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geert_2

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  1. On a single-nozzle printer, another option might be to cut out the drawing from the base, all the way down to the bottom. So you have two separte models: the base, and the drawing. Print both in separate jobs. And assemble and glue both together. You will need to add quite a bit of tolerances, test, and post-process each part, to get the thin parts into the base. And it won't look very smooth probably. But it should be doable.
  2. This method is new to me, but it could obviously have great potential. How well does NGEN bond to the PLA, and how well is it removable? And the other way round, PLA to NGEN? Does this also work for PET, CPE, etc.?
  3. Most bottles for chemical products are made from PE, both HDPE and LDPE, or PP, so these have a reasonable chemical resistance. For use on the ground, maybe this could be an option, if they meet your strength-requirements? However, for use in airplanes, I doubt if they meet the temperature range? Especially PP might become very brittle when well below freezing temperatures. Also, they degrade quite fast in strong UV-light, so not very suitable for outside applications, especially not at 30000ft. Impact-resistance of PP is lower than PE, this could also be a factor. I ha
  4. As gr5 said, design the supports in CAD. I almost always do this too, to have full control. I design features into them so that I can get in with scalpels, hooks, pliers, etc...., to easily remove the supports. Often, I also let them begin from the model, so they don't go all the way down, and don't damage underlying areas. Thus "free hanging supports", sort of. Here a few of my classic examples and ideas. Do test the concepts on a *small test model* that has your typical problem areas, before doing it on a large model that takes days to print.
  5. I haven't printed with TPU yet, so no personal experience about its characteristics. Maybe set more retraction, or make sure you did not accidentally switch retraction off in the slicer? If "nothing else makes a difference", then disabled retraction might be the reason? Just guessing...
  6. A question: if you don't mind the seam, then why not just print two walls in normal non-vase mode? I don't see the point of a vase mode that creates seams?
  7. Annealing does not just shrink the model by 5%: it shrinks it in X- and Y-size, but it gets thicker in Z-size, and it severely warps due to the relaxation of built-in stresses. Better use filament that can handle the required temperatures from the beginning. And even then, the result is only a poor less than 10°C better temp-resistance for PLA: still not usable in a car, it will still deform in a mild spring sun. I tried annealing in different ways: by putting a fridge box on top of the model, and keep the build-plate hot (60...70°C for PLA). And in my well-controlled lab-oven.
  8. The cause is filament leaking from the nozzle while traveling through the air, due to the pressure in the nozzle not immediately dropping to zero. Especially with flexible, compressible filament. This leaking causes a sort of "insect antennas": the drop on the nozzle is deposited on the edge of the next wall the nozzle encounters. And then on the next layer, it is deposited on the previous drop, and so on, creating these antennas. However, you have a peculiar form of it. Rubbery materials (when molten) like PET also have this tendency. Maybe print still slower, cooler a
  9. Something I just thought about: depending on the job, and if you would only need 2 color bands, maybe it might also be possible to do the coloring trick after printing? Then you can adjust the height of the color bands by dipping it deeper into the water? I think with pre-colored spools the outcome is always going to be a bit unpredictable, and variations in surface area are going to cause variations in color band height. @kmanstudios: I have no experience with food colors myself, but a friend uses them a lot for cupcakes. But they are not left long enough to fade... :-)
  10. I was going to say this, but you were first. :-) These models came out very well. On Youtube I have also seen videos on which colors/pigments to use, and the whole coloring procedure. If I remember well, some people used food-colors.
  11. Forgot to say: due to the dissolving-effect of the solvent, the outer layer of the parts gets soft for a while. So that will leave fingerprints, and it may warp the whole part if it is thin. Also, if you print with little infill, it may evaporate the solvent inwards into the hollows, where it keeps working. I found that a mould I printed with 25% infill and of which I smoothed the inside (=where the cast comes), began to warp slightly after one month. I think that might be a result of the dichloromethane-solvent, because it never happened in similar unsmoothed parts in the same conditions (=ro
  12. It might also be a good idea to search on internet for demo-videos. Then you get an idea of how smooth the extruded sausage is, and if it fits your application. Most models that I saw gave a quite irregular extrusion, or maybe seemed irregular due to our hands moving irregularly? It would work very well for creating trees in miniature railroad landscapes, but not for smooth geometric objects.
  13. At least for prototyping, I would begin with classic materials like PET or even PLA. But do some smoothing on their surface to reduce layer lines, so dirt and bateria have less grip. These do withstand desinfecting alcohol. For smoothing, have a look at the thread I did some time ago, with lots of pictures of the result. Search for: PLA and PET smoothing with dichloromethane. Chloroforme should also work, but I haven't tried that (too much hassle, requires special permissions here). Be aware that after smoothing, the parts will breath-out that chemical for several hours
  14. I just read this now. An option might be to print it in nylon, but a bit too small, and then using a vice press it on the brass element with brute force? So it will seal well and won't fall off? Nylon may be able to handle this brute force.
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