ultradryan
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Posts posted by ultradryan
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I was having trouble printing with "extra fine" setting (default, with brim, PLA)
The print would always fail from start because the brim wont stick well to bed.
it wont happen often when the i print with "fine" or "normal" setting.
After a lot of experiment, I discovered that the print will work just fine if i do not do active leveling and only do manual leveling instead.
To a closer look, what seemed to be the problem is that after active leveling, printer will adjust and brings the nozzle too high from bed so that the brim wont stick, and this has been a problem especially when i am printing with "extra fine" since the layer was supposed to be even thinner. This also seemed to have explained that why this happens less when i print in "fine" or "normal" settings.
Is it me or this a normal phenomena? I am now printing with active leveling completely disabled and the prints work okay so far, as long as I dont let the machine do active leveling.
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PLA. small object but still there's some serious wrapping. 190C at 60mm/s. Fan is at 100% and are working. other settings are more or less using default CURA fine print with skirt.What more can I do improve the print?
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2 hours ago, dxp said:
Opps, after a few more tests, i did find out, manual leveling really is okay, as long as no active leveling is overriding it.
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here's the situation:
Z Distance between the nozzle in Core 1 and Core 2 seemed not remembered by the firmware, or it is ignored during print, or something went wrong during calibration.
Core 1 will always be well calibrated and printing well, however, Core 2 will always got pressed too close to the bed that blocks the filaments from coming out.
After Active leveling, Core 2 nozzle always pressed too close the bed during print, as if it is ignoring the result done during calibration..
after running more of tests, it seems that Manual Leveling does not have this issue.
I have done a lot of tests, switching print cores(i have purchased one extra print core), and the result is the same.
So i guess it is not the problem of the print cores but something is wrong with the machine doing Z calibration.
And it seemd to me the machine is ignoring the Z calibration that is done in active leveling, so every time when print started, it went all the way pressing nozzle too close to bed again.
Not sure if this is a firmware issue but i would like to post here to see if it shines any clues.
Some other users also have this similar problem and is forced to print on one nozzle (Core 1),
unless one kept doing manual leveling and forces the machine to never do auto leveling thus not to override manual leveling setting.
And this seemed to happen fairly recently, so i guess it could be something about the latest firmware update.
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5 minutes ago, dxp said:
Yes, I made the same experience. Manual levelling changed that for me.
while manual calibration, do u leave the nozzle 2 a little bit higher on purpose so to compensate the problem that it press too close to bed?
Because in my case, manual calibration still doesn't help much, I guess I will hv to lift the nozzle 2 a little bit higher during Z caibration so that is room for it to press against the bed, but that sounds very unscientific.
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4 minutes ago, dxp said:
So, you're running the latest firmware? (Just to be sure...) Auto-levelling - doomed to Never? Clean the outside and the hole of the nozzle, heat them up, heat your print bed and try again. Print a wide flat part with both cores to see, if it works (of course you can tweak the screws while printing to get some nice flat printed first layer lines (same level for both cores!). You really need that correct z-offset because you don't want to turn screws in the middle of a print 😉 In my case, turning off Auto-Levelling was the key.
Yes i am running the latest firmware.
The Nozzles are always cleaned, I also switch a another core into nozzle 2 just to test it out, same issue persist.
What happens here is that the Nozzle 1 will always print well, but Nozzle 2 will always get too close to bed, blocking filament.
The distance between the 2 nozzles are wrong, somehow, and I do not know how to set it manually or so. Now I can only print with Nozzle 1, because Nozzle 2 always be in a wrong Z calibration.... This is so disappointing, the machine has been running ok for the past year, but problems here and there starts causing issues.
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12 minutes ago, dxp said:
We discussed that here - maybe you find an answer (mine was to turn off automativ levelling because turning screws was not looking professional enough for me 🙂 ).
I have turned off active leveling, it still doesnt work.
Problem is either that the firmware seemed to not remembering the settings of my manual leveling, or that the Z calibration between 2 nozzle was somehow wrong.
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I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly.
AT first, I thought my Ultimaker3 printer's active leveling started to fail.
After a few more times, even manual leveling isn't helping, I guess.
No matter how i manually level the nozzles, or use active leveling, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started.
I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it.
Is there a fix to this? I am not sure why this is happening.
I suspect the distance between Nozzle 1 and Nozzle 2 somehow was wrong, becuz nozzle 1 works just fine...
