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geert_2

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geert_2 last won the day on December 3 2018

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  1. geert_2

    Ultimaker 2 Damage

    I don't know about the procedure, so I won't comment on that. Have you tried loosening all frame-screws (not removing, just set loose) and realign everything, and then fix them again? If there would not be too much permanent deformations in the panels, this might work? (Maybe except for the top panel, which seems deformed.) The assembly manual should give info on how to align things, I guess? After that, I think you also need to inspect the rods carefully: when *manually* rotating them, do they move smoothly without wobbling, and without getting stuck? (Don't force anything if it doesn't move smoothly and easily.) Also, test if the electronics, motors, heaters and display still work? Manually heat up nozzle and bed, and "move material" to test the feeder? Good luck.
  2. geert_2

    Filaments dissolves in what ?

    Maybe you need to make a distinction between "chemically melt" (dissolve) and thermally melt (high temp)? Most epoxies I have used are very exothermic reactions: they get extremely hot. So, these will melt a PLA mould for sure. I don't know about PU, but I believe it is also exothermic? So you need to search for slow-curing, low-exothermic versions (usually they do exist). Added benefit is that these shrink less than fast-curing But PU and epoxies may also bond very strongly to PLA, so you need a good separator: multiple layers of silicone or PTFE-separator spray, or other. And even then... Try it on small test pieces first. As far as I know, PU or epoxies will not chemically dissolve PLA. Silicone depends: there are sticky silicones like the sanitary versions. And there are non-stick versions for mould-making. None of those that I used caused real warm-up, so I guess these should be temp-safe. Also, silicones are chemically quite inert, so they should not dissolve anything. Another option would be to use the PLA to make a positive model, and then use silicone to make the mould from that PLA-model. And maybe make a hard shell in PLA too around the mould, to keep the silicone in place, so it does not deform (may happen if you use very flexible silicone). In Youtube, search for: mould making and casting. There are lots of good tutorials.
  3. geert_2

    Minimum Gap Distance

    For this sort of things in PLA and PET (I haven't used nylon yet), I usually take 0.3 to 0.5mm gaps. As gr5 says above the bottom layer sometimes does fuse a little bit, due to that layer being squeezed well into the glass and spreading out. But it is easy to cut. Further there are occasional strings, also easy to break. I would suggest you design a couple of small test models with variations in gaps, and print them at different speeds and temps in the range you usually use. The gap in the keyring here is 0.5mm. For size-estimations: the ribs on the pink support block are 0.5mm wide, with 1mm gaps. The pink block itself is 5mm wide. Vertical gaps between the pink support block and the overhanging yellow part are 0.3mm: they fuse slightly, but can be wiggled out. The cyan part is ca. 50mm long and 25mm wide. Gives you an idea.
  4. geert_2

    Who can print this building for me?

    Yes indeed: Z-Corp, that was it back then, thanks. The toothbrushes and gears printed in stone that I saw didn't feel right, but brick- and concrete buildings did. :-)
  5. geert_2

    Cleaning a clogged nozzle and broken filament

    If the above things would not work, and you have a screw extractor for removing broken screws, maybe that could be an option too? But I would suggest you watch a couple of tutorials on screw extraction first, on Youtube. Or maybe a wood screw might also work? First drill a small hole in the center of the filament, at *very* low speed so the filament does not melt. And then insert the wood screw and pull?
  6. geert_2

    Who can print this building for me?

    If you want to print this in full color, then you need (someone with) a gypsum full color 3D-printer. But I don't remember the brand name of these printers. They use gypsum powder that is glued together, and sprayed with inkjet colors. So you can have all colors you want, although a bit dull. The gypsum gives the walls a stone-like texture and feeling, and a stone-like weight of course. After all, gypsum is a sort of stone. So these printers were often used for architecture. I have seen several buildings and other models in this material. It is not good for technical parts (too hard, too brittle, too rough texture), but it is excellent for models of buildings indeed. Maybe companies like Protolabs, Materialise, Melotte and Shapeways can do it? I don't know their current range of printers?
  7. geert_2

    Tough PLA Adhesive

    Ah okay, thanks for the clarification. I haven't seen or felt Tough PLA in life yet, so I was just guessing that it would be a bit more flexible. So then I would definitely give cyanoacrylate a try, but still on a test piece first. I have good success with both Locktite standard cyanoacrylates, and the versions for plastics.
  8. geert_2

    Tough PLA Adhesive

    For *standard* PLA I have good results with cyanoacrylate glue. Never had any problems after hundreds of glued models. But I never used tough PLA. Maybe you could try it on a few small test pieces? Don't waste a nice model on tests, just design and print a couple of small test plates. I don't know how well cyanoacrylate will handle flexing models, but if the area that is bonded does not flex, or not too much, I think chances are good.
  9. geert_2

