dadoblu_2000
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Posts posted by dadoblu_2000
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CIAO @ ansonl il file head_bottom_repaired.stl quando lo carico nel mio programma slicer sembra non essere visibile, indica che le superfici sono troppo sottili, tutti gli altri modelli le caricano correttamente, inoltre è possibile avere una guida su come stampare il cartella modelli "parti master da stampare"
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hello @yyh1002 I worked on your project I wanted to do it for a long time but mandatory commitments did not allow me to complete it, I finally managed to complete it, I wanted to ask you if you have any profiles for ultimaker cura, simplification3d or Kisslicer that I can share, i'm trying to adjust the XY axes and i seem to have succeeded the combs are well aligned, i have no idea how to do it in Z, i can't figure it out, i just adjust the nozzle via the display, after the adjustments i tried reprinting the attachment models with Polycarbonate and Pva I wanted to try to see how they would come out but I noticed that during printing I encountered a problem of non-alignment between the two prints, even if in the adjustment phase the comb models are printed perfectly Can you advise me on what could be the problem that I can't see?
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Hello everyone, I would like to replace my original ultimaker card with a duet2 wifi already in my possession with its 7-inch monitor, I would like to know if there is a guideline to be able to configure the card considering that my printer is equipped with a double extruder mod DXU and I would like to keep it, can you help me?
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Ciao @yyh1002 I have inaccurate values in the temperature reading, it is possible to have the factory values for 24v 35w resistance and for pt100 temperature probe in order to compare them with those I have, I tried to do the PID config, the values are different between hotend 1 and hotend 2 is normal? in addition, I find that if I set the same temperature between the two hotends, the filament has a different viscosity, let me explain better, I mold with the same filament, same brand, same color, hotend 1 and 2, from hotend 1 the filament comes out beautifully fluid as it should be, while in hotend 2 less fluid comes out, but the temperatures are identical according to the display, at the moment I don't have an infrared thermometer to be able to check the real temperature.
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how do i adjust the docking position? when I switch from extruder 2 to extruder 1 the lever moves but does not get stuck and therefore it releases, I have to make the lever run longer but I don't know where to find the values that regulate the transition from extruder 2 to extruder 1.
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make sure the site is the right one, have had problems with sites trying to copy their portal, this is what I use https://www.superbuy.com/en/
if you can't contact customer service they will help you -
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i use superbuy.com for taobao shopping
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someone can explain to me how to perform XY calibration, I just can't figure out how to do it
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7 hours ago, yyh1002 said:
Have a browse in the menu on the printer, there is an option called motor invert or something similar. You can invert the E2 motor there.
Yes, thank you very much, I had not thought of checking the menu of the printout, I am also making the modification to the extruder doing the B2D, the steppers relating to the motor are already set in the DXU firmware or I have to replace them based on the formula you indicate in the project and above all how do I insert them permanently in the firmware?
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On 5/30/2020 at 6:52 AM, yyh1002 said:
I made the change to dxu but the second extruder turns in the opposite direction how can I change the direction of rotation?
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hello, yes Chinese is difficult, you can use eighth notes and use an online translator, after this you use superbuy or any other brokerage service, they think all their international shipments, I'm just waiting for the goods purchased for modification to arrive to DXU via DHL
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I on aliexpress have failed. finding them and a few that I found cost 10 times more, so I got the acquired on taobao, I simply registered an account on taobao and then I entrusted to superbuy, I choose the product that buys it for me, I pay my order and I speeded up by reliable and fast express courier service.
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Hi Torgeir,can you give us a link where you can download Cura 15.04.5 or tell me where to find it, you intrigued me and I want to test it thanks
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3 hours ago, Torgeir said:
Cura 15.04.5 and viewed in Cura 2.5.0, Cura 4.6.1 and S3D
when you talk about Cura 15.04.5 do you reverence at cura 4.5? because I am actually using this version and I am much better than caura 4.6.1, at the moment I am printing PC components and I must say that with care 4.5 I find a better composition than with care 4.6.1, s3d works well I downloaded the profile from the Polimaker website and I have to say that I don't find any difficulties at the moment, I am printing the DXU modification to transform my UM2 + into a double extruder. thank you very much for the advice.
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3 hours ago, geert_2 said:
A question: where exactly did you measure this voltage drop? Was that directly on the connectors coming from the supply? Or further down in the circuit board? In the latter case, too thin wires on the board, or too excessive resistance in for example fuses or protection circuits on the board (if any?) could also contribute to the voltage drop. While in the first case, obviously, it is the power supply and/or its wiring itself that is causing the trouble.
Since it seems that the bed-heater draws too much current, do you think people could solve this by keeping all current circuitry and sensors intact, but just connecting the bed-heater wiring to a relay (mechanical or solid-state), and add a separate power supply for the bed connected to that relay? So that the main current now goes via the relay and separate supply, but the rest of the controls are intact? Maybe this could be a solution for people who are less skilled in electronics than you are?
See this quick and primitive scheme:
my own idea, only that I wanted to use a mosfet to control the heated floor, but it would seem that it does not solve the problem
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10 minutes ago, Torgeir said:
Hi Folks,
Yes there is a difference between Cura and S3D, Cura use Ultimaker 2 "gcode flavor setting", while S3D use Marlin "gcode flavor setting". S3D have "-some" more parameter to use during slicing..