Meanwhile to keep work going, I manually loosen the 3 screws a bit after manual/active leveling to compensate it while using nozzle 2.
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i am facing similar issue, and there's seem to be no fix
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print as support is now a bug it doesnt work.
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I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly.
No matter how i manual level the nozzles, whenever active leveling is done, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started.
I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it.
Core 1 will always be fine and well calibrated, while Core 2 will always be too close to bed, after active leveling.
Either the active leveling is buggy, or the result of Z calibration between the 2 nozzles are not memorized by the machine.
Is there a fix to this? I am not sure why this is happening.
I suspect the distance between Nozzle 1 and Nozzle 2 somehow was wrong.
Now I have to set the machine never to do active leveling, and rely on manual leveling.
It will be great if there's a way to manually set the Z distance difference of the two cores in cases like this when the active leveling somehow failed?
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i have thrown away some more obviously layer shifted ones. but in the photo there's a layer where up to a point the print shifted a bit to the right. this usually happens when printing two-leged models from bottom up, perhaps somehow the nozzle knocked the print a bit and the two towers doesnt match up at some point and show shifting. Printing slower somehow prevent this from happening
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6 minutes ago, geert_2 said:
The first layer may be too cold. Hotter gives better bonding. Also, it needs to be squished well into the glass, thus into very thin flat layers, not round sausages.
You did not mention if you used any bonding agent, so I guess not?
Some people have excellent results with 10% dilluted wood glue in water (user gr5's method), some with the standard stick (sometimes with spreading the glue with a wet tissue), some with hairspray (user neotko).
I prefer my "salt method": after cleaning the glass, then clean again with pure warm tap water only. And then wipe it with a tissue moistened with salt water. Gently keep wiping while it dries. This leaves a thin mist of an almost invisible layer of salt stuck to the glass. It greatly improves bonding when the glass is hot (compared to printing on bare glass), especially in moist weather when bonding is low otherwise. After cooling down, the models pop off by themself. For the next print, just wipe the glass again with the salt water. No need to take it out anymore. For me the ease of application and the ease of taking the models out, makes this attractive.
It works very well for PLA, and for my low and wide models. But I do not recommend it for narrow and high models like statues or lantern poles: these tend to get knocked over. For these, use a glue that can absorb shocks better. Also, it does not work for ABS, PET (it makes PET a bit less sticky).
For my old but still usable manual, see:
https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/
The model at the front is freshly printed. The one at the back was heated in an oven at elevated temperature (70...80°C), to see how it would warp and shrink, which it did obviously, thereby showing the huge internal stresses. It prints fine without lifting corners at 100% infill.
Below is a small test model I use to try which bonding methods work well. It excerts huge warping forces due to the large overhangs and small bottom area, so good for testing and comparing. Stay with the printer, as this is likely to come off and produce "spaghetti".
Dimensions of my model above, to give an idea.
Thanks,
How much % of salt do u add to the water?
My bed is manually leveled, any other settings I should look into perfecting the print, if printing in lower temp wont help much?
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I am usually printing small figurines so i didn't walk into much warping issues.
until now that i have to print a box-like object with a large base.
It seems the normal default print settings that worked in the past doesnt fit now.
I was printing with mostly default "fine" profile on UM3 with 0.4 nozzle PLA 185C at 50mm/s, with a Brim, 60C build plate as usual.
Sometimes the base of the model will warp up so far as it lift some of the brim around it off the build plate.
Lot's of tutorials out there talk about wrapping issues, some mentioned very different/contradicting solutions, but I still fail to perfect my print.
Printing with lower temperature sometimes cause even more warping/lifting the brim, that's to my surprise.
I am wondering if printing slower factor into issue?
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printing even slower simply soft the problem, i lower it down to 20mm/s and the shifting is gone.
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I am printing somefairly small miniatures and their legs always give me headache for printing.
The above image shows the layer shift on the legs.
I am using UM3 with PLA, most of the time my prints are fine but when it comes to small things and structure like this it seemed to fail.
The adhesion is okay, but after a while the nozzle started to sort of knock the legs around a bit causing a layer shift during print.
I have been printing slow at 30mm/s.
I have checked the belt and they are tight.
I have done manual leveling on buildplate just in case.
Switching materials(brands) doesn't seem to hv differences, and this is some good eSun filament.
none of the above action help.
