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yyh1002

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yyh1002 last won the day on September 23

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  1. Very good observation. May I just correct one detail? The heatblock is not general 1.75 version of Olsson block. The orientation of male/female thread is reverse. It also has to be the specific heatblock from the heatsink seller. It's not the same as UM3. The following photo shows the original application of the heatsink:
  2. Unfortunately the hotend is not sold anywhere else. You might be able to find the part cooling fan on alibaba.com. I imagine there could be order agents for taobao.
  3. It's not e3d. E3d has diameter of 22mm. This one is only 13 in diameter and also shorter in length, much more suitable for dual nozzle efficiency.
  4. It's flawless. I printed high temp, flexible, and standard filament and haven't had any problem. Plus the consumable is only a piece of 2x4 PTFE tube which makes maintenance pretty much free.
  5. Thanks. The .hex file is correct. Are you using Cura 3.4 to upload it? For some reason Cura 3.4 cannot upload custom firmware successfully. Earlier versions such as 3.1 works. I'm not sure which aluminum pieces your are referring to. You can find all the links in BOM. Thanks for the kind words ? There is no need to remove the head or hotend to change nozzle. It takes a plier to hold the heater block to unscrew and install the nozzle with hex socket wrench. I printed everything with unmodified PC at 280 °C with the same hotend. I added a PI ring between the nozzle and PTFE tube for heat resistance, similar to the one by 3D Solex. The lever parts were printed at 0.05 layer height.
  6. Hey guys, I would like to share a lever action dual extrusion solution I came up with for Ultimaker 2+. The approach is based on the great effort everyone put into Mark2 and Ultimaker 3. The print head holds two hot ends, which are originally to be installed on standard UM2 head for 1.75 filament. The right nozzle move up and down for nozzle swapping. This compact dual print head can achieve single extrusion print area of 220x223x205, and dual extrusion print area of 202x223x200. Video clips: Files and instructions available at: https://github.com/yyh1002/DXU Credits: Lever lifting mechanism is inspired by Ultimaker 3. The firmware is modified based on Mark2 version of Tinkergnome firmware by @tinkergnome. CURA profiles are modified based on the Mark2 profiles by @tinkergnome and @foehnsturm. Used Mark2Tweaks plugin for CURA by Krys Lawrence.
  7. Thank you! I tested the code and half of it worked properly. The (1) lower build plate action is now exactly what I'm looking for. However the (4) raising has problem. After the tool change and moving to wipe position, the build plate would lower further instead of going up, resulted in printing in the air. I removed the (4) code and now it can successfully print with half implementation. I feel like that the pure Z move creates less vibration with the frame, and Z move speed and duration is not affected by XY movement, therefore result in a more constant noise. But it does add extra time to the print.
  8. Hey guys, I'm trying to separate the movement of XY and Z during nozzle change because the noise of XYZ moving at the same time is very loud and different. In a nozzle switching action, my goal is: 1. Lower the build plate 2. Move head to the dock 3. Head to wipe position 4. Raise build plate 5. Head to print position. Looking at the firmware, I'm guessing this part in Marlin_main.cpp is what I should change: if IS_TOOLCHANGE_ENABLED { if (IS_WIPE_ENABLED && (printing_state < PRINT_STATE_END)) { // limit fan speed during priming printing_state = PRINT_STATE_PRIMING; check_axes_activity(); } // execute toolchange script current_position[Z_AXIS] = destination[Z_AXIS]; if (nextExtruder) { cmdBuffer.processT1(moveZ, IS_WIPE_ENABLED); } else { cmdBuffer.processT0(moveZ, IS_WIPE_ENABLED); } } But I'm not sure how to change the processT1 line to separate the moveZ from T1. Or maybe I'm looking at the wrong place. I don't have programming background. Please help me with it. Thanks
  9. I tried export just two meshes again. I needed to transfer the model into mesh before export to make sure the overlapping part has the exact same mesh so the auto generated interlacing works perfect. I printed another one at 70% scale and 0.1mm layer, with fuzzy skin of 0.1 thickness and 0.2 distance. The skin finish is almost injection mould quality. The randomness of fuzzy skin makes the color mixing a bit messy. Is there a way to make fuzzy skin more regular with constant zigzags shifting every layer?
  10. Thanks for clarifying this. In this case I think it was because I export the overlapping geometry together with each color and the mesh possibly turned out slightly different. I tried export the overlap geometry by itself and the interlacing seem to work just fine.
  11. I tried this earlier. It works most of the time but the interlace is not as consistant as manual cut. Sometime the part shows same color for a few millimeters. It would be awesome if the feature is more reliable.
  12. I found that in my case the touching problem was caused by UltiGcode flavour. I switched back to Marlin and everything became perfect.
  13. I tried printing with the post processing script but the new head still go touch the model first. I'm using 3.4.
  14. Oops, my appologies to Tim. It’s been too long since I read the article so I just jumped in and refered to the author. Thanks for correcting me. I didn’t try the CuraEngine branch by Tim. I literally cut the objects in disks in modeling software.
  15. I did some testing on creating the third color with dual extruder, inspired by Tim Kuipers’ greyscale printing research and the effect on prime tower (https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/49783-3d-hatching-grayscale-printing-on-the-ultimaker-3). Interlacing two colors can create third color on vertical surface quite consistantly as long as the two nozzles are properly calibrated. I then tested the idea with an astronaut model by BZH1 meant for 3-4 color (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2609610). I prepared the model with Rhino, manually cut the third color into slices, and imported into Cura together with the other two colors. Surprisingly, Cura was able to hollow out the third color instead of printing it as a solid piece. The print came out has a nice tone thanks to the additional color. It is showing mixing inconsistancy possibly because of heated bed shape change or one of the magnets on my mark2 coming loose during the print. It would be nice if CURA can add a third color choice and slice the part with half tone treatment as an experimental feature.
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