GregValiant
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Posts posted by GregValiant
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I think this is what you're looking for. You didn't mention your printer. This is for mine...
Within the "creality_base.def.json" file in the "Overrides" section is "machine_max_feedrate_z":{"default_value": 10 }, . That sets the max allowable Z-Hop speed in the Cura settings dialog.
Still in the Overrides but down a bit further is "speed_z_hop":{"value": 5 }, and that sets the default number in the Cura settings dialog. It's what shows until I make a change.
If you can find the lines in your definition file - change the max to 25 and the speed to 20, save the file and restart cura.
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Send M203 Z10 (10 is an example number) followed by M500. M203 is max speed for the various axis and M500 will save it to memory in the printer.
I used to like to fly fish for carp. My biggest was 28#. They are fresh water bonefish only bigger.
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20x20 is about 37%. Even with Print Thin Walls turned on it doesn't look good. On that particular model scaling to 75% is about the bottom end of "Printable" with a .4 nozzle. At 37% it would print with a .2 nozzle at .2 line width. Sometimes you have to "scale the nozzle" down to keep things printable. I think if you tried to print that at 37% scale with "Print thin Walls" on and a .4 nozzle the snot factor of the filament would pull all the hexagons into circles anyway. There wouldn't be any squish because of the really low flow through the nozzle.
When scaling a model down, fine features start to disappear. Once a feature width gets below "Line Width" it gets tough to print and even if it does print it will be really weak.
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I think this is similar to what a dual extruder machine has to live with. You have an offset between the nozzle and the router bit. When the machine is set up as a single nozzle then the router is wrong. When it is set up for the router then the nozzle is wrong. What software are you using when you router?
Post 2 pictures of the printer. One with the print head in the Home position on the left and one with the print head as far to the right as it will go. I need to think on this.
These are just musings...
You may end up adding a second printer to Cura that is the router configuration. The first printer would be the FDM machine. I think your going to lose 20mm of the width from the build area no matter how you end up configuring the machine in Cura (or any other slicer). The important part will be that whether you are printing or routering that the machine head moves to the max limits without crashing into anything.
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They're like motorcycle saddles...If you are happy with the one you have why change? You might get glass and hate it.
I like mine (from Creality). I use hairspray as an adhesive. Sometimes things stick overly well but the handy dandy putty knife and a tap with a little shoe repair hammer convinces the parts to release. The hard part to deal with is the clips because there are times when the print head will need to go where the clips are. I finally glued some small aluminum angles to the underside of the metal bed and they act as edge locators for the glass. No clips at all. It was either that or start wearing safety glasses when I was printing. I'd forget about the clips and the printer would shoot them right across the room.
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That is an interesting project. I'm not sure how good the translation to English works.
I tested with a 25x25x25 cube. I can get close but Cura wants to make the trip as short as it can. That means extrude a line up, move over, extrude down, move over, extrude a line up, etc..
Every layer looks just like this. No walls, no floor, no top, just infill
If the project needs to:
Extrude a line up, move over, come back, extrude a line up, move over, come back, extrude a line up, etc you will have to fool any slicer into doing that. It is totally inefficient and goes against the programmers intent. I am not saying it can't be done, but it may require some programming skills.
I won't do the test for you, but playing with the settings in a slicer you should get to the photo above. Here is the big clue [ ]
Good Luck!
Greg (from Orvieto) Valiant
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Good call. The Max temp on the Ender is listed in the documentation I could find as 260°C. I just sent it an M104 S275 and it would have tried to get there. That's scary. I would have thought that there would be a firmware Max Temp but it appears that there is not in Marlin 1.8.1.
This is from the Marlin forum on RepRap and is in regards to Marlin 2.x.x:
"#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP" is the setting in Marlin. The max you can set a hot end temp is HEATER_0_MAXTEMP - 15. People were attempting to get around it (to print PEEK) but weren't having success going past 400°.
