mkaj2019
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Posts posted by mkaj2019
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The Cable Clamp holding the Polybox tubing does not work. It slowly deformes the tubing until the filament is clamped too. I am using a tubing holder now that I made. If you are interested, I will upload it soon and post the thingiverse link here. The holder can be simply clamped into one of the slotted holes below the extruder.
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Thanks to your recommendation I have also bought a Polybox now. Because I want to use it mainly for 2,6kg spools I had to modify the box. The box is not high enough for xxl spools other than the 3kg spools from Polymaker. Fortunatly there are a lot of box extensions already on thingiverse.
I also printed conical tubes for the rollers. My hope is that this will always keep the spool centered.
I fixed the Polybox tubing to the S5 with a cable clamp zip tie. Otherwise the extruder pulls the tubing inside and gets jammed during printing.
How did you fix your tubings to the S5?
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My S5 started to make some unpleasant noises when the print bed moved up and down. The issue was in my case that the white plastic cover at the back of the print bed carriage has deformed over time. One of the through holes in the plastic cover moved and was now touching the z-axis rod.
This could also happen to your S5 printer over time. I will try to explain what I did to solve the issue. I also took some pictures from the parts inside with some comments.
Before the repair:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nt96xhdoyvbb1ex/Before_repair.mp4?dl=0
After the repair:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/21xoipf9ls8r62b/After_repair.mp4?dl=0
To remove the squeaking, I needed to drill the through hole of the plastic cover bigger:
- Remove everything from the backside of the printer (Spool holder and Filament Spools from the back, Cables…)
- Lay the printer with the backside on the table
- Remove the bottom panel of the printer (bottom panel is mounted with tamper proof torx M3 Torx screws) and break the warranty void seal (mine was already broken although I have never tried to open the printer before). I am also very surprised that the bottom panel is cheap plastic not metal and has big holes for the speaker. I highly doubt that this is according to instrument safety regulations.
- Unplug the speaker from control pcb (Wow, that is one big speaker for a 3D Printer, can be maybe used in the future for spotify music playback)
- From the bottom you can see two stainless steel sheet metal plates holding the z-axis rods in place. You have to remove everything in front of it so that you are able to pull out the rods through the bottom. In my case it was only the outlet fan on the left side. The fan close to the control pcb sucks the air in and the fan close to the power supply blows the air out
- Once you have completely removed the z rod you can turn the printer back on its feet. You have now access to the plastic cover through hole.
- I carefully used a step drill to enlarge the hole diameter. There is some kind of dirt gasket underneath the cover to prevent dirt coming into the linear bearings, so be careful not to drill into the gasket or the linear bearing. (The hole on the picture looks a bit horrible because I tried to use a scalpel before to cut away some material, which did not work.) I would not recommend a normal drill for steel. It will suddenly dig into the plastic and most probably damage the linear bearing.
- Then I removed all plastic chips with tweezers out of the linear bearing and blew it out.
- I applied some new oil on the bearing
- Put the printer on the backside again and carefully insert steel rod again. It must move freely through the linear bearing otherwise you have not removed all chippings.
- That’s it. I mounted everything back together (Make sure that the fans are oriented correctly, and the speaker is connected again, and the job was done.
Some interesting side notes:
- Good Meanwell PSU USP-500-24 (Scheduled for obsolescence and will be discontinued by the manufacturer). Will most propably be replaced soon by something else.
- Great Trinamics TMC 2130-LA Stepper drivers (Heat from the drivers and the whole pcb is transferred by a thick silicon pad from the pcb backside to the aluminium dibond panel)
- Motion Control is still done by the classic 8-Bit ATMega2560
- The rest of the firmware is running on this Olimex A20 OLinuXino Lime 2 board
- SparkLAN WUBA-171GN WIFI Module
- Great MOSFET for the 24V heatbed. Very low on-resistance of 0.4 mOhm
- Not that great: Power Cables for the heatbed are heavy stranded cables, not very flexible. I wonder how long they will last before they break. (Good thing: the WAGO Connectors for the heatbed wires on the PCB are great (I think they are rated for 30A or something)
- Some components are not populated on the PCB. Which could be a hint for future 3D-Printer design plans e.g. a second heater connection (Maybe the next printer will have active heating for the build chamber. There is also a connector for another temperature sensor)
- Not so nice: Some cables are not assembled that great e.g. the heat shrink tubing was pulled off on one fan cable. The soldered cable shielding was exposed.
