Torgeir

Hi @canaksaya, The no 2 extruder port "has" to be activated as the "primary port" in the firmware. The "firmware" is the program that's control the microprocessor on UM2's main PCB. Modifying the firmware might be the bets way to go, I'll think. Some third party "firmware's" may be used as well.. Someone else might chime in here. 🙂 In the meantime, I'll dig a little into this matter. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Faf666, Yes, the display have this glass included, anyway here's their web site: https://www.dlcdisplay.com/ You just send a msg in this website. Thanks

Hi @Andrew_F, To answer this simple, -there is an open (rupture) in your temperature wiring! When this happen, the the temperature go sky high.. "How high, depend of the internal circuit after the "PT100" input!" So, there is a broken wire, some place between your nozzle and the feeder! This is where the wiring bundle always move/bending, -just look here. If this was a permanent failure, it would fail all the time, but this is intermittent -so a now and then connection.. The wires always on a move, -suffer the most, -go figure. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Cuq Cause of this message? "The given author does not exist."

Hi @Adventurehill1, Good news, but did you use Cura 5.70, -or the previous 5.60? Your printer Positioning Accuracy X / Y / Z 0.0125 / 0.0125 / 0.0025 mm (from the user manual). Every Z micro step are 2.5 micron, so you should be able to print "some" tiny layers..

Hi @Nils_007, This is very strange. It looks like the nozzle bed height is way to high, when looking at the "brim layer". Are your printer modified in any way? Here is a link to Eirin in "fbcr8", she made this -how to remove an clean the UM2+ feeder type: https://support.fbrc8.com/hc/en-us/articles/115003853603-Reassembling-the-Ultimaker-2-Ultimaker-3-Feeder Here are Troubleshooting and Advice as well: https://support.fbrc8.com/hc/en-us/categories/200330744-Troubleshooting-and-Advice I've used standard setting in Cura 5.70 and saved it as a project and from this file you can save the gcode file into your sd card for your UM2E+. Here it is: UM2E_Plus_3DBenchy.3mf However, for UM2E+ I'm using Cura version 4.13.1 (the latest version of Cura using the old slicing engine). Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Adventurehill1, This answer quite a few thing. The versions of Cura before ver. 5.60 had some weird issue just with the support on certain places, but not on all print objects. This might also occurs differently caused by "some" model / profiles.. When come to the version 5.60, I've had some issues with it, -but with the new arachne version all (I've seen) this is gone. I'll think this version; Cura 5.70 are the best version I've seen from Cura. I wanted to see you printing the cube with "Z" up -just alone without any support, just to avoid the stringing from the support. This way, you may isolate problems one by one -I'd like to think.. I'll think you're right in assuming there is no under extrution. The E-step are calibrated numbers / mm you confirmed. Did you ever print with PLA with success or.(?) This will be kind of indication that your firmware are working OK. Thanks

Well, -It's the support that's destroy your model in the first place. Rotate your model so the "Z" is pointing straight up, the turn off the support -then you will have a much better model to analyse, for the one trying to help you and for yourself. Are you sure you're using a 0.4 mm size nozzle? Or, could it be a much to high feed rate setting in your firmware? I'll ask this as the line width setting in this last model was 0.24 mm (for a 0.4 mm nozzle) Cura warn you here with "Min layer width 0.34 mm). Still your model looks like this.(?) You're using Cura 5.6.0 , Anycubic advice using Cura 5.2.0 as the profiles are made with this version, I would jump to Cura 5.7.0! Maybe you tell us a little bit more about your printer. Thanks

Hi @Adventurehill1 This print looks much better and I've seen that the acceleration and the speed are more like "PLA". I've just magnified your test cube for a more detailed look. This print looks much better. Try to reduce speed from 80 mm/s to 50 mm/s. Reduce the retraction length from 8 mm to 6.5mm. The surface looks very disturbed, is this a brand new filament just removed from a sealed bag? Also we'll see acceleration/resonance marks in here, so reducing speed may help. Almost all types of thermoplastic attract water directly from the moisture in the air, so it is very important to keep it in a sealed bag with dehumidifier bags (after printing) to prevent this from happening. But again "PLA", doing calibration without proper tuned filament profile are very challenging. PLA are easy to get and cheap.. Anyway good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Slashee_the_Cow and @Adventurehill1. Ofc., all discussions around problems like this are valuable -and I'll sure agree with your suggestions. However, there are some differences in here we'll need to take into consideration. Printing with a (1.5 mm or 0.8 mm) diameter nozzle versus a size of 0.4 mm makes some differences. If we compare the 0.8 mm and 0.4 mm nozzle we'll see it is 0.8 mm is twice the diameter of a 0.4. Further, -the surface area of a 0.8 mm is four (4!) times bigger in area. In addition this printer use a bowden tube, but I do not know the retraction length this printer are using. I'll know that some "Ender 3" types with bowden tube use the same retraction length as my UM2E+ (6.5 mm), "assuming" this Anycubic printer are close to this length. Printing with a 0.4 mm nozzle need much higher feed pressure in order to work properly here, so using a higher speed and acceleration are really needed to improve this problem IMHO. For the Anycubic printer reduce the speed from 80 mm/s (PLA default) "maybe" reduce the speed to say 60 mm/s and keep the acceleration the same as default PLA. When I started printing with PETG I've used PLA and modified the parameters according the specs for the brand of PETG. Only adjusted the speed from 60 mm/s down to about 45 mm/s, else only the temp and the fan (no fan until 25 % of print done then fan on at speed 20 % to the end). Used bed at only 45 deg. C., but with printer closed in front with a top hat as well. Well, -inside the web site of Anycubic they recommend using PLA profile as a "template" for PETG, but need to reduce the printing speed some. As you have the Anycubic profile for PLA, why not try this type of filament to have a little confidence with your printer. Most of us in here started printing with PLA. Just my 5p Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Adventurehill1, You've got plenty of good advice's here. As I've found this issue very strange, I did a little research on your print profiles and Cura. Slicer and firmware here: https://store.anycubic.com/pages/firmware-software I've found out that "redit" made the two profiles present in your printer, TPU and PLA. I'll guess that you modified the TPU profile with the temperature for PETG, yes we do this for sure. However, all your acceleration and speed settings (plus more