Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up

geert_2

Ambassador
  • Content Count

    1,606
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    21

geert_2 last won the day on May 14

geert_2 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

409 Excellent

3 Followers

Personal Information

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Maybe from another computer you could recover a dedicated graphics card, and put that into your computer? Or use older Cura versions? Depending on what you want to print, on which machine (e.g. on older UM-printers), this might be sufficient?
  2. I have heard that there should be absolutely no broken-off bits and pieces of previous models left in the vat, because that would ruin the next prints. Maybe that is why they empty and clean the vat? And sift the resin? But I have no personal experience, except for seeing it once. And yes, the "mess" and chemicals were some of the main reasons why we chose for FDM back then... But I think you would best search a dedicated resin-printing forum for this, they are going to have way more experience and tips.
  3. Looks good. The "cold" metal suits this model. Instead of plating, have you ever tried automobile "chrome" painting sprays? Not the "metalic" sort with little flakes, but the real "chrome" look spray-cans? The sort that is used on car bumpers, wheels, and decorative chrome stripings? I have seen it on model cars, but I have never used it myself, so I don't know what preparation is required, nor how well it withstands bending, temperature, weather, etc. Migth be worth trying on a scrap piece.
  4. Als de "verbrande stukjes" eruit zien als kleine zwarte schilfertjes, dan komen ze wellicht uit de nozzle: dan is die van binnen aangekoekt en moet je die reinigen met "atomic pulls". Zoek hier ergens op de Ultimaker-site. Of kijk even naar mijn soortgelijke maar veel zachtere methode hier (en dan een beetje omlaag scrollen): https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ Als de verbrande dingen eruit zien als lichtbruine smurrie, in een blob op de print, dan komt dat waarschijnlijk van de buitenkant van de nozzle: soms blijft daar materiaal tegenaan kleven, en na een tijdje gaat dat verbranden en zakt het af, tot het op de print valt. Die blob wordt dan door de nozzle een beetje uitgesmeerd bij volgende passages. Vooral bij kleverige materialen zoals PET gebeurt dit gemakkelijker. In mijn UM2 (non-plus) heb ik dit verminderd door de nozzle te behandelen met teflon-olie en siliconen-olie. De nozzle opwarmen tot 200°C (zonder filament erin!), en dan een beetje van die olie op een stukje zeemvel spuiten, en dat zeemvel tegen de nozzle drukken. Zodat de olie en teflon tegen die nozzle gebakken worden. Dit elimineert het probleem niet, maar het wordt wel minder. Dit zijn geen officiële methodes, ik ben geen Ultimaker-personeelslid, maar voor mij werken ze wel.
  5. Or maybe try the opposite, reduce the current to let's say 900mA? Then the problem should get way worse if friction is the cause. But I think this would give less risk of damaging the electronics? But anyway, if it is friction, you should be able to feel it by hand, by moving around the head manually with the printer off. Further, if I remember well, there was an old UM2-series that had wrong resistors, causing a too high current, which in turn caused the drivers to get too hot, and temporarily shutting the chip down? I had this effect a couple of times on the Z-axis of one of my UM2: the driver would shut down, the bed would drop about 5mm, but it would keep printing. After the Z-chip cooling down the bed would continue moving down normally as if nothing had happened. Except for the 5mm-gap in the print, of course. After reducing the current to 900mA this never occured again. I am still not totally sure this was the cause, and if reducing the current did solve it, or if there was something else going on in parallel.
  6. I don't have dual-nozzle printers, so I can't help with your question. However, another thing: if you want the vase to be water-tight, be sure to print it slow and in very thin layers. In thick layers of 0.3mm this filter housing had lots of tiny holes, through which the water jetted out. In 0.06mm layers, it was perfectly water-tight. I printed this in a single material (PLA); but dual materials is even more difficult to get watertight.
  7. Thanks. Yes, this already gives a good understanding of the orientation.
  8. Thanks, this is a good idea. My current activator is not a spray, but a pen with felt tip, like a fluo marker pen. But I could probably apply it to the outer edge only, where glue would ooze out indeed, to get the same effect. I will try next time.
  9. Long ago I made a font for my 3D-texts. But this was in DesignSpark Mechanical's RSDOC-format only, as I didn't know how to make a real font-file. Recently it seems a guy by the name Jason Chall has turned part of it into a real font-file. Thanks! See here on Github or Thingiverse: - https://github.com/pbz/geert-font - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4160261/files My originals in DesignSpark Mechanical format "RSDOC" are here (sroll down a bit): - https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ I have looked at this font in Windows' font viewer, and the characters seem very close to the original. But I haven't tried it in a 3D-editor yet, so I can't comment on stability, character spacing, or bugfree-ness yet. Originally I designed it on a 0.25mm grid, for a fontsize of 3.5mm caps height, and it had 0.5mm wide legs, thus well suited for a standard 0.4mm nozzle. Don't go too much smaller, because then the slicer might drop legs that become thinner than 0.4mm, unless you use a smaller nozzle. Feel free to use the font. You may also modify it, as long as you keep it free when reposting it (Creative Commens - Attribution - Share-Alike License; CC BY-SA). This is the original set (not all characters and images are converted into the font-file): Printed as watermark text (=hollow): Screendump snippet showing the font in Windows font viewer:
  10. Could it be that you selected the wrong printer in Cura, or whatever slicer you used? Or its bed dimensions in Cura got corrupted? Or else: defective SD-card, corrupt gcode files, hairs or dust in the SD-slot causing bad contacts (try blowing it out with compressed air)? Or something else along this line...?
  11. Yes, I would welcome videos on your techniques. Thanks.
  12. You would need to sit next to the printer and keep watching. My guess is that the bed is not perfectly clean, and/or the glue (if you use glue for bonding) is not spread equally. So the printed sausage does not stick perfectly. In such cases, I have seen these printed lines lifting a little bit on the outer edge. And then, on the next pass of the nozzle in the opposite direction, they would be melted again and be pushed against the bed again. If the bed-adhesion is not identical everywhere, this could cause similar irregular patterns. Filament with silver or glossy particles makes this much more visible, since the orientation of the filler particles changes, and thus their reflection. Mostly the fillers are flakes, little mirrors. Printing thinner first layer lines might help. But then your bed leveling and bed flatness need to be very good. You can see this effect to some degree in these photos too:
  13. Wow, print quality and smoothness is impressive, especially the teeth. Did you use supports for the fins? I was trying to see in which orientation you printed it, but I can't see the layer lines. :-) The color, is that colorFabb's translucent orange?
  14. Is this also present Cura's layer view? If yes, it is most likely a Cura software-issue. If no, it is most likely a printer hardware-issue (which I think it is): or the motor is missing steps due to too much friction, or some pulley is sliding over its shaft instead of gripping it, as gr5 said. The "too much friction" can be identified by moving the head with your hands: this should go smoothly and evenly in both directions. If you almost can't move it by hand in one direction, then the motors can't either. I had this once when a new oil I used for lubricating the rods, dried into a sticky, thick gum in a couple of days. For a pulley sliding over its drive shaft: also check the ones on the stepper motor: they see twice as much load as the others. Further, I have no idea how likely a dying stepper motor or printed circuit board are?
×
×
  • Create New...