- And The USB cable for the wifi module is too short and under tension.
Overall, I can say: Very good, and high-quality electronic components like the above-mentioned parts but also e.g. the SUNON Fans or the MOONS Stepper Motor. The assembly is good but could be a little bit better. The mechanical design could be definitely better and is a direct result of excessive cost-cutting measures. I am confused that the electronics where not affected by these measures.
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In unserer Firma haben wir alle Arm-Türgriffe (ca. 40 Stück) aus Tough-PLA am Ultimaker S5 gedruckt und an diversen Flur-Türklinken montiert. Stabil sind sie auf jeden Fall. Sie helfen aber auch nicht zu 100%, wenn sie nicht regelmäßig desinfiziert werden.
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On 3/20/2020 at 10:09 AM, Pixelmaker said:
Danke schonmal für deine Antwort.
Ich hatte Kreppband versucht. Das hat leider gar nichts gebracht. Meinst du Paketklebeband könnte besser funktionieren?
Dieser PP Klebestift hört sich ja spannend an. Bekommt man den dann auch wieder problemlos vom Druckbett runter?
Paketklebeband verwende ich zuhause z.B. bei TPE. Das Transparente ist aus PP und sollte für sehr gute Haftung sorgen. Überprüft habe ich das leider noch nicht, da ich zuhause kein PP drucke.
Das MAGIGOO PP lässt sich feucht mit einem Topfreiniger-Schwamm wieder entfernen.
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An der Arbeit drucke ich viel mit PP, dafür nutze ich immer den Magigoo PP Klebestift. Schon mal Paketklebeband probiert?
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Because each line of printed filament is not prefectly rectangular but more a rectangular with round edges, the line width is reduced to really fill the gap between lines. The main issue is not the smaller line width but the auto leveling height of the first layer. The distance is too close for all materials. There is a z offset plugin in the cura marketplace. Try using this and increase the gap size.
The waves that you have at your first layer are typical for overextrusion with PETG. When I see them printing with PETG I always change the z offset.
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Wie vermutet, ist das Problem schon im 3D-Modell vorhanden. Hier zusehen im 3D-Builder
Ich habe das Teil im 3D-Builder (übrigens kostenlos) jetzt einmal reparieren lassen, siehe Stl im Anhang.
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Schmeiß es doch testweise einmal in einen anderen Slicer. Dann dürftest du ja sehen ob es Cura oder das Modell ist.
P. S. Lade doch einmal dein Teil hier hoch. Dann können wir es probieren woran es klemmt.
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"Print thin walls" aktiviert?
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Ist das Modell irgendwie defekt? Hast du mal im 3D-Builder von Microsoft geschaut. Der versucht das zu reparieren sollte es defekt sein.
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Also, ich habe mit der 4.3 unglaublich viele ärgerliche Bugs erlebt und war froh als endlich eine neue Version herauskam.
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Great mod! How far could you reduce the retraction distance with your mod?
QuoteThe S5 levels pretty close to the bed, making every print fail at normal flow rates.
Have you tried using the the Z offset Plugin from the Cura Marketplace.
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Using the external marketplace also does not work, I have tried that before. If I click on install it shows me that it was added to Cura. But the material is still missing in Cura. Do I need to connect Cura to the Ultimaker Cloud to get this working? I can't connect to the Ultimaker Cloud this is also blocked by the company firewall.
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Network logging is a little bit difficult. We have about 400 Employees at our headquarter. There is too much traffic, it would be like searching for a needle in a haystack.
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Hi Chris,
I am sorry to bother you again. My IT department has now whitelisted the link https://storage.googleapis.com/ultimaker-cura-packages but unfortunatly it still does not work. Still no pictures and still no download possible.
They also do not want to whitelist the whole https://storage.googleapis.com
Are there maybe more links needed for the whitelist?
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My IT department has now opened the connection to api.ultimaker.com but it still does not work.
