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geert_2

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  1. As an alternative, you could always design your own custom brims and supports in CAD. And then switch them off in Cura. This can be usefull for complex shapes or special requirements, for example if you need way more brim on one side, but not on the other side, or if the brim needs to have a special shape to get in with tools to make it easier to remove.
  2. Nice, looks a bit like the old English coins I once had. You used an interesting support-strategy here. Did you do this with a single nozzle, or did you use PVA supports also? How did that bottom area come out, concerning sagging and curling up? In the next batch, could you make a close-up of that, before post-processing?
  3. In the older Cura-versions there was a setting "Combing" or something similar, which did exactly this: then the head would keep on already printed material, avoiding voids. I don't know about the most recent versions. Have you searched for that? However, this will not prevent blobs in some materials (the PET that I have): material is accumulated on the nozzle during printing, and then it sags and is deposited on the print in a thick blob. If this happens near the edge, is will spread outwards. So you have to post-process anyway with some materials.
  4. Maybe try pushing down the white ring with a suitable size hex wrench, or a ring or similar, so the load is distributed evenly on the ring? And then gently first push and then pull on the tube, and wiggle a bit? But always relatively gently. No brute force?
  5. To make removal of the clips easier, you could use these, or design a similar one yourself. Then it is piece of cake. For the model, see here (and then scroll down a bit): https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ In my own machines, I have a new design that is a bit optimised, but I haven't uploaded it yet. But I used these for 3 years; and they are reasonably good.
  6. That is nice. I could imagina this used for making emergency chalets, containers, caravans and other mobile homes. Lots of great application possibilities. How is water-tightness? (Important for boats and houses) I would like to see the boat in the water in real use. And how layer-bonding and strength, especially impactstrength? And resistance to sagging/deformation when the model is placed on uneven grounds? And how is the "filament" melted? Or do you use pellets, or liquids? I think a system with fast-curing composites with integrated mixing tip might also work: then the heat-problem would be solved, since it cures chemically. Similar to the dental mixing tips below (this is silicone, but they also exist for epoxies in other fields).
  7. Or you could design and print your own custom low-friction spool holder, for mounting on the back of the machine. My design will not fit your spools (it is for single standard spools only), but you are free to borrow and adapt the concept. It uses one standard 608 bearing (=also used for skater wheels). Design-files are in the rsdoc-format (=native DesignSpark Mechanical format), so if you have DSM you can edit them. Be sure to make it much stronger to support a large heavy spool. I also have an anti-unwind clamp that freely slides around the edge of colorFabb spools, to prevent the filament from falling off, and to clamp it while in storage. But there do exist lots of other designs too, often incorporated into the spool holder. It won't fit you either, but you can use the idea. See this page (and scroll down a bit) for the spool holder and clamp: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/
  8. On my UM2 (single nozzle) printing in thicker layers reduces this effect quite a lot. But then of course you have more visible layer lines. So it depends on whether your application can have this. Maybe you could design a small test piece, but not too small so it still has enough cooling. And try printing that with different layer heights, orientations (for testing cooling flow), temperatures and speeds?
  9. For the spool holder with integrated balance: near the end of an old spool of stiff PLA, it may take 1kg (10N) to unload filament, to overcome the "spring effect" trying to wind it up again. Sometimes I can lift a nearly empty spool by the filament, without it unwinding. So, depending on the orientation of the pulling force, this might introduce quite big measuring errors, I think? This would especially be a problem where accuracy of the remaining length matters most: at the end of the spool. But at least this system provides a simple linear conversion between weight and remaining length, once the weight per meter is known. But this weight per meter would have to be changed per filament, otherwise printing with a metal-filled material might give unpleasant surprises. So it requires bookkeeping weights for each material and each color of filament (particle filled pigments like white might weight different from other pigments). For the geared meter: where is that supposed to go? This is not clear from the pictures or description. I guess it has to sit on the feeder, or on the filament entering the feeder, so it measures the length that passes by? Definitely not on the spool, due to the varying diameter of filament while unwinding. However, how does this system handle switching spools? I switch colors and materials maybe 20 times per spool, before it is empty. Then how is this meter going to adapt to this, without a complex manual bookkeeping and resetting? I think all this added complexity is prone to errors, and relying on it might cause more failed prints than just visually estimating the remaining amount, and using common sense. The best "guestimators" in complex varying situations might be humans. :-)
  10. I think they are going to be too stiff. And blobs, irregularities and print lines are not going to help making it water-tight. Unless you would squeeze it extremely hard between thick steel flanges. If you don't want to store gaskets, or originals can not be found anymore, I think you would be better off cutting new gaskets from a sheet, with a knife or a Dremel tool? Or use self-curing silicone or similar paste? For comparison: transparent PVC tubing for aquariums is much softer than TPU. But when I tried to use that recently to make a seal for my water-cooled disk grinder, I had a lot of problems getting it water-tight. Even the slightest amount of corrosion and oxidation on the surface of the metal, caused leaks. So, even soft PVC is not flexible enough to follow these tiny irregularities and close the gaps. But if you would try it anyway, let us know the result. It would be interesting to know.