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"Junction deviation accounts for acceleration at every corner. If you use a higher acceleration, then JD will allow you to take corners faster. If you enable JD and use high acceleration for infill, medium for inner walls and low for outer walls, then JD will automatically adjust cornering speed based accordingly for each scenario"
"In Marlin 2.0 Junction Deviation is enabled by default"
After some more light reading, it appears that "Junction Deviation" (I never came across the term before) has been set in Marlin so all Jerk calculations are done within the firmware. But it sounds like you should (may?) be able to access some acceleration settings. Junction Deviation can only be turned off with a re-compile of Marlin.
M205 sets advanced settings and from the Marlin site your machine should respond to M205 J<Deviation>. I have no idea what a proper "deviation factor" would be. My printer runs Marlin 1.8.1 and responds to accel and jerk settings, but not to a "J" parameter. Maybe if you peruse a Simplify3D gcode file you would come across an M205 line that would give you a better handle on why it's smoother. The printer response to an M503 should show you the current "J" parameter setting. If you were to send an M201 X500 Y500 the printer might change it's acceleration settings. At any rate, it's something to look at.
I found this video on calibrating Accel and JD https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mnvj6xCzikM
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I get to pull this out of my "Things I never knew" file (it's still over a yottabyte) and put it in the "Well now I know" file.
Ta-Daaa...🍺
The operating system in the computer assigns the 8.3 file name to any file. The printer just pulls it out and displays it.
This was also from the reading assignment. I think it stays in the "Things I don't understand" file.
"... followed by 4 hexadecimal digits derived from an undocumented hash of the filename."
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Are you using Accel and Jerk control? The highest Acceleration that my Ender can take doing circles is 500. Above that things get jerky. With Accel and Jerk control turned off it's worse, but with accel at 500 or just below, and Jerk at 8 to 10 it's very smooth. Yes, it's slower, but the finish is good.
Lowering the resolution helped too, but I had to make the Accell & Jerk adjustment to keep from stutter-stepping. This thing was made in Shenzhen, not Geneva.
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You could add the post-processor "Search and Replace" twice. If you set the print temperature in Cura to 300 but you really want 450 - then the first Search and Replace would be set to find M104 S300 and replace it with M104 S450 and the second would be set to find M109 S300 and replace it with M109 S450.
There could be other issues frinstance if you had multi extruders and they needed to drop to a standby temp, or if you were using an Initial Print Temperature or Final Print Temperature. In most cases the above should work.
You could also have Search and Replace set to find just M104 and replace it with "M104 S450 ;". The semi-colon would cause the rest of the line it is on to become a comment. Ex: M104 S450 ; S300. In that case it would change any Initial Print Temp and Final Print Temp but not erase them.
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Laying it flat on it's back the problem showed up.
Load the Mesh Tools Plugin. Select the model and right click. Select Mesh Tools and then "Fix Model Normals". I think some of the surfaces were flipped around.
I still don't like the way the dividers slice. A .2 nozzle makes a world of difference. If you have the model and software you could make the dividers and headers wider.
This is with .4 nozzle
This is .2 nozzle.
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I don't see the problem you're describing but on a closer inspection the center posts of the lower middle window don't seem to slice correctly. This was with .4 nozzle and .4 line width. It looks like there aren't any walls, just the infill.
If you do a "Save Project" and post the .3mf file here your settings will be included. Hopefully they will tell the story.
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I'm posting this here because some of you folks are really good with software.
I've been working on an application and one of the features I'd like to add is to be able to call a 2nd gcode file from within a 1st gcode file. M32 works but requires the 8.3 filename to be written on the line in the 1st gcode file.
I've posted on the RepRap Marlin forum but I thought I'd ask here as well...Is there a way to anticipate how a long file name will be truncated to an 8.3 filename by a printer?
As an example, if I copy "B.gcode" to an SD card, stick it in the printer, and query with M20 I get back "B2726~1.GCO". Then I have to go back into my gcode file and alter my line to M32 S????? B2726~1.GCO. It's a clumsy way to accomplish what I'm trying to do. A user would probably find it daunting if not impossible. If someone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.