So I am going to show you how i slice my STL, see if i done sth wrong there.
I have tried different ways and both still have layer shift issues.
The first one with support interface enabled, support enabled, support brim enabled, tree support enabled, and increased 40% support density.
The nozzle would knock on the printed legs and cause layershift mid-way, usually on one of the legs.
The second one is on same settings but with a manually added cube printed as support.
This one has less major layershifts but lot of minor shifting along the print, the result is shown in the first photo.
Any good advice?
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both my ipad and iphone, at home or workplaces, the um3 app is not working.
Always says the device is not in wifi network, or when it does(kind of) it never be able to show the camera.
Both machines and devices should be installed with the latest firmware update(though cura connects does work fine on browser).
Is it just me or is this known issue?
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3 hours ago, yellowshark said:
@geert_2 is right, on that geometry slow and cool is key. I wonder what your settings are?; personally I would go no faster than 30mm/s and 190-195 degrees depending on layer height. Now another thing that could help you...
These two versions were printed with the same filament and settings except the first one used a 0.4 nozzle and the second one a 0.8 nozzle. I guess I may have pushed the extruder temp up 5 degrees for the extra flow of filament from the 8mm nozzle. I cannot guarantee it would work, your curve is convex and mine concave but the principle is the same, more material in the the wall being printed laying down on the previous layer. Err lol I was shocked too!
Thanks all, printing slow does fix the problem. At first i thought it's the leveling that caused the collapsing. Printing slow or with a prime tower does allow more time for cooling and solved the issue.
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my ultimaker 3 was working just fine most of the time, until i hv to print this egg (with PLA).
the bottom left of the egg always got deformed, always the same spot, the bottom left part where it faces the left side of the printer, no matter how i rotate it.
I suspected bad bed leveling causes the issue, so I hv tried to do manual and active bed leveling, problem persists, still the same spot gets deformed.It seemed like the egg was cooling down unevenly while print, causing the left side to somewhat accumulate oozing and collapse.
Interestingly, I hv no problem printing other things, and if this egg was printed up side down, similar problem does not occur.
Any one hv any idea why this is happening? really wanna print it just up right without that deforming.
[UPDATE]
PRINTING slower or setting minimum layer time does solve the problem. it seemed that the accumulated oozing and collapse was caused by not enough cooling time per layer.
Although it is unclear why the part where it collapses always happens on the same spot.....
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ok, so i sort of being able to pull the cable cover on the left side.
but the one on the right side i.... just cant seem to find the right way to pull it off...
Any tricks on that? I need to replace the printcore cable....... and i need to pull that cover off to do so.... -
ok how do i connect SDcard to the mother board's mico-sim card slot???? i go buy a converter or sth?
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55 minutes ago, itretail said:
Tried to do the recovery process as per gr5's post initially just hung on Ultimaker logo, so reformatted and copied the image again, then it just seems to boot normally ignoring the sd card inserted. In desparation tried a factory reset. Now will not connect to wifi as per other posters after performing wifi setup. So i am left with a unusable printer, and still not a word from the manufacturer!!
Ihv similar issue, but my screen was forever stuck on an error message ER18 after reboot, fail to get into menu screen. normal means to solve ER18 error doesnt work, it just stuck at an error message screen after the logo splash screen and i suspect it's the same firmware issue. I also did not get anything from my reseller yet and the printer is unusable. Struggling whether or not should i try gr5's way to boot from sd card....(yet i cannot do so yet becuz there's no sd card slot on my mother board of my UM3, not sure if different batch of UM3 had different models)
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MY UM3 went completely bricked after lastest firmware update
it shows ER18 message right after boot up, after the logo splash screen, the machine is completely bricked now since it cannot boot into normal screen menu. YES i know there are Normal ways to fix the ER18 message but they wont work this time, reconnecting the cable at the back of the core doesnt help.
It sounds like a software to me. and now i can do nothing about it -
hey after the latest firmware updates i am getting a lot of ER18 errors from printheads. usually rebooting or fixing the cable at the back of the core might work. Now the error message pops up right after the logo splash screen , meaning it wont boot into normal menu and it's totally unusable. Does this sounded bricked? can I fix that with the said method?
UM3 active leveling always set nozzle too high from bed
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
ah great idea i will look into it. Am curious if something is wrong mechanically with the active leveling that causes that.