Jump to content

toilet-ovule-add

Member
  • Content Count

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About toilet-ovule-add

  • Birthday 07/14/1969

Personal Information

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. So have still no reason why they abandoned the aluminium build-plates except the statement that it did not satisfy the companies standards. I bought a custom PEI coated aluminium plate from clever3d.de and this is really working well. Object (PLA/PVA en TPU) stick perfectly while printing without any preparation for the plate. When cooled down, the object can be taken of the plate without any noticeable force. No warping 😀.
  2. Hi, I recently bought an aluminium PEI coated printing bed from clever3d. Since i am changing from a glass printing bed to the PEI bed i noticed the specified printing bed in Cura. I tried to find any configuration in Cura where i could add a printing bed type with a specific configuration (e.g. temperature) for specific materials. Is it possible to specify a custom printing bed in Cura with it's own dedicated settings or is the only available printing bed "glass"?
  3. Ok, Tried the glue stick the past 24 hours. To get a smooth surface i dissolved the glue with some drops of water to spread the glue evenly. After printing the object came of easily. There was some warping on the edges and PLA did not bond perfectly everywhere, e.g. at the lower end of the ' ä ' and at some places in the WiFi symbol. Probably due to the fact that the glue was not spread evenly? Also you can clearly see the water pattern at the surface. So will try the salt method next to see if it makes a difference.
  4. Why should the glass not be clean enough? Badly cleaned glass prevents proper bonding, i got the opposite result. It seems that Tough PLA sticks better than normal PLA and as good as ABS. With 'normal' PLA the designs do come off easily. Always clean the glass plate with some water and ammonia, with constant results. Also used a PVA raft many times, but to get the smoothest surface on one side of the print decided this time to print straight on the glass. Will retry the print now with some glue and a damp cloth to distribute the glue evenly.
  5. Hmmmmm.... It was impossible to remove the residue, due to the fact there was no residue on the plate. Seemed that the tough PLA was stronger than the glass. The residue was on the print and not on the glass. Glass residue... The glass plate chipped, another lesson learned. Tough PLA is almost as strong as ABS and the same rule seems to apply here. Will use the other side of the glass and try again with a thin layer of glue. Also see thread;
  6. To get a smoother surface on a printed object i changed the initial layer height and flow when printing the shown lid of a small box. After printing i removed the glass plate and inspected the lid's top layer, and it was perfectly smooth. The lid was sticking like glue, so cooled the glass plate to shrink the glass to cause some tension between the printed object and the glass plate. This worked perfect, the printed lid came loos, but kept stinking on one place, and it seemed if ice-crystals were formed at that location. After waiting 30 mins to get the temperature change back to room temperature the crystals were still there and the printed lid was still sticking like glue at a small part of the object. After applying some force it came loose, but with some damage. A transparant residue (PLA?) remained on the glass plate where the printed lid was damaged. The damaged part of the printed lid was also slightly thicker than the remaining smooth surface. Can anyone tell what that residue can be ? Are there better ways to remove a tough PLA printed object ? Damaged printed part and residue on glassplate Hard to see on the picture, but lower printed lid is much smoother the upper initial printed lid. Cheers, Peter Extra Fine Tradfri Lid.curaprofile
  7. And it came out perfect now. No elephant foot and lifting corners, (almost) perfect. Additionally i keept the door of the closet the printer stands in slightly opened to lower the environment temperature. Thx for all the replies!
  8. Ok, checked it again to be sure, z-axis is clean and slightly greased, all belts have the correct tension (on both sides). I do not get this. Which dimensions are you referring at, the dimensions of the printed model ? I am now running a new test print with a lowered build plate temperature (55c) and a temperature of 60c for the initial layer. A PVA raft is printed to see if this together prevents the elephant foot and retraction from the build plate at the corners of the model. So far so good...
  9. The upper surface was indeed the side against the build plate. There are two points where it flairs out, at the build plate side and on the other side of the main plate. The legs/feet are straight. I currently use Cura 3.5.1. I have never printed this object with an other version of Cura, it is my first concept print. I used the standard 'Extra Fine' profile. Yup, also issues with any of these would affect not only the first and last layer. Yes more people are suggesting it, but the print sticks fine, only the corners seem to retract/melt from the build plate. Sorry, do not understand this. What should i measure ? It is a rectangle shaped box, where the retraction occurs on all four corners.
  10. I always cleaned my glass with a drop of water and and some drops of ammonia. Rub this out with a paper towel till you feel a lot of resistance and the plate is dry. Ammonia removes fat much better than alcohol. Never have had the elephant foot issue and the flow on the top layer. See the attached photo of the frame which is printed in the orientation as shown. Printed about 10 of these frames successfully with the same printer and enclosure. Will try the horizontal expansion setting next time, and see if this will help.
  11. Smithy, Thanks for your reply. As mentioned i use the cura default settings and have printed directly on glass and on a raft (PVA), so bed temperature is indeed 60 degrees. Never use(d) glue and have never had the need for it. The whole model sticks like glue (no pun intended) on the bed, only the corners of the object seem to pull up or melt. The printer is placed in a cabinet with moisture absorbers so no issue with cold airflows. If printing in a fully enclosed environment is not a good idea, then why did ultimaker sell enclosures in the past ? The enclosure is about 10 times the size of the printer so the environment gets warm, but not hot. If the outside temperature issue the whole model would have been affected. De layers between the lowest and highest are perfectly straight. Cheers, Peter
  12. Hi, I am having some issues with PLA which i have not had before. When printing with the UM3 and Cura default settings (Fine) the prints on the build plate side and top layer seem to flow out a bit. Also the corners of the object are pulling up. Printed object is sticking well on the build-plate. Is this related to the build plate temperature? Making a raft (PVA) or skirt (PVA) do not solve the issue. Any tips or hints ?
  13. Although the PVA was dry and most of the time the flow from the printhead seemed ok, it did some hot and cold pulls using PLA. After some time there came small black parts came free. Ran it multiple times till it couldn't get anymore out. See if this helps.
  14. Would be worth wile trying out if only the PVA would irregularly stick to the plate. But it also sometimes does not stick to other PVA layers. Will try out to make a PVA raft the next attempt and see if i get a more stable PVA support structure then.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!