  11. The thing is that a lot of spools are not transparent. They only have a small window, and they *do rotate*, and so does that window. So you can not see nor measure from the axial side how much filament there is still left on the spool. You would have to measure radially, thus from the top (sort of), and then calculated differences in distance by means of the reflected light, similar to a radar. And then calculate radiusses and circumferences for each winding, and the amount of windings. And then things soon start to get very complex. When you have spools that are very loosely wound, or materials that are very transparent, you are still likely to run into problems due to false measurements. So, a paper label glued to the spool, or moulded-in indicators showing the remaining amount, seems by far the most simple and robust, even though very crude. But then, I am a simple man, so I prefer simple solutions. If there are problems, I try to solve them by taking their complexity away, not by adding extra complexity, because then it soon gets too complex for me. :-) Anyway, I have never been confronted with this problem myself, as my prints typically require 3 meters of filament. So when the spool is nearly empty, I just unwind the last meters and let them hang free. Very easy to estimate. But I understand this is not practical for large prints requiring maybe 30 meter...
  12. I guess redesigning it to make it smaller is not an option, as probably some elektronics have to fit in? I would consider printing it in two parts, flat on the glass. But then it might be a good idea to have some overlapping areas in the side walls, if the design allows for it, so you can glue it better. See the pic below for the concept. Another option might be to print it diagonally on its side, from front left to back right, instead of slanted vertically? Then you only have to provide supports the top edge that is overhanging, and the bosses. To minimise the amount of support, and the damage it does, you could use free hanging supports like in the pics below. When printing like this on its side, you need good brim and good bonding, and then the whole thing still might get wobbly, depending on dimensions, wall thickness and speed.
  13. Multiple lines of skirt (=an outline around the model, but a few mm away from it) do solve the underextrusion due to the oozing before printing. I usually do between 3 and 10 lines of skirt, depending on the size of the prints: the most for small prints, the least for larger prints. I don't have problems getting them to stick, even if the beginning stutters a bit. Also, it gives you the opportunity to check if your bed leveling is okay, and it purges the nozzle and removes some of the dirt in the nozzle that often comes loose when starting a new print (=tiny black flakes in the melt). See the photos below. This is on UM2 printers, but it should also work for other models. (Note that these were testprints for trying-out bonding, overhangs and warping. Don't pay attention to any defects in these areas, but concentrate on the skirts, thus on the outlines around the prints: these are well printed.)
  14. Have you tried blowing the readers out with compressed air? Quite often there are dust and hairs accumulated in the slots, causing bad contacts between the cards and slot. This has helped several times for me. Do the printers fail on all cards, or on only one or two cards (but in all printers)? You could also have a bad SD-card, or a bad batch of SD-cards. Or you could have a program that has corrupted the cards. Or accidental corruption due to power loss or removing the card while writing to it. That sort of things. I am not saying these are the solutions (you may have bad readers indeed), but cleaning the slots and reformatting/replacing SD-cards would be by far the quickest and cheapest fix. If it works.
  15. I think so, otherwise the problem should have moved with the glass. So it must be or a bent bed, or incorrect leveling, or both? If you would have a steel ruler or a steel bar that is totally straight, maybe you can put that on the bed, and see if it gives perfect contact everywhere? Or does light shine under it in certain areas?
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