So it sounds quite different during start and sometimes during printing.
I've been using S3D for a some time so noticed this long time ago. 🙂
Thanks
Torgeir
I am not very practical about s3d but I would like to understand how it works, there are some things I prefer compared to care such as inserting the supports, if you want you can share your profiles with me in order to facilitate things, without being there to test everything .
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On 5/17/2020 at 8:31 PM, nighthowlers said:
The source files for the firmware are here:
Ultimaker2 source is here:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin
Ultimaker2 plus is here:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware
You just need to download Arduino IDE, open the Marlin.ino file, and compile. To upload, connect printer to PC, select the right COM port, select Mega2560 as the board, and hit upload.
ok thanks for the information, I wanted to ask you if you had tried to make prints with different slicer programs, for example I tried simplify3d and I noticed that the walls are printed much more linear and I also noticed that the noise of the stepper motors changes as if the current that came to him was modified by the program is it possible or are they just my fantasies? -
7 hours ago, nighthowlers said:
Rest was simple firmware tweaks
thanks for your offer of construction of the component but I write from overseas I am in Italy, I find it difficult to change the firmware, where can I find the file?
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3 hours ago, nighthowlers said:
To bring closure to this thread, I have solved this issue for at least my printer. I tried several different software fixes such as PWM vs. Bang-Bang control of heat bed etc, and none were helpful for me. The issue as @Torgeir has pointed out is that there is a significant voltage drop.
In the (poor) screenshot of the oscilloscope you can see the drop in the 24V line when the heat bed turns ON/OFF. The drop is around 400mV.
With more time (and will) I wanted to figure out what subsystems are susceptible to this voltage drop (is it the ADC for temp sensors?, is it the change in temp for hotend? etc.) but instead I chose the easy route and just modded my printer as follows. It seems like a bit heavyweight mod, but at the end of the day, this substantial drop in voltage suggested to me at least one of the following if not all:
- The power supply is under powered
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Lack of resiliency in circuit design to cope with 1.5% 24V drop
- This could be as simple as filter caps
- Or better Vref for ADCs and such
- Or need for better PID/temp control of hotend
I don't know which of the above it is.
Here is what I did.
I made custom circuitry and mods to support an independent heater power supply and control. To (over) engineer it for safety and spec, I went with high quality power control modules. For example, instead of rolling my own MOSFET board, I chose to use the ever popular and reliable Pololu G2 which is designed for 24V 21 AMP continuous draw and still be warm to touch!
Items Needed:
- I had to design a simple little board to breakout the KPJX power supply. This was the only custom electronics component. Again, I chose high quality high amperage rated connectors (TDPT 2,5/ 2-SP-5,08 - 1017503) and good quality electrolytic caps.
- 24 V Cutoff relay. If you look at the UM2 Mainboard, there is a 555 timer that brings up the 24V supply once the input is stable. I did not want a scenario where a floating PWM pin or some other mistake on my part could ever turn the heater ON if the power to the printer is off or the mainboard is in-operational. As such, the main power is cutoff from rest of circuitry is there is no 24V on UM2+ Mainboard.
- Pololu G2 21Amp version. This board uses really good MOSFETS with very low Rds and excellent perfomance. They are an overkill for our 7 to 8 amp application, but this means, I do not require any active cooling. Under a thermal camera I found the MOSFETs to only get upto about 35-40 deg C.
- A 120W 24V Meanwell PSU. Again, a bit over powered since the printer barely uses 60W (without heater) but the price difference was negligible and I took into account temperature related derating.
Changed the heater control PIN in firmware to use an unused pin on EXP3 header. This pin is then connected to the MOSFET board (PWM on Pololu G2) to turn the heater ON/OFF.
Designed a Mounting Plate (my first CAD where it had to fit an existing part [UM2] 🙂 )
Made sure it looks like factory fitted and modeled it after the original way the connector is cutout at back. I think it came out really well.
Mounting plate uses unused screw holes in UM2 to securely stay in place (not happy with tape.. but had to move on :-)). The original heater wires are connected to the new circuitry using a high ameprage WAGO connector for easy removal. All wires have ferrules attached. Reverting this mod to original printer will take ~10 minutes with only permanent mod being the connector hole.
Summary: My prints now have no bumps/lines and look like they did in my experiments with heater OFF. My next improvement is that the 24V still has high frequency ripple from the motor controllers. I hypothesize that the really fine lines on print (variations, not layer lines) are a result of that. I have to decide whether I figure out what the underlying problem is (why extrusion changes?) or filter out that motor noise.
a really nice job, considering the dual extruder DXU upgrade that I want to deal with if you want to replicate your project in my printer can you tell me if the components can be found on the market and / or if they must be assembled by yourself?
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using a separate 24v power supply and a mosfet that controls the hot plate is it possible to solve the wobble defect?
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1 hour ago, nvcheeko said:
Just quick search. How much u getting ultimaker for, I'll buy more at that price..
I don't think they ship to Italy, besides the fans are turbines, not the radials
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the 3510 12v fans are nowhere to be found, they cost more than the printer, do you have any idea where to find them or if it is possible to put 5v fans?
ultimaker s3 print head bearings
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Hi, I would like to buy new bearings for the ultimaker s3 print head, can you tell me the code and measurements of the two bearings? Thank you