Octocom

I also asked Aliexpress seller SANJIUPrinter 3D Research Center Store and he managed to source the insulator. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000192534992.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.1e76454cuxyrYf

Hey, all I managed to get aliexpress REPRAP store to get the PI Hotend Insulator product for me, the even used your photo Alexjx until they can take a fresh one. you can now purchase on aliexpress which I find better than taobao. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000190893355.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.29283c00n8Usky&mp=1

Great thank you for the photos, so hard to get hold of. Aliexpress contacts I have made have asked for photos

Wow great, thank you Tinkergnome 🙂 nice and simple just the way I like it

Hey all, My hotend heater blew the other day and since then no matter what I change multiple times temperature sensors or heaters (30w,35w and 40W) with base pid settings for each watt the autotune always fails by over shooting over 20c. I have tried all suggestions on the forums for pid, but there is a consistent overshoot speed. I think my mosfet might be damaged, so I want to build a firmware using heater and temperature device 2 as default. If it is the mosfet at least I can use the 2nd connection as a redundancy so I don't have to buy a new control board. Can anyone advice the source code reverences need to be changed? and would this just be in the Configuration or Configuration_adv as well? Luke

nevermind figured it out, only need to swap two wires round motor side pins 3 and 4

Hi all, I'm trying to wire up a replacement nema 17 motor, where voltage amps etc are fine. its just the wire config is different. I have checked the control board schematics, but can't figure out which is -a -b see below 1=1b 2=1a 3=2a 4=2b Can anyone tell me which is which please? im trying to rewire an e3d with the following motor config 1=A 3=B 4=-A 6=-B Luke

Correction for above Cura flavor RepRap and simplify3d RepRap code fails for same setup of stl's. only UltiGCode works on SDCARD. usb printing via simplify3d works fine or if I remove g1 commands from start script

Hey guys, I'm trying to understand why a combination of Ultimaker 2 extended and Simplify3d causes out of print area with my custom area settings only on SDCARD, if you could give any pointers it would be appreciated. I have also noted this only happens in simplify3d, cura etc are fine. I have found if I use any G1 command for XY axis in the start script it will cause the error only on SDCARD, removed it works fine in Simplify3d or print from usb I do have a custom print area setup due to metal sliders and e3d mount: Ultimaker 2 extended custom 1.75 e3d mount and metal sliders Firmware: Tinker 17.02.01, others tested Print Area: x 0.00-205.00 Y 10.5 - 218.00 Z305.00 Software: Simplify3d 3.1.1 Testing start script: " G1 X xx and Y xx commands fail" G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 G28 Z0 G1 X15 ; tested x15 50 60 G1 Z50.0 F500 G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 F150 E25 ;extrude 9mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length agai M201 Z250 Luke

Hi All, What should I check when the extruder starts clicking from 37% into print everytime, it seems to happen when it get to a certain layer height. the first set of layers are perfect around 3mm. Luke

Hi Guys, I'm finally building an ulimaker 2 extended + after getting the parts over the last 6 months. Now its taken 2 days just to get the case right and realise the ultimaker 2 build guide there are differences, dyslexia and bulding a 3d printer dont mix :-( is there a knack to hooking sliderblock belts to the oppsite shaft pullys? iv tried but I cant push the shaft towards the other side of the frame and already popped one of the bearings out from the panel. are there any videos todo this? i'm a very visual person. Best Regards Luke