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brunbjoern

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  1. Ich habe von Bondtech eine spezielle Firmware bekommen, bei der die Länge des Bowdenzugs in der Firmware um 50mm verlängert wurde. Das hat aber irgendwie und unerklärlicherweise gar nichts gebracht. Ich "move" jetzt das Filament beim laden bzw. nutze den Klemmer des Feeders beim entladen. Finde ich insgesamt echt doof, aber der Feeder an sich ist echt besser, als das Original, das zuletzt Probleme machte. BTW, Tinker V19.03.1 hatte zuletzt dahingehend Probleme gemacht, dass es das Filament beim Start des Drucks zurückgezogen hat und es eine Weile brauchte, bis es dann wieder druckte. Der Druck war damit hinüber. Keine Ahnung, warum. Am Anfang hatte ich das Problem nicht. Ich habs dann nicht weiter verfolgt und bin jetzt erstmal wieder auf meiner Bondtech-Spezial-Firmware.
  2. Drucken tut er. Das habe ich heute mit Tinker V19.03.1 getestet. Von Bondtech habe ich bislang keine Rückmeldung bekommen, der Verkäufer will auch erstmal warten, bis Bondtech sich gemeldet hat und schlägt ausserdem vor, den Bowdenzug entsprechend zu kürzen. Davon bin ich allerdings nicht allzusehr begeistert. Der Bowdenzug kann ja nichts dafür. Ist das denn ein allgemeines Problem, dass beim Filamentwechsel das Filament nicht bis in den Druckkopf befördert wird? Wie würde man das denn in der Firmware ändern? Die konfigurierte Länge des Bowdenzugs im Code ändern? Viele Grüße Matthias
  3. Drucken tut er. Das habe ich heute mit Tinker V19.03.1 getestet. Von Bondtech habe ich bislang keine Rückmeldung bekommen, der Verkäufer will auch erstmal warten, bis Bondtech sich gemeldet hat und schlägt ausserdem vor, den Bowdenzug entsprechend zu kürzen. Davon bin ich allerdings nicht allzusehr begeistert. Der Bowdenzug kann ja nichts dafür. Ist das denn ein allgemeines Problem, dass beim Filamentwechsel das Filament nicht bis in den Druckkopf befördert wird? Wie würde man das denn in der Firmware ändern? Die konfigurierte Länge des Bowdenzugs im Code ändern? Viele Grüße Matthias
  4. Hi, ich hab den Bondtech DDG Extruder seit letzter Woche in meinem UM2+ montiert, habe aber Probleme damit. Mechanisch scheint es auf den ersten Blick keine Probleme zu geben. Der Extruder läuft ruhig und transportiert das Filament. Seltsam ist allerdings, dass beim Laden des Filaments dieses nicht bis zum Druckkopf bewegt wird, sondern 5-20 mm davor im Bowdenzug endet. Der Abstand variiert zwischen den verwendeten Firmware-Versionsn (5-7mm bei den Bondtech-Firmwares für den DDG, bestimmt 20mm bei TinkerGnome V17.10.1). Von dort an kriecht das Filament mit Druck-Geschwindigkeit gen Düse. Beim Entladen habe ich dann das Problem, dass das Filament nicht komplett entladen wird. Ich habe jeweils nach dem Flashen einen Factory Reset gemacht und in TinkerGnome E-step auf 311 und Loading speed auf 50 mm/sec angepasst (und geprüft). Der Bowden ist noch original und mit dem Originalfeeder und der Originalfirmware gab es diesbezüglich nie Probleme - da scheint die Länge zu stimmen. Der Bowden steckt an beiden Enden korrekt im Druckkopf bzw im Feeder. Hat jemand eine Idee, warum der Filamentvorschub deutlich vor dem Druckkopf stoppt? Den Bowden mag ich erstmal nicht ohne Not kürzen. BTW, ich hatte unter das schonmal gepostet, aber es hat bislang keiner helfen können. Eine Anfrage bei Bondtech läuft. Hat jemand eine Idee, was hier schieflaufen könnte und wie es zu beheben wäre? Vielen Dank und viele Grüße Matthias
  5. I today installed the Bondtech DDG Feeder in my Ultimaker 2+, installed the firmware provided on their webseite and did a factory reset afterwards. If I load a filament through Ultimaker's menu, it gets fast forwarded in the bowden tube but it ends before entering the print head. From there on the filaments proceeds in the bowden tube with the print speed until it finally reaches the nozzle and gets extracted. Unloading the filament causes the filament not to fully unload! With the original feeder/firmware everything was ok. I have been using the most recent orignal Ultimaker firmware and the original factory installed bowden tube. The bowden tube is fully inserted on both ends. I have checked that. I gave both firmware versions on the bondtech website a try, Ultimaker2_DDG_Firmware_20171023.hex and Ultimaker2_DDG_Firmware_20171117.hex as well as Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2plus-17.10.1.hex. I always did a factory reset afterwards. In TinkerI've set the E-step to 311 and Loading speed to 50 mm/sec as described by Bondtech. No Luck!. Filament stops far before entering the printhead, about 5-7 mm with the Bondtech Firmware, a bit more with Tinker. I couldn't find any settings in Tinker to define the bowden length. I am not ready yet to shorten an otherwise perfect-length bowden tube. Any ideas what might be wrong here and how to fix it? Many thanks Matthias
  6. Exchanged the Ulticontroller board and as expected, it works again. If I wouldn't have been low on spare time I would have soldered a separate switch to the board. Maybe next time, this time I had to shelf out €90. ;( The rotary switch is from ALPS but unfortunately I couldn't locate any model number. Many thanks for your support! Cheers, Matthias
  7. Unfortunately I am beyond this. 🙂 The click part of the switch is not working, even without the white knob. I will check the cables first as suggested by Erin and then head for a replacement board. Hey, it's just money!
