GregValiant
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Posts posted by GregValiant
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"Running Cura via a remote desktop connection is not supported."
@ahoeben - Please consider me dazzled.
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Print from the SD card.
From what I've gathered hanging around here, none of the Ultimaker printers use Print by USB anymore and so it hasn't been changed or fixed in years. Eventually you will run into the "M1" problem that stops a print and requires a quick button click to resume. If the restart click isn't within 2 minutes the steppers time out and lose position. Even if you resume within the 2 minutes the print head has been stuck on the print making a serious mark. Pronterface has the exact same problem. It appears (so far) that Octoprint/PI doesn't suffer from the problem. Print from the SD card. You already own everything you need and there's no learning curve.
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I will take it upon myself to be the resident translator here. After carefully going through @kmanstudios explanation, the translation is:
Dat model be broke.
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This is a piece of cake.
In Cura, select Extensions / Post Processing / Modify Gcode
Select "Add a Script" and then select Pause At Height
In the dialog box for Pause at Height in "pause at" select By Layer (Height can be fooled by Z-hops)
Remember that the layer you see in the Cura preview is a base 1 number, but gcode layers are base 0. So if you see in Cura that you want to pause at Layer 57, then in the dialog enter 56 (Cura layer - 1).
Disarm timeout = 1800 (that's the max of 30 minutes)
Park the head wherever you want to get it out of the way.
I don't bother with the retraction stuff. It requires some dialing in.
Standby Temperature should be your printing temperature.
Code before pause is M300. It means Beep.
So the print will move along and then get to the pause. The printer will beep, maybe make 1 or 2 more moves, and then park the head where you told it to. Insert your insert. I know that if the pause uses the M0 Marlin command, it will require a button click to resume. Other firmware might be different.
Do to some oozing, the first few mm of extrusion may be sparse, then it will get back to normal. You might be able to fix that by practicing with the retraction settings.
Oh yeah...Show Progress. The "ShowProgress.py" file goes here: "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.x.x\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts". Copy it in and re-start Cura. Add ShowProgress as a post processing / Modify Gcode script. It will show the Cura layer number and a time estimate on the LCD screen.
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Gotta be a Windows/Computer thing. I have 4 versions of Cura and 8 other slicers loaded on this Win 10 laptop and I tried the model in about 8 of them with no problem. Do you still have the Creality slicer loaded(?) because under the hood it's a less capable Cura and might make an alternative test.
If you need to knock a project out maybe install Prusaslicer. A lot of people like it. Bit of a learning curve but at least you would be moving forward.
You've tried "Run as Administrator" and checked all the permissions and sharing and that sort of stuff?
I write a little code and the only way I could get my apps to run was to create Exceptions in my anti-virus.
"Computers are not an exact science" - Me
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Were you able to save the print?
I had the same problem with my Ender. I call it "cotton candy" and it's so fine I haven't been able to measure it. Heck, sometimes it's so fine it slips between my fingerprints and I can't grab it.
I tried a grill but it needed to be cleaned or the same problem arose (lack of air). I decided to move the air intake to the side but it still picked up the hairs. This is the final design. It moves the intake to the top and away from the cotton candy producer. It works. I stripped the plastic off of a refrigerator magnet and glued it into a pocket.
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" the software driver for the CZ300 was able to identify version 3.6 and the printer is now working"
Are you printing over the USB? In Cura 4.X versions (I don't know when it started) the USB Printing plugin has to be installed and enabled. You will find it in the Market Place and should be under Installed. Make sure it's ticked.
A visit to the XYZ forum was pretty useless, but I gotta say with a post of "Growing cannabis at home" it was worth the price of entry.
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That's interesting.
Cura time calculation is not very accurate. Determining the Z value in a file with Z-hops is tricky. Thinking on this though...
At the beginning of each file, Cura puts in a guesstimate of print time in seconds.
