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Torgeir last won the day on March 17 2019

Torgeir had the most liked content!

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  1. Hi Spenter, Since this is the first startup of your system, there is a few thing to check.. First, did you install the two safety links? Those two link can be used to cutoff the 24VDC to all heaters and stepper motors. so if this one is missing, you would not have power to the stepper motors to move. During the setup the Z stepper will move toward the z-stop in order to synchronize. If this voltage is not present, no movement of the bed toward the stop, so after a timeout the Z-switch fail is flagged and it will display; "Z switch broken". When turning on the power switch for the printer, you should be able to hear a solid click when the relay is activating. To verify that this voltage is present, do as follows: Also the 24 VDC "switch" the (only one) relay K1 might be faulty, check the TP21 (Test Point) for 24 VDC on the underside of the PCB. You will find the test point close to the heater connector. I'll assume you know how to do this procedure. Lets do this check as a start. Good luck Thanks Torgeir
  2. Hi Cosmin, So, sound is still there when moving the X-axe. What I notice is that the upper pulley on both the X and Y belt from the stepper motors is touching one side of the pulley guide-wall. After some time the surface on the pulley guide wall become very well polished and the friction here, will make it "singing" so to say. "Normally" a belt should never rest on the guide wall at the pulley on both sides of a belt they share. This is very important on short belts. Then check that the belts do not touch guide wall on the stepper pulleys. Also worth to notice is that if the stepper pulley is too much offset v.s. the upper pulley, you can see the belt will twist a little when mowing the extruder head. Actually twist one way for moving right and the other when moving left. Correction here must be done at the pulley on the stepper (adjusting more in, or more out). I sure agree with @NovaStarGX about axis side offset as such offset give lots of friction and make the stepper work hard and 9 mm is a lot of offset. Ok. you have lots of suggestions so good luck with fault finding. Thanks Torgeir
  3. Hi thelemurking, Just been looking and listening to the sound of your printer and must say this is kind of weird.. Sounds reminds about faulty bearing in a stepper motor, however, this could also be something loose inside the extruder unit, as those stepper motors is quite robust. If you move the extruder manually back and forth in X-axis (printer not powered up), is this sound still present in a way. (This sound seems to be worst in the X-axe.) When moving the head manually, there should be just an even humm without any other strange additional sound.. Kind of difficuld to explain using word.. Also, is there any play when you hold the extruder at the lo end, pushing carefully in X-axis and Y-axis. There should be no play when doing this. When the two bearing inside the extruder become worn you may find a little play here. The sound we can hear here comes from the "small stepping" resonance that makes such a strange sound. A stethoscope can be handy for faultfinding such problem. My best guess is something in the extruder, as this is not a belt problem I'll think. How many hour have those two been printing? Good luck. Thanks Torgeir.
  4. Hi jockcrav, Welcome in here. I just looked at your model in Cura, using X-ray view, here you can see lots of red parts, meaning not connected together with the base of your model. All parts like this must be connected to be properly sliced, if not you'll loose those details. Here is a picture of your model from one side (kind of Z view). The quality of our model must be all joined together. Also the lines are "super" tiny.. Keyword here, use a good 3D drawing tool. Thanks Torgeir
  5. Hi thelemurking, Pleas add a video of your printer when this is going on, make sure you get all four corner from below up to the pulleyes, belts etc. Often such a failure will leave some rubber remains (from above) on the floor at the corner where such a failure occur. A video is a very good way to present such problems. Thanks Torgeir
  6. Hi Folks, Never noted this one, interesting. Is this the X & Y axis on an UM5? If so, is this a 8 mm shaft that is adapted to the old 6mm slide blocks? Right? I've also had problem with loose clamping of the 6mm shafts to the sliding blocks, however I used a peace of paper that cover about 270 deg. around the shaft where it is connected to the block. Done this on all 4 sliding block. Find a type of paper(right thickness) that make enough clamping, do not use to thick paper cause this may make your slider block crack.. BTW, the post it fit well in my UM2 printer.. I've used this for about 1700 hour with no issue. Using same paper lifting both shaft the same distance, so no problem. Well, just so you know about this trick. Thanks Torgeir
