the firmware and do a factory reset? I'm still kind of a noob when it comes to firmware issues. Thanks!
  7. Okay I'll try those settings out and see what happens. Thanks!
  8. Okay I ran a print with 50% infill and 1.2mm bottom top thickness, .2mm layer height and the same thing is happening. There some parts seem to be over extruding as you can kinda tell from this picture. I thought about upgrading the hot end on my UMO+ but I couldn't find a real good thread talking about it. Would you suggest the e3d v6 hot end? I'm just not really interested in printing a whole new carriage and installing it since my printer is only a month old.
  9. The infill ive been using is 20 percent which i would think would be alright and increasing the top layer thickness didnt help much you can still tell the parts wont be waterproof. Should i play with the extrusion percentage? The bottom layers have been pretty good and each pass has been overlapping well.
  10. Yeah i checked that and its between 2.85 and 2.90 so i should be alright there
  11. Alright I'll try that out. Thanks for the help
  12. Hi, I'm a new owner of a UMO+ and so far my prints have been turning out pretty great! The only problem is that I'm getting some waffling on the tops of the parts. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem? Settings: hot end: 210 Bed: 60 Speed:50 Top thickness: 0.8mm Layer height: 0.2mm I'm using the filament that came with the printer and using the stock nozzle 0.4mm. Thanks for the help!
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