At the end of each layer Cura adds a line ;TIME_ELAPSED:428.207830 for the guesstimate of the print time of that layer (a guess to 6 decimal places!). Unfortunately, if the layer takes a long time and you require multiple wipes during the layer things get problematic. I don't like my thoughts on "temporal" so I've just erased them.
How about count the bytes? We know the approximate print time and the file size.
I have a file that Cura tells me takes 17880 seconds to print and is 18,790,673 bytes. I want to wipe every ten minutes.
17880/600 = ~30 wipes in the file.
18,790,773 / 30 = ~626,359 bytes/wipe (sounds vaguely disgusting)
Count bytes in the file to 626,359 and insert your code there. Keep doing it until the end of the file. It would also require a "read behind" to know the print height Z (as opposed to a Z-hop height). There might be a need to insure the code didn't get inserted in a "bad place". Do you need to know the E value in case of retraction and prime moves?
Then there is extrusion distance (I like it). You could parse the file for E values. You know the feed rate, line width, layer height, and mm of extrusion/mm of filament. Every so often (1000mm of filament?) insert the wipe code. It has the advantage that you always know the E value and Z value. The disadvantage is you would need to parse every line in the file. Cura by design resets the extruder to 0 every so often (its a math "round off" thing) so you would need to keep track of the E to figure where the next 1000 actually occurs, or easier, don't worry about a possible 10% error occurring every so often. Another plus is that you get multiple wipes during long layers for free.
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In the Travel settings, you have Retraction enabled, but the Retraction Distance is "0". Set it to 5 and see how that works. Retraction pulls the plastic back to eliminate stringing, but too much is a bad thing and can clog the bowden tube.
I set my Z-hop height to 0.5. The default is 0.2 but I find that because a lot of my prints have arches that can curl up a bit as they close together the extra height keeps the printer from catching on the curls as it moves.
One of the problems with Cura is that there are no "wrong" settings. Because there are a LOT of settings some will effect others. Figuring out ahead of time whether that effect will be a plus or a minus is the trick.
Oh Yeah...The raising of the Z thing. Did you figure that out? Both motors turn?
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And now @SandervG has promoted me to the century club.
WooHoo!!! I'll be awaiting my virtual bonus on that one baby.
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The error message pretty much says it all. When you load a gcode file it can't be modified. You can change it in a text editor. Cura can interpret a Gcode file into a cartoon for the Preview pane but that's it.
"this happens once i load an image in to write from g code in order to put into labista"
I'm sorry. You'll have to explain more because I have no idea what that means.
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There are 3 ways for Cura to calculate the extrusion E numbers. Absolute, Relative, and Volumetric. There needs to be synchronicity between the various components so they understand each other.
That file is sliced in "Absolute" mode and so there is an M82 line to inform the printer of that. Since you have Octoprint between the printer and the slicer, you may need to change a setting in Octoprint.
Under "Special Modes" you will find "Relative Extrusion". When selected it will add an "M83" after your start up gcode. That will negate the M82, but as I say, that file is sliced in Absolute Mode so telling the printer to reset to 0 after every line of Gcode (that's what Relative does) will make a mess.
In addition you have the standard lines that are included with the Ender 3 definition file:
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 F1800 E-5Those extrusions are in Absolute mode and so there is an M82 before them.
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In Cura load a small model and set it to print with Extruder 1. Then disable Extruder 2.
Start the print. You can abort after you see which nozzle is the active nozzle.
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Those are the Settings Visibility that allow you to see the settings in the list on the right side of the screen.
At the upper left of the screen is the word "Market Place". Directly below that is a slide control that says "Custom". Turn that on to view the settings you have made visible. Move down to Travel and find Z hop there.
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I hope this translates OK.
Here is a Gcode script to help you level the bed. It is written for a printer that has a build plate of 400 X 400. It uses the Marlin "M0" to pause. If your build plate is smaller than 400 x 400 (what I found on the internet for a Chiron) DO NOT RUN THIS without first changing the numbers as described below or it will hit the end stops hard.