    U2 and underextrusion problem

    Mine typically last reasonably long, several hundreds of hours. But if you print at hotter temps or higher speeds (=more pressure), they might wear out faster. If you have a microscope or good magnifying glass, you could look into it from the bottom and see if the inside is deformed? Or maybe it was a bad batch?
  10. geert_2

    3D Printer not printing properly

    SketchUp is not suitable for 3D-printing: it does not produce "solid" models, but a sort of "empty cardboard models" with gaps in the seams. Like paper models you glue together. SketchUp was only ment for visual representations of buildings, not for 3D-printing. It will drive you nuts, and you will waste huge amounts of time. I would recommend you switch to another free program, such as DesignSpark Mechanical (for geometric models), or Fusion360. Or even Blender, if you need organic models, although Blender has a very high learning curve. There are lots of good demos and manuals in Youtube. Watch a couple and see which interface and workflow appeals to you, and try that. It will cost you some time to learn, but you will soon earn that back.
  11. If your printer runs out of filament, and if it does not have an "end of filament" sensor and switch off automatically, then the remaining filament in the nozzle may burn and clog the nozzle. Because it will be sitting there at hot temperature for maybe hours. Normally Cura lists how many meters you need. Based on this, and on the weight of the spool (minus the empty spool), you could calculate how much is still left on the spool.
  12. geert_2

    PVA filament

    Do you put that cut-off piece in a drybox too while printing? Or if left hanging in the open air, doesn't it cause problems in long prints (like more than a day)?
  13. Apart from all printing problems: does that model need to survive mechanical loads, after the wood stick is inserted? If yes, you would need to make the walls much thicker and stronger. Now they will break at the slightest bending of the sticks, due to the large lever. If purely decorative, it might be okay of course. And indeed, as said above, I would print this with the backside on the glass, and the opening on top. Then there is no top layer, thus no problem. For best layer adhesion, print slow and rather hot. If printed in PLA, layer adhesion should not be a problem (I never had any troubles). If printed in PET, switch off cooling fans.
  14. Maybe try this method for overhangs? In CAD design a custom support structure into the model, and optimise it for ease of removal. In this example, all bridge pilars and plates are 1mm thick. Ribs on top of the supports are 0.5mm wide, with 1mm gaps. Gap between ribs and underside is 0.2 or 0.3mm (don't remember exactly, I use both). Horizontal connection strands are 0.5mm wide and 0.2mm high (=2 layers of 0.1mm). Long overhang is 35mm or so. Print cool and slow. In my designs, this is *very easy* to remove with a sharp cutter knife or scalpel. The concept is based on an idea of another user (smartavionics if I remember well?) who was developing alternate supports for use in Cura. Maybe you could get this done with more advanced settings in Cura too, but I am not using the latest version, so I can't tell about that.
  15. geert_2

    U2 and underextrusion problem

    I would suggest you disconnect the bowden tube at both ends, and then: - Check the tube is not mounted the wrong way around: the wider opening should be at the feeder. - Manually heat the nozzle to print temp, and manually insert a piece of filament straight into the nozzle, and extrude: does this go smooth, without too much resistance? To make sure the nozzle is clean, and temp is correct. - Manually push some filament through the bowden tube, while still disconnected at both ends: does that go smooth without too much resistance? - Then connect the tube again at the nozzle, and feed manually from the back through the tube, and extrude (heat nozzle). Does this go smooth? - With the bowden tube still disconnected at the feeder, feeding a piece of filament, and pull on it to see if it easily slips? For example if the internals of the feeder would not apply enough pressure anymore due to wear? - Some more tests along this line? The idea is to *separately* test all parts of the traject. Probably you have done these already, but maybe you overlooked something? Or maybe something has deteriorated recently? I found that it is often a combination of things that causes underextrusion in my UM2: - Most important: too tightly wound spools, near the end, especially of old PLA that has become very hard: this causes extreme resistance against unwinding, acting like a strong spring, and it causes very high friction in both the bowden tube and in the teflon coupler and nozzle. My solution here is to manually unwind a bit of filament and wind it in the opposite direction around a skater wheel (diameter 7cm). Then let it roll up on the spool again, but now it has a bending radius of ca. 30...50cm, the same as the bowden tube: this causes no more friction. This alone prevents 95% of underextrusion problems for me. - Deformed teflon coupler after a few 100 hours of use. - Kinks or sharp bends in the filament, so it has difficulty passing through the feeder and tube. - Rare, but has happened: dust picked up by the filament due to static charge, and pulled into the nozzle, causing partial clogs.
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