mkaj2019
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Posts posted by mkaj2019
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Do you guys know, if there is an option where cura does not stupidly puts support under bridges? It is so annoying to always add dozens of support blocker because the miniumum support xy distance, minimum support area etc are not helping at all.
This is always a problem if I need to support small surfaces but have larger surfaces that can be completely bridged. It takes me forever to manually fix the support if I have multiple parts on my S5 print surface.
Why are the support structures on the right so huge without supporting anything?
This is how I need it, and how I should be able to automatically generate it:
I can only get this result after carefully placing support blockers. An because the part has new iterations, with small changes all the time I have to start all over again and cannot use an old project.
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Entweder deine Drucktemps passen nicht zum Filament, was ich jetzt mal nicht vermute (trotzdem die Frage: Was ist das für Filament und wie heiß druckst du das?), oder du hast eine gecloggte Nozzle vom Printcore. Im Wartungs-Menü gibt es ein Menü zur Düsenreinigung. Mach das mal.
Wenn alles im Nachgang läuft solltest du mit einem Schlauchschneider das defekte Schlauchende abschneiden. (Falls nötig einen neuen Schlauch kaufen. Wenn der jetzt schon ein paar mal aus dem Fitting gerutsch ist dann ist das überhaupt nicht gut.
Normalerweise fräst der Extruder nur das Filament ab wenn die Nozzle gecloggt ist. Das gibt mir auch ein wenig das Gefühl, dass du den Extruder zu straff eingestellt hast. Die Mittelstellung ist vollkommen okay. Den Extruder straffer stellen behebt keine gecloggte Nozzle.
Es gibt viele Gründe für gecloggte nozzles z.B. wenn die Filamentspulen offen gelagert werden und dreckig oder staubig sind. Ich habe bei mir kleine Filter die das Filament vorm Extruder abwischen (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190118)
Weiterhin kann es sein das Reste in der Nozzle sind von einem Hochtemp. Filament mit dem du vorher gedruckt hast (PC oder PA). Auch da hilft die Druckkopfreinigung.
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13 hours ago, Digibike said:
Hi,
mal eine Frage zu Cura und Dual. Gibt es eigentlich in Cura auch die Möglichkeit, dass 2.te Objekt mit anderem Z-Offset zu drucken? Generell ist ja Z bei beiden Cores (UM3) gesetzt. Aber gibt es da in Cura selbst eine Möglichkeit, zu sagen, "gehe mir mit Z beim rechten Core 5 Hundertstel Richtung Druckbett gegenüber dem ermittelten Bedleveling"?
Gruß, Digibike
Mir ist da nichts bekannt. Das Offset Plugin macht den Offset ja leider bei beiden Düsen gleich.
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Hallo Alex, bist du sicher, dass du nicht überextrudierst? Ansonsten gibt es den Befehl "Horizontal Expansion" (Bei mir meistens auf -0.05). Besonders gut ist auch der neue "Hole Horizontal Expansion" mit dem man Löcher passend vergrößern kann.
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14 minutes ago, ahoeben said:
The current version of the Material Settings plugin will let you specify which settings you want to be able to change per material. Once the plugin is installed see Extensions -> Material Settings -> Configure Material Settings to select the settings you want to change per material, and then check the Print Settings tab in the Material preferences for the material of your choosing.
10 minutes ago, Smithy said:Thanks, but that should solve your profiles problem @mkaj2019 when you are able to "add" additional settings to a material profile.
Thank you guys, I have installed it now and will try it out!
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30 minutes ago, neute said:
Hi all,
since this topic is one that also gives me a lot of pain, I thought I'd share my thoughts.
Like @mkaj2019 I feel that I have to maintain a print profile for every arrangement of filaments, this gets a lot worse when I'm using my Toolchanger with 4 printheads instead of one of the Ultimakers with "only" 2. This seems to be the case because, as @Smithy mentions, the material profile really does not cover much, only temperatures and retraction settings. Want to use a certain PLA as support for PETG? Have to create (and maintain! since the profiles do not inherit, e.g. stay connected to the base profile) a new print profile for this combination.
