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yyh1002

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yyh1002 last won the day on April 3

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  1. Misalignment is one factor. IMO it is also because the short bearing is off center and the dock apply quite some force to the head during nozzle change. The force transfers to lateral load at the bearing. Looking at example applications of LM6 bearings, a single short bearing for one axis with such a thin rod really seem to be pushing the limit. Ultimaker did a good job getting it to work with their quality control. For individual tinkerers I would try to avoid this situation.
  2. You can totally try the existing version first. Short bearing should last at least several months. For the blower fan, 3015 works as good as 3510 thanks to more accurate duct aiming the nozzle and better fan shape.
  3. I pushed v1.5 update on GitHub. It is mainly to replace the 19mm short bearing with a long one for better reliability. Changes: 1. Both X and Y bearings are now both 35mm long, same as the original UM2 printhead. It is more stable and reliable. The previous 19mm Y bearing had a few downsides: only misumi sells ones with sufficient build quality, they wear faster than long bearing, etc. To make proper space for the long bearing, I had to increase the X offset of nozzles from 18mm to 19mm, and the housing from 35x35 to 38x38. This resulted in 2mm less X print area but it is well worth it. 2. New fan shroud design. Blower fan changed from 3015 to 3510. Homemade aluminium cover by soda can at the bottom. The fan shroud can be printed with lower temp materials such as modified PC (heat resistance of 90C). 3510 12v fan is easier to source with more consistent stock. For those of you who already bought the 3015 fans, there is still a fan shroud variant to use 3015 with v1.5. 3. Hotend fan changed from 2510 to 3010. Not really for performance improvement. 3010 5v is much easier to source and cheaper. 4. Lever dock is simplified with only one tab. This gives the lever freedom to sweep back at full speed, not limited by the travel speed of printhead. Nozzle 2 falls back to it's position with optimal momentum. 5. BOM is hence modified with the new fans and bearing. The hotend, spring and bolts stays the same. 6. Firmware update for v1.5 moved to dedicated repository. I may or may not update the assembly images because people can still figure out how to assemble v1.5 based on the original images. I'll upload the jig and instructions for making the aluminium bottom cover later.
  4. You can check out this post for the difference. Firmware 17.10.2 is for v1.1 update. 17.10.1 is the original.
  5. I only created the Z calibration model. The XY calibration model belongs to Mark2.
  6. You are welcome. I updated the BOM with the specific options to avoid confusion.
  7. There is no fundamental difference with firmware. I changed a few things for the hardware and my preference. To name most of them here: 1. Movement for nozzle change is slightly different. 2. After switching nozzle, the head heat up next to the dock and go directly to print. It skips the move of going to front prime position. 3. Y reach and bed levelling position are no longer related to dock position. 4. Changed temperature tuning limit from 25 to 99. 5. Limit the filament forward speed by max feedrate setting.
  8. Normally the seller is very responsive, something probably went wrong. Taobao is a local marketplace, unlike Aliexpress. Sellers ship items overseas through the Taobao's official parcel transfer service. Sellers normally don't directly sent international mail. It's possible that sometime the order is not placed correctly. If you would like to PM me your order number, I'm happy to check with the seller what's going on for you.
  9. I think you might need to swap the plywood sliding blocks with UM2 nylon blocks because the cross shaft on UMO is the other way around. No need to get the UM2+ extrusion upgrade. 90% of the parts on printhead are useless for this setup.
  10. Thanks! This is exacty what I need. I’ll see if I could get it to work. Web interface is handy to send prints, but if I stand in front of a print and something goes wrong, it’s not as quick to cancel on LCD.
  11. Hi tinkergnome, I've recently started printing with Octoprint. I'm directly using web interface without touchUI and additional screen. The firmware works really well with all the tuning options in LCD. The only main options missing are abort and pause. I'm trying to be able to abort print from the LCD menu. I did some searching and it seems impossible to communicate back to Octoprint for these commands. But could there be a work around such as telling the printer to disconnect from Octoprint/USB so the printer act like abort print? Thanks a lot! Ryan
  12. Congrats on being the first to make it from overseas!(except for me;))
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