If you are leveling with the nozzle cold, make sure there is no plastic hanging from the nozzle.
- Copy and paste the code into a text file.
- Save the file as "Leveling.gcode".
- Copy the file to your SD / TF memory card.
- Insert the card into the printer, refresh the file list, and print the file.
- The printer will move to the first position and pause. While it is moving slide the piece of paper into position under the nozzle.
- Adjust the leveling screw closest to the print head until you feel the nozzle drag on the paper (this is what Smithy is talking about. It takes a bit of practice to get "the feel".) To make it tighter, turn clock-wise and to make it looser turn Counter-Clock-Wise.
- Then click on the button on the LCD to resume and the print head will move to the second position.
- This piece of code will make two circuits around the build plate (pausing near each corner) so you can double check your leveling.
This code describes a square from X25 Y25, to X25 Y375 to X375 Y375 to X375 Y25 and back to X25 Y25. You can adjust all the 25's and 375's and make the print head move the positions of your choice. It is best to perform leveling with the nozzle directly above each leveling screw.
Prior to actually printing, both the build plate and the nozzle should be at printing temperature. For practicing, it doesn't matter.
If you are still having trouble you can use a light coat of super hold hairspray on the build surface, or increase the flow to insure there is good squish of the plastic to the build surface.
; Start of Gcode
G28; Home the print head
G0 F5000 Z10; Move up
G0 X25 Y25 F6000; Move to first position
G0 F500 Z0; Move down
M0; Pause
G0 F5000 Z10
G0 X25 Y375 F6000
G0 F500 Z0
M0
G0 F5000 Z10
G0 X375 Y375 F6000
G0 F500 Z0
M0
G0 F5000 Z10
G0 X375 Y25 F6000
G0 F500 Z0
M0
G0 F5000 Z10
G0 X25 Y25 F6000
G0 F500 Z0
M0
G0 F5000 Z10
G0 X25 Y375 F6000
G0 F500 Z0
M0
G0 F5000 Z10
G0 X375 Y375 F6000
G0 F500 Z0
M0
G0 F5000 Z10
G0 X375 Y25 F6000
G0 F500 Z0
M0
G0 F5000 Z10
G0 X25 Y25 F6000
G0 F500 Z0
M400; Finish all moves
M84 XY; disable the X and Y stepper motors
M117 End of Leveling Print; Send a message to the LCD
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Z-hop is down at the bottom of the Travel settings. Enable it and set the Z-hop height to 0.5 to start out. You can always raise or lower it.
It sounds like there is a problem with the Z drive. What kind of printer is that? For a run-of-the-mill open frame cartesian printer (Anet, Creality, etc), the set screws in the Z coupler can get loose and the motor turns, but the Z lead screw doesn't. So start by checking those screws and make sure the coupler is tight to the Z motor shaft, and to the Z lead screw.
Next is binding. The Z lead screw must always stay parallel to the aluminum upright of the frame no matter where the print head is. Sometimes the Z motor mounting bracket needs to be shimmed to make that happen. Pieces of paper will work as shims. I think mine ended up at 0.3mm.
If the rollers on the X beam are too tight the beam will not raise smoothly or can get cocked/skewed. That's a bad thing.
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What material are you printing?
Which version of Cura?
I don't see an infill pattern called "diamonds". Could you check the name?
Are you using Z-hop on retraction?
How and why are you "raising" the nozzle?
A lot of the infill patterns have cross-overs where the nozzle moves across a line that it previously put down during the current layer. When it comes to the line it doesn't retract or z-hop, it extrudes right through it. Since everything on a layer is at the same height, this causes the nozzle to damage the first line laid. Two exceptions are Lines and Zigzag.
if you are printing with PLA a raft should not warp. If you are printing with PETG or ABS then your bed isn't hot enough.