A much better solution IMO is how it is handled in Prusaslicer/Superslicer/´(Slic3r). There is a clear separation between print settings, printer settings and filament settings, and they don't interfere with each other, which means that there are basically 3 types of profiles (but they are a lot easier to separate and don't always need to be changed all the time). Want to do a dual color print with both extruders? Choose a filament for each extruder, possibly the same print profile for both, don't touch the printer settings, boom - up and running in 5 minutes.Same for Cura? Select the filaments for each extruder, it will tell you "Not supported" and you have to go through the whole profile and change all the little settings that you've already changed a hundred times for each profile before (happens to me at least once a week).
And I hear you say, it won't work for the Ultimaker, since the profiles are very fine tuned and a lot of settings have to be changed for each filament aside from temperature and retraction settings. True, but Prusaslicer/Superslicer has override mechanisms, e.g. you can set up a print profile that works best for you (preferred layer height, infill, patterns, speeds etc.) and can still enter overrides for each filament, e.g. maximum speed and/or volumetric extrusion rate. The only thing that's missing IMO is the option to create profiles that inherit and stay connected, so that changes in the base profile get carried over to all dependent profiles.
I'd appreciate if the Cura developers would take the time to consider this proposition and gave some feedback.
(If I know why a certain solution is not possible or hard to implement, it's easier for me to live with it....)
Thank you!
Best, Niklas
Very good summary, nothing to add here from my side.
Yes, I did not mean the material profiles. I do not like them and I do not use them. They are in my oppinion completely useless, because way to many necessary settings are missing (like e.g. Flow rates, Expansion settings, material specific support settings... ) and the print profiles on the other hand have everything included.
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1 hour ago, nallath said:
This is not the case. So i can also not understand that 😉
You can.
Where should this be possible? It does not work in the print settings. See my video:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4at0eyrnc4c71tq/video.mp4?dl=0
The custom profiles are always for two extruders. It is not possible to have seperate custom profiles for 1st and 2nd extruder.
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On 9/11/2021 at 11:33 AM, dubbeltrubbel said:
I'm a heavy user of Cura and has been for many years.
The one thing that has ALWAYS been an issue for me ( and I know others ) is the failing in transferring profiles between versions.
I just installed 4.11 and only got some of my profiles added automatically. Spent the entire morning trying all kinds of stuff but had to settle on export/importing everything manually.
I've got a bunch of folders left from earlier versions of cura that I have no idea if any of them contain some important profile or not? Can I delete them or not, who knows.
It would be so easy if custom profiles were synced automatically.
The whole manage profile function inside cura is outdated as well and would really benefit from getting a remake. Would love to get some more control of the profile handling. Export/import multiple at once f.e.
When doing this by manually transferring files, it's easy to get all kinds of errors.
Please Ultimaker, why are we stuck with this poor profile management in an otherwise awesome slicer.
This is by far #1 on the Wishlist
I hope you guys will read this feedback and make use of it.
Thanks for an otherwise great slicer
I completely feal you. Working with the filament profiles is so damn annoying and difficult compared to e.g. Prusaslicer. I also still cannot understand why there is only one filament profile for a dual extruder. And why I cannot select my filament profile for each printcore instead. E.g. I have different profiles for BASF Pro 1 PLA, depending if the second extruder is using Breakaway or a different colored PLA. Why??? It's so unpractical and confusing!
I have updated my Cura last week at work for a long time (could not afford any downtime, the s5 is printing every workday without a break), now half of my profiles are gone and for the rest of the profiles I have to always confirm on my S5 display to ignore the issue of old profiles before the print even starts. That's really annoying, because I do not have the printer in the same room. I always have to jump to the printer and hit 'ignore' on the display. How do I get rid of this, do you guys have an idea?
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Druckst du auf der richtigen Seite der Glasplatte. Die mit dem gelben Dreieck Symbol. Die Seiten der Glasplatte haben unterschiedliche Eigenschaften von der Haftung. Hat Ultimaker mal irgendwann festgestellt.
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Die Fläche die Supportet werden soll ist einfach viel zu klein, daher spackt er rum.
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14 hours ago, CarloK said:
Another of my favourite improvements for the Ultimaker printers is to extend the camera angle by adding a mirror to the opposite wall. The cheap IKEA mirror works great.