  8. Hi Erin, thanks for your help. I will give this a try although I doubt it will help. All things point to a hardware defect in the clickwheel. It feels soft when pressing it, you can barely press it anymore.
  9. Ok, as expected I was able to find a document describing how to remove the clear plastic frame (https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187086-The-Button-Won-t-Click) just after my initial post. Unfortunately, it didn't help too much. It doesn't solve my actual problem on how to get the click thing working again. ;( Leaves me with the following questions: - Can I solder a switch to the board? Is there any description on what pins I should connect to an external switch? - Is there anything else I can check now that I have removed the clear plastic casing and it still won't work? - Can I manage the printer solely via software until I have sorted out the hardware issues? Any ideas? Before trying to find a source for a probably expensive replacement board. Cheers, Matthias
  10. My clickwheel today stopped recognizing the push button on my Ultimaker 2+. The rotary part still works I 'just' cannot click. I was able to remove the clickwheel's white cover. There was no dirt or whatsoever behind it. I failed in removing the knob from the board. Can anyone direct me to some kind of repair manual or describe how the clickwheel is connected to the board in order to remove it? I didn't want to break anything and use too much force. I hope someone out there can help me! Many thanks in advance! Cheers, Matthias PS: I have bought the printer in March 2017.
  11. I wanted to give some feedback after some weeks of printing with ABS. After printing successfully with the silver PLA provided I got myself a door and a top cover and started printing ABS. I got ABS filament from Ultimaker in order to reduce fiddling with parameters and once the bed was correctly levelled the prints came out very well. I am preparing the bed with the UHU glue stick and prints so far stick very well. With the UM I produce almost no scrap, everything comes out fine. Compared to the Da Vinci prints the quality is much better, altough it prints slower (Cura settings: 0.4mm nozzle and fast printing compared to 0.4mm nozzle and normal speed on S3D and the Da Vinci). I am quite happy! Thanks again for your advice!
  12. I have done my first test prints with the PLA provided with the printer. That was easy and the result looked good. I have now ordered a door and a top cover to be able to print ABS and also ordered a roll of ApolloX to give this a try. I got feedback from another user who had problems printing larger pieces with ApolloX. GrimJeeper91, unfortunately, WolfBite doesn't seem to be available around here. SytaxTerror, no I'm not from Scandinavia. Some years ago I have visited Skansen Zoo in Stockholm and liked the swedish name for brown bear. Now I would rather choose the icelandic name for pandas: bambusbjörn
  13. Hello everyone, many thanks for your replies and help provided! It is really appreciated! I have ordered an UM2+ last night with a roll of ABS filament from Verbatim and am looking forward to give it a try. I hope it doesn't get too frustrating before getting good prints. I will let you know and I hope I don't have to cry out loud too many times for help. Viele Grüße, brunbjoern
  14. Hi, I am currently struggling with a Da Vinci 2.0A and am looking into buying a new printer. I currently only print ABS as the stuff printed needs to survive summer time in a car. But more options - more fun. I've got the OK from my wife to shelf out a larger amount of money this time (this is an important first step). UM printers seem to get praised a lot but I am not sure yet if this is the right printer for me. If I order a UM2+ I would get doors as well. I would use high quality filament. I spent numerous hours reading reviews, forum entries and watching videos but I am at a point where every other review starts to confuse me more and more. I am aware that this is an Ultimaker (centric) forum. And I am also aware that I would need to spend some time with the printer to get to know it and what works best. What I am looking for: - reliable, good quality ABS prints - durable printer (low maintenance, e.g. hardly ever filament clogging - I've never had this problem with my da Vinci)) - not much tinkering needed (I don't mind tinkering later on, it's fun and I enjoy it a lot but the printer should print reliably from the beginning) - should print without problems if not used for 2-3 weeks (I never had problems with this, but heard that Ultimaker might have issues here. Is that true?) Please correct me on the following classification... UM2+ pros: - large community - spare parts available - open - good quality PLA prints (tests online seem most of the time to be done with PLA only) (but what about ABS quality?) UM2+ cons: - doors and top cover missing (doors are avaliable, top covers or complete casings are expensive) - no Ethernet/Wifi (ok, there are some projects out there) - expensive (yes it's a lot of money ) - I cannot use the 1.75mm filament I currently have (without problems or tinkering needed) Currently with the da Vinci, as it is a closed, dongled system. Filament comes in cartridges and they usually don't have a problem with humidity. With UM+ as well as most of all the rest of the printers the filament is stuck outside. Do you leave it there or do you always unload the filament and store it in a dry place? I would really appreciate your help and feedback. I am currently really frustrated because my current printer is a road with a dead end. I would like to move on and I have a direction but don't know which way exactly to go. Thank you very much in advance! Viele Grüße from Germany, brunbjoern
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