I can see the marketplace now but the icons/pictures are not loading and if I click on the a material download nothing is happening. Could you please tell me also the links for icons/images and the connection for the download buttons?
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Hallo Chiara,
Ich kenne den Fehler noch nicht bei meinem S5. Hast du mal nach der Anleitung einen Logfile erstellt. Vielleicht ist der ja aussagekräftiger?
Lade dein Logfile doch mal hier hoch und vielleicht auch ein paar Bilder von den Anschlüssen hinten am Druckkopf und von dem Rundstecker der hinten am Gerät angeschlossen ist. Vielleicht gibt es da irgendwo einen kabelbruch, Wackelkontakt oder umgebogenen Steckerpin.
Gruß
Markus
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Thank you very much, Chris!
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My Ultimaker Cura Marketplace is blocked by our company firewall.
Our companies IT department told me that they will add a proxy exception, if they have the "in software web address of the market place" respectively some connection information.
Can somebody maybe provide me with this info?
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20 hours ago, DrCeeVee said:
Markus, it seems you are quite comfortable in swapping, replacing, and adjusting the mechanical parts of your Ultimaker S5, which is a good thing.
I'm also generally very comfortable with such things, but I'm a newbie when it comes to Ultimaker printers (and 3D printers in general). I want to ask you if you have noticed any side-effects in print quality and overall behaviour of the printer after you've messed with its mechanics. I mean this in a good way, I also want to be brave enough to mess with it, but its price and my lack of experience in owning and using such an expensive printer prevents me (for now) from touching it in this way.
Have you ever caused any irreparable damage or permanent degradation in the print quality of the printer? Also, have you noticed any improvement in print quality as a result of your actions? Generally, is the S5 robust enough to be able to take a beating when it comes to its mechanics (belts, rods, bushings, lead screw, etc.)?
Thanks for any insights, just trying to get a feel of how robust and serviceable the S5 mechanics are...
I did not damaged parts so far and I do not try to improve the print quality by modding the mechanics (only with the slicer). My main focus is to improve the ease of use and keep the printer at a stable printing qualitity level.
I am actually not messing that much with my S5, only if I have to or if I am not pleased with the quality of some printer parts. In private I have build my own 3D printer, that's why I have a little experience with FDM printers. I have chosen the ultimaker for my company because I did not want to tinker around much. The possibilities for tinkering are very limited with the S5 Design (mechanics are simplistic and very cost optimized, firmware is not open, not supported by all slicer programs).
I would always recommend to buy a different printer (just compare the mechanics e.g. to a Raise3D Pro2) but still I would buy the S5 again. This sounds confusing but let me try to explain. Other printers are way more sturdy and robust but for my application I still need the S5. I constantly swap print cores because the prototypes I print vary always in size and level of detail. Swapping the S5 print cores is very easy and reliable . I think no other printer manufacturer has such an easy system to change nozzle sizes and nozzle types.
If my company would give me a budget for two printers I would not hesitate and buy two Raise3D and use each printer with a different nozzle. Because it was already hard to fight for one printer, the S5 was the best choice due to its versatility in this price range.
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18 hours ago, Torgeir said:
Never noted this one, interesting. Is this the X & Y axis on an UM5?
If so, is this a 8 mm shaft that is adapted to the old 6mm slide blocks? Right?
Yes it the S5 has 8mm and 10mm rods with 6mm ends.
QuoteI've also had problem with loose clamping of the 6mm shafts to the sliding blocks, however I used a peace of paper that cover about 270 deg. around the shaft where it is connected to the block. Done this on all 4 sliding block. Find a type of paper(right thickness) that make enough clamping, do not use to thick paper cause this may make your slider block crack..
Great idea, thanks for sharing this trick!
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I bought them on Aliexpress.
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I have received new sliding blocks from china for 8$/4 PCS. They make a good first impression. They are definitely made from a different plastic. It looks like PA and the original Ultimaker sliding blocks look more like POM. The quality overall is quite good. There are only some minor molding issues. Nothing that can't be quickly removed with an exacto knife.
I am still using the same bushing and belt tensioning spring so I cannot speak for the quality of these parts.
Right now I have only swapped the plastic parts and they fitt quite nicely.
S5 Mods/Upgrades/Improvements
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4544757