Really clever soultion!
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The view is even worse if you use a prime blob for the second extruder. Then you have always a perfect prime blob completely blocking the the view.
Have a look at my camera mod. If your instrument is out of warranty or you don't care like me, you can connect an external camera to the ultimaker board instead of the internal one:
Be aware that the power supply is an open frame version and not shielded and if you do not unplug the printer before taking it apart you could kill yourself.
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Wenn du mit Creo Paramtric schon gearbeitet hast, ist Onshape schon recht ähnlich. Ansonsten gibts noch Fusion360, Designspark Mechanical, FreeCAD (das ist aber recht anwenderfeindlich). Manche basteln auch einfache Sachen in TinkerCAD
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On 7/27/2021 at 8:43 PM, JohnInOttawa said:
Great tips!
Has anyone tried to print the print core frame yet? I have refurbished an old core that needed a new nozzle, but its frame was also warped. Debating about options there.
Thanks again!
John
I haven't tried it. How warped is this frame, can you bend it back?
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On 9/19/2017 at 1:33 PM, SandervG said:
Agreed. You wouldn't want to take it apart, and getting a whole new print core only sounds like a better deal, no?
Shame on you for this comment. It is wrong in so many ways (economically, environmentally, customer-friendlines,...). But yes, you can also behave like apple and let the customers pay for your bad design choices.
@ludo06
Thanks for the upload. I have already 3 cracked tabs and replaced them with 3D printed ABS versions.
I have modified the original tab (see the attachments for the stl) to be more rigid with more material in the screw head area by switching to a countersunk screw hole. I have also removed the chamfer at the top for better printability.
If somebody wants to use it, you need to also order a M2.5x40 screw countersunk screw.
Tip: Print the tab with the 0.25 nozzle and use ABS. Dont use nylon or similar soft material. It is too soft and will bend under constant load from the spring.
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12 hours ago, Gero said:
This looks quite nice.
I was already thinking about something similar. My thought was about a nozzle wipe with every extruder switch rather than at the beginning because I have some oozing problems with 2 material prints...
Would you share this design of yours? I would like to make one with some sort of brass brush to clean the nozzles. This part would be great to start with since it seems to fit nicely next to the build platform.
I really would like to share it, but I cannot find it anymore 😅.
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On 7/20/2021 at 4:22 PM, Carbon said:
The thermometer inside the printer, how much difference is there compared to the Digital Factory readings?
I'm curious....
I cannot really say, i am still running my S5 with an old firmware 5.8.1 without these features. Because the printer is running everyday I cannot risk any downtime. Thats why I have not upgraded the printer for a long time (except for the bed leveling improvment firmware, which unfortunatly did not help at all).
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I have made some new modifications/updates to our S5:
1. We bought a top enclosure made by Accante. The quality is very poor and the edges of the PMMA plates have a lot of cracks from the laser cutting process. But it is still half the price of the Ultimaker air manager.
2. I removed the internal USB camera and replaced it with a ELP usb camera looking down from the top. I tried a few different ELP cameras. I think it depends on the 30FPS resolution of YUY2 encoding of the camera how high the resolution in cura is.
It does not matter if you buy a FullHD MPEG camera if the YUV2 resolution is only 640x480, you will get only 640x480 in cura. With a 170° Fisheye lens the view area is already very large and the whole build plate is always visible.
3. I have purchased a cheap air quality sensor on aliexpress to check some of the 3D printer emissions.
4. I have build a scraper using a hobby knife chisel blade to remove material blobs from the 2nd nozzle.
This was necessary especially with constantly oozing breakaway filament. The oozing is causing issues with the leveling heigth of the 2nd extruder at the beginning of a print. The algorithm for the autobed leveling is total garbage. It first heats up both nozzles. And while the first nozzle is mesh leveling the second nozzle is cooling down again. Then when it swaps to the 2nd nozzle for the quick 3 point leveling the 2nd nozzle is cold and a oozed material blob under the nozzle causes the algorithm to think that the nozzle is 1mm lower than it actually is. When the print is starting the breakaway nozzle is suddenly 1mm to high and the first layer for the support material fails.
