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Dragon2781

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  • Field of Work
    Other
  • Country
    DE
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3

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  1. @Swissengineer I tested your method but there is a problem. After printing the 'Dummy Object' with the empty Nozzle the Printhead comes back to the switch-position and would make an other picture. So I would have two pictures of every layer.... 😐 It would be very anoying to delete every second picture on the memory card...
  2. Link 'Make Anything' mentioned in his video, there is a Search and Replace function in the Post Processing Script menu. I have no idea about Gcode. Please can somebody tell me what I need to search for (move Z) and what line I have to add (move X and Y to..)?
  3. Hi Swissengineer, that would be a 'quick and dirty' solution. I don't want to see a PrimeTower and a second Dummy-object in my timelapse video. I need a better solution for that. Isn't it possibleto write a script or plugin for that? Move Head to X= [ ] and Y= [ ] after every layer.
  4. Hi there! I just saw this video from 'Make Anything' about making timelapse videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Is10iN43UjI I need help finding a way to move the Printhead of my UM3 to a specific location after each layer to physically press the button of a remote shutter. Is there a way to do that by the 'Post processing > Modify G-code' in Cura? Please help :)
  5. Dragon2781

    Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

    No, do you think they are able to help? You mean the Admins of this forum? The Tolerance Test from Makers Muse was really bad. I was only able to unlock the 0.5mm and 0.4mm wheel using force to crack it. I think my first layer is to sticky, the bottom of the print was molten togetter completely. For the first layer I now reduced the temp from 205 to 200, raised the speed from 20 to 30 and set the fan to 50%. Maybe it is only the first layer holding everything together.... I hope...
  6. Dragon2781

    Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

    Thank you for all the hopes and wishes but I have the same issue with the other AA Core. I want to print a tolerance test and see if this works.
  7. Dragon2781

    Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

    @Brulti good idea!
  8. Dragon2781

    Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

    Sadly no changes with lower temp. Even with 190°C
  9. Dragon2781

    Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

    Sorry, I'm glad that you try to help me. Posting the picture instead of typing the letters should not offend you. BTW on my monitor the written text is smaller than the text in the picture after I opend it.
  10. Dragon2781

    Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

    ? ...when you click the picture and it opens in a new window, you can click it again to zoom in. OK I will try with 195 when I'm home. THX
  11. Dragon2781

    Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

    OK, forget the stringing, I don't want to get any slower speeds. But what can I do about that? I think that's the same problem as the bulgy corners on the Cube.
  12. Dragon2781

    Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

    PRINT #04 More and faster Retraction, Lower Flow I tried to compensate the stringing but.... what else can I do about the stringing? The V3 Test looks ok to me except the tollerance test (the 6 gaps below the 'V3' font) They are molten together. This is not acceptable in my opinion and I think this is the same issue as the bulgy corners on the Cube. Please can anybody tell me what I can do about that?
  13. Dragon2781

    Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

    When the Z moved to far, what can I do? Can you please give me a link to your mod? My accelleration is at 800 for infill, 200 for outer walls and 100 for inner walls and I still have this problem. Can I do something else? Should I somhow tension the belts? I'm new to 3D printing and I have no idea how tight they should be. So I can not say if they are tight enough.
  14. Dragon2781

    Settings - starting from scratch with the UM3

    Are this settings correct?
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