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Starting about noon on Christmas day, there will be a huge influx of people (mostly young people) who will be getting into 3D printing with absolutely no idea of what is involved. The same questions will be asked numerous times and will require the same answers over and over. A sticky thread of how to get started might be a good idea. This would be more for the non-Ultimaker crowd that is looking to Cura as their slicer. They will be knocking on the door here. The Cura Reddit crew is going to have their hands full.
So my suggestion for right now is to start on 3d Printing 101 covering:
- Why it's important to put the machine together square and parallel.
- What are steps/mm and why are they important.
- Importing STL files from Thingiverse and the shortcomings of some models and why they don't slice.
- Basic slicing with Cura. Things to look for in the Preview pane.
- Basic Gcode commands (G28, G29, G92, M104, etc) and why a printer needs to see them.
- Why USB printing isn't a great idea.
Much of it could be just posting links to sites containing the information and/or videos to get them pointed in the right direction. They aren't going to look at "Cura Settings Explained", they are just going to post a question that could have been searched for and the answer found. There might be value in having a thread "New to 3D Printing - Start Here" that always stays at the top of the list. At the end it could have the etiquette rules and such for the site.
When they move on from "Mini's" they can learn about tolerances, supports, the effect of infill on structural integrity and strength, FEA, and the rest of the arcane and boring that makes up the vast realm of engineering.
It's already on your calendar...Christmas day...about 4 hours after they open that big box with the Chinese writing on it. And some of them will be potential Ultimaker customers down the road a bit.
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Under Special Modes, set Print Sequence to One at a Time. Make sure it works in preview but if your gantry height is greater than the height of the parts it should slice.
Using "One at a time" brings the Machine Settings / Print Head Settings into play. Cura should notice if there is a crash and in that case it won't slice.
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Thank you, I will.
Since I am now rolling in virtual cash, I will buy the next virtual round.
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I see I've been promoted from a mere member to an 🍺Expert🥂. I'm amazed since I figured it was more likely that I'd get thrown out. Have the standards been lowered? Why didn't I get the memo?
With Christmas coming up I was wondering when I can expect to see my virtual raise in my virtual check. It would virtually come in handy this time of year.
Thanks,
Greg (V as in Virtual) Valiant
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Yes, severely under-extruded.
The Extruder steps/mm may need calibration.
The printer and/or Cura have been set to Volumetric extrusion.
As @brtzor says, it could be a problem with the printer.
Both Mari and I have Ender 3 Pro's. For myself it was always a blocked bowden tube at the hot end from heat creep. I finally gave up and went with an all metal hot end. Not perfect, but it's much much better.
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On 12/10/2020 at 12:29 PM, Mari said:
My Ender 3 Pro has no "About Printer" option available...
Mine is (1) below the "Change TF Card" command in the first screen after a button click.
Here is the start up screen from a cold boot. This is with the 1.1.5 silent board and stock firmware. Marlin version is 1.1.8. The stock 1.1.4 board was Marlin 1.1.6 and the printer is 12 months old.
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I've tried to learn what I could from afar since I'm still a manual leveler (with no intention of moving to ABL). The offset dimensions from the probe to the nozzle has to be entered somewhere and depending on how the probe is mounted, you must be able to change it. Reading the descriptions of the G29 command and all the parameters on the Marlin site isn't easy.
G29 [A<bool>] [B<linear>] [C<bool>] [D<bool>] [E<bool>] [F<linear>] [H<linear>] [J<bool>] [L<linear>] [O] [Q<bool>] [R<linear>] [S<rate>] [V<0-4>] [W<bool>] [X<int/float>] [Y<int/float>] [Z<float>]
Cura Slicer
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by GregValiant
There is a lot of wordage on this but doesn't appear to be much help. There was some promise in this GITHUB thread (one of many) but I think it keeps getting deferred. @ahoeben might be the most knowledgeable on the subject.