  7. Hi @tinkergnome, No, no micro stepping, just the fact that line height is halved.. When the initial layers is to be printed the feeder start skipping due to high feed for such a tiny layers. So I’ll have to readjust either flow or initial layer height some to avoid this to happened. When pirinting is started I can only adjust the flow on the printer (UM2). Well, I'll only go to 150 mm/s travel or printing speed as the stepper is at max speed and will start to stall and loose steps if I'll try to go faster. The mega2560 does fine, but the poor heated stepper drivers is kind of hot.. I've tested it up to 250 % increased speed at initial 60 mm/s printing a standing tube in spiralized mode. It made this, but would not do this again. 🙂 But if I just keep 60 mm/ s printing, it is fine. Thanks Torgeir
  8. Hi Folks, So why this kind of modification you may ask?.. Well, most of my objects is small mechanical parts (95-97)%! In fact could be printed on an UM2 Go, the most accurate printer made by UM, (IMO). As I wanted to have some improved finish, this had to be tested. This modification was easy as the pulleyes on both (X & Y) stepper motors had to be changed from 20 tooth 16 tooth and the pulleyes on the two 8 mm axis is changed from 20 tooth to 32 tooth. So instead of 1:1, it is now changed to 1:2. I’ve made (printed) a new stepper adapter in order to use the same belt as before. I’ve also made a change to the Z-axe setting from 8 step to 16 step (installed a link). However, this latter one is not the one to take easy -as it will influence your filament flow demand and a few other parameter as well. After this change (16 step) you cannot see the horizontal lines when printing high resolution with bare eyes. I’ll probably go back to 8 step as Cura do not handle such a modification just like that.. So how was the effect this modification, this is good for small details in the printed object as long as you use 0.25 mm nozzle, but not so much noticeable when using 0.4 mm nozzle. Also, the surface of the object is smoother.. Note: The firmware has to be set using G code in order to set proper status of the printer. Minus, stepper motor makes more noise, so I'll guess implementing the silentStepStic module will fix that.. Probably my next topic, if time allow.. Ok. Here's some pictures: X-axe stepper before modification. X-axe stepper after modification. (Note the adapter plate) Y-axe stepper before modification. Y-axe stepper after modification. Z-axe 8/16 step connector, where a link must be installed to have 16 step mode. Thanks Torgeir
  9. Hi dfrez, This is Dell DA-2 Series P/N: N112H Model: D2950P-01 Just search google using: dell D2950P-01 This unit has the right type of connector, no extra work... 🙂 Good luck Torgeir
  10. Hi dfrez, I'm using a Dell 24 VDC 12.3 Amp ~295 Watt for an UM2. Sure no problem at all. Here's a picture of it together with another 24 VDC PS delivering 360W, kind of the ones used in the new series of printers. Thanks Torgeir
  11. Hi Curven, Thanks for this info, never had an UMO, so.. Thanks Regards Torgeir.
  12. Hi Folks, I've just found something you all have been searching for.. This board: https://www.tindie.com/products/mmm999/ultimaker-pcb-control-board/#product-description Looks like this: Do not know anything more than found on this site. But you have to order the SilentStepStick Like this one, you have to solder the connector pin yourself. https://www.elfadistrelec.no/en/silentstepstick-tmc2208-36v-step-dir-uart-trinamic-tmc2208-silentstepstick/p/30100509?queryFromSuggest=true But maybe all this can be ordered at this same site. Good Luck Torgeir
  13. Hi Folks, To me this looks as a faulty pressure detection overlay mat failure. Can occur due to rough pressing on the screen / defect overlay mat or detector logic failure. The screen itself seems OK. Thanks Torgeir
  14. Hi fergazz, Just stay away from this setup as it is way to heavy for the Ultimaker gantry, only the stepper is almost twice the weight of the whole complete UM2 extruder unit. This will create lots of resonance lines in the print object and make your UM2 a "turtle 3D printer", as you cannot go at all to the normal speed. Why not go for an UM3 extruder? Just my 5 p. Good luck Thanks Torgeir
  15. Well, -maybe it will help to say that my filament also was out of the box, but this do not mean it is as it should be.. Thanks.
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