Thanks,
Greg
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Under "Dual Extrusion" click on the "invisible" gear icon. It's just to the left of the down arrow on the Dual Extrusion bar. Ticking a setting will make it visible in the main settings window.
in the Machine Settings for your printer, you need to tell Cura how many extruders there are. The other setting (Extruders share heater) doesn't tell Cura how many extruders, just that all extruders use Heater 0.
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Creality CR-X is a dual extruder. Make sure all the Cura settings are the same as for the E5 (bed size, height, etc).
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Everything runs in streaks and this topic has come up a lot lately.
If you haven't done so already - go to the Marketplace and install the "Printer Settings" plugin. Restart Cura. Make the Printer Settings visible and then check the "Extruders Share Heater" box.
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If you look around enough you find things out...
In the Marketplace there is a plugin called "Printer Settings" that will accomplish what I was trying to do manually. Just install Printer Settings and then make them visible. One of the settings is "Extruders Share Heater". Check the box and you should be good. (My thanks to Developer on Reddit).
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Set the Shell / Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion to 0. To get rid of elephant's' foot set it to a small negative number like -0,25.
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Since it seems that nobody wanted to stick their nose in you are stuck with me for a bit.
I have looked at those type of multiple-in-1-out extruders but have not decided whether I want one or not. After seeing your post I've played around a bit with Cura. There are likely better ways to do this but...
I figured it was probably necessary that all three materials have the same printing temperature. I created a custom PLA material in Cura and set both the printing and standby temperatures to 210. I used that material in all three extruders.
Then I searched Cura for "temperature" and with each extruder selected in turn, set all temps to 210.
I set walls to print with extruder T0 and top and bottom to print with extruder T1 and infill with extruder T2.
Looking through the Gcode file - M104 was only present at the start of the file as each Tool was heated. Those were followed by M109's.
The next M104's were after the last time each extruder was used and then a following M104 S0 shut it off. That wasn't good. I searched for M104 S0 and commented out all but the very last one.
My take from this is that getting the hot end to stay at one temperature all the time is doable. It seems to require just a little fancy footwork.
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When trains need to turn around they use loops. They can go back down the same track or an adjacent track.
This is a single wall .8 thick with cylinders extruded onto the ends. I filleted them in to give the printer a radius to zing around instead of having a hard corner. Line Width in Cura was set at 0.5. I did get some zits printing at 50. At 43 it was good. I bring that up because if your model gets zits they will be the size of Volkswagons.
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The magic trick for a clogged nozzle is to heat it up and burn the plastic out. I use a propane torch to heat them up and then cleaning needles and a small brass wire brush to finish the job. I have not had any issues cleaning them like.
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I'm going to stick with Godzilla (although I had hoped for a 440v 3phase hot end). The extruder motor is a beast!
As a critique - the casters look undersized. Maybe the tires off an 18 wheel truck (Lorry for the Brits) would have been better suited.
Keep us in the loop.
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This is interesting. I've seen the Boat video, and Houses being extruded. With 8 x 12 layers you could print me a Ferrari!
If it's possible - I think many here would like to see an image of the machine itself. I certainly would.
To refresh my mind...In Vase mode, Cura increases the "Z" in steps around the periphery. The layer start point and end point are then at the same XY point, but 1 layer height different in the Z (hence the name "spiralize"). Spiralize works on solids and then just prints the outer shell while ignoring the interior and roof. The floor can be ignored as well.
What the image is telling me is that you have a wall instead of a classic "3D solid". A layer would start at one end and continue to the other, then come back to start another layer at a full layer height difference in the Z.
I don't know your design constraints or how many you need, but if the wall was 30mm thick (a "classic" 3D solid) with the long sides 2 of the wall shapes you want printed, and Bottom Layers set to "0", Spiralize would slice it and provide you with a hollow tube. After cutting off the short walls, you would have two long walls of single nozzle width thickness. At 12mm it should probably be called a "Deluge Pipe" instead of a nozzle.
Post a picture of the machine please. I've already named it "Godzilla".
3D Print Coming Out Mesh-Like
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
With that part in Cura do a "File / Save Project" and then post the .3mf file here. The "project" file will have the model and all your settings. It would be much easier to decipher than the photos.