Ishy
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Posts posted by Ishy
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Interestingly the problems were with an AA 0.25 head. Yesterday I changed to a 0.4 and it's just finished a 15hr print without a single problem.
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On 11/11/2018 at 9:41 PM, kmanstudios said:
If the switching arm (the lever that raises or lowers extruder 2) is facing the front of the printer, then it is Material one that is giving the error.
If it is facing the back of the printer then it is Material 2 that is the culprit.
Are you using the app?
And, I bet that the culprit is the extruder with PVA. Why? Because it is the usual suspect.
My S5 has recently started doing this and according to the above it's the CPE not the PVA. Not connected to a network and it's a pretty new roll of filament.
Does Ultimaker have an official fix for this yet? Reading this thread I only see workarounds and maybe's.
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Ok, thank's for the reply. Funnily enough I do normally use some hairspray type glue.
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Just removed a large CPE part from the printer and left it for 30 minutes during which time there was a lot of creaking. The part came off with almost no help at all along with the surface of the glass as you can see in the pic. No glue was used on the build plate. Anyone else had this?
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Looks good, so did you just replace the glass bed with a sheet of acrylic? Did you heat it and did it stick ok?
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Also noticed this but strange it's just the one area.
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Yes its a Ultimaker S5,also its a very small closed room thats pretty hot.
Looking more closely (I paused the print) it's just the outside wall in that one area. It's 100% infill and that seems perfect.
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Can anyone hep with this please. Its BASF carbon filament at the recommended temperatures but as you can see the layers seem to be separating in one area.
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Not seen that before but looks neat. Can't help wondering if the exposure time is enough to completely dry the filament though.
Also been looking at food dehydrators which seem to be an option. For now I'm running a dehumidifier in my print room which is relatively small.
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25 minutes ago, pdzamore said:
Are you looking for a filament that will compress or elongate? NinjaTek Cheetah (glue stick on glass at 90°C) and 3DXTech 3DXFlex 92A (glue stick on glass at 80°C) both print well on the UM2 and S5. More flexible filaments like Ninjaflex and 3DXFlex 88A are hard to print with the Ultimaker extruders. Cheetah and SDXFlex 92A are similar to hard rubber.
colorFabb nGen_Flex is not as bendable as Cheetah or 3DXFlex 92A, but it will spring back really well and has a gorgeous surface finish. nGen_Flex is harder to get to stick to the bed. I print it using PVC cement diluted 1:1 in acetone (80°C bed). To make clean up easier, I put PET or Kapton film down before I paint the bed with the cement. ABS juice probably works too. Finally, Taulman PCTPE is deformable but not squishy. It is the easiest to print of all of these. nGen_Flex and PCTPE are bendable plastics, like a soft nylon.
All of are fine to immerse in water.
Wow thank's, you sure know your filaments!
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Turned it off and bingo, sorted. Strange it's enabled in the CPE profile.
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9 minutes ago, Dim3nsioneer said:
Do you have coasting enabled?
Yes it is.
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Can anyone tell me why part of this layer is not printing? In other layers the missing print shifts to another area. This is Cura 4.0. Thank's.
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Same here, no second plate and I put the form in around three weeks ago.
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1 hour ago, Smithy said:
You definitely need a brim and I use always the UM adhesion sheets, then I have no issues with the adhesion. But I tried once a print without brim, because I thought I could save some work removing the brim, and it failed after a few layers.
But thats the only issue you have to be careful, anything else works fine and I print just with the default settings of Cura.
Ok, thank's for the help.
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Thank's for that I'll get some on order. Looks like it can be a little tricky to print with?
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Hi, can anyone tell me the best Ultimaker filament to use that will bend and spring back to original shape please. Also needs to be suitable for water immersion.
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Can anyone advise which is the best setting to use here for dimensional accuracy. Exclusive, middle or Inclusive.
Thank's.
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15 hours ago, gr5 said:
I'm not sure but I think there were issues of inconsistent flatness and possibly the aluminum warps over time after heating to 100C and cooling again repeatedly. Or maybe only the *second* issue (the temperature warping) was the issue. Note that it's pretty thin - probably the same thickness as the glass which you could measure yourself but I think might be 4mm? Making aluminum that thin and also having it not warp when repeatedly heated to 100C is evidently a problem.
Interesting thank's. It is possible to get both dimensionally and thermally stable alluminium that would easily meet the requirements. Downside is the minimum thickness is 5mm and the glass plate is under 4mm.
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Hi, Interesting read after recently buying an S5 that I'm extremely pleased with. I have filled out the form to get another glass bed that will prove extremely useful to me. However, back to the alluminium issue. I've been manufacturing billet alluminium parts for well over 20 years and would be interested in some details of exactly what the issue is. Is it Dimensional tolerances or heat related maybe?
Ultimaker S5 - one material appears to be empty
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Does nobody have any input on this?