The real fix for this issue would be to fix the algorithm and to leave the nozzles always cool while leveling. It is no problem to clean the nozzle before starting a print but it cannot be cleaned when the print head is moving.
More pictures:
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On 11/23/2020 at 7:09 PM, Gero said:
I am using the Ultimaker Nylon for almost 90% of my prints in the S3.
As I sell those printed parts to costumers, I needed a good quality and reliable bed adhesion.
So I am using the Filafarm flex solution.But the key for the right adhesion without warping and super easy removal is the bed temperature for me. 40°C is the sweet spot there. For small parts I add some Magigoo PA, but for most prints a clean bed is already enough.
With the bed temperature cura suggest for the material profile, I often get warping parts...I can confirm that. Higher bed temps then 60°C lead to a lot of warping
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I have also a spring steel sheet from Buildtak. I use it with a Magigoo PA Stick for my Nylon Parts. This works like a charm. The glass plate is completely damaged because of my nylon prints. The parts stuck so well that I ripped big glass chunks out of the surface.
With the plain spring steel sheet (no PEI Surface) from Buildtak it is extremely easy to remove the Nylon parts now.
BTW, I have also purchased a structured PEI coated spring steel from Energetic on Aliexpress (similar to PRUSA). They are great people and also build custom size sheets for you. The bottom side is also coated with PEI but with a smooth surface.
I send them a small sketch over chat and arranged the payment and a few weeks later I received the spring steel sheet for my S5.It costed me 30 bucks. A magnetic pad with 3M Adhesive tape was included, which I did not need. Compared to Buildtak the price is still great.
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Es gibt doch schwarzes HIPS z.B. von Formfutura, welches du dann in D-Limonene auflösen kannst. Dann gibt es noch spoolWorks Scaffold, das gibt es auch in dunkel und ist wasserlöslich.
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So this is still not fixed in the design, it seems. 🤔
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On 7/24/2018 at 9:40 AM, freesbee said:
...so if I may give you a suggestion, let IT personnel do their job and implement an easier way to set and protect a static IP in the firmware. Nothing wrong with the SSH and connman for me, but somebody with less linux experience could be in trouble and normally people dealing with design are not linux experts (nobody is questioning why you use connman instead of /etc/network/interfaces so please do not question why we prefer to have printers on static IPs outside the DHCP area).
Here the full guide for anybody who might need it:
1. on the printer panel enable developer mode (printer restart needed)
2. SSH to the printer (default credentials would be root/ultimaker)
3.$ connmanctl servicesand note the name of the interface that must be configured (remember: the machine has 2 network interfaces): from now on that will be the
<service>(no "<" or ">" needed, just the service/interface name which will look likeethernet_<MAC_ADDR>_cablefor the wired one, the other one I didn't have time to check )
4.$ connmanctl config <service> --ipv4 manual <IP address> <netmask> <gateway>
at this point the SSH connection will be broken because the printer switches immediately to the new IP so verify if everything went fine and
5. on the printer panel disable developer modejust in case you want to re-enable DHCP the command is:
$ connmanctl config <service> --ipv4 dhcp
Thank you very much for your great instruction! We have finally managed to integrate our S5 into our company network thanks to you! I dont know why the static ip option is missing in the display menu. This is an absolute must.
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Ich würde ja versuchen alles im Backofen warm zu machen sehr lange z.B. bei 100°C und dann mit Handschuhen versuchen das wieder rauszukneten.
Strange Pattern in Print Walls
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by mkaj2019
Eine zweite Gewindespindel bringt nichts wenn die eine wobbelt. Es gibt soviele Leute mit deinem Problem gerade mit chinesischen Gewindespindeln und chinesischen Druckern
1. Ist dein Bett richtig manuell gelevelt (ohne den Bltouch).
2. Für mich sieht das immernoch nach Z Achsen Problem aus. Miss doch mal den Abstand des Musters und schau ob das der Spindelsteigung entspricht. Falls ja, versuche deine Z Achsen Spindeln gerade einzubauen oder so einzubauen, dass sie hin und her eiern können ohne die x y ebene zu beeinflussen. Einfach nach Lösungen googeln z.B. https://the3dprinterbee.com/de/z-wobble-z-banding-ender-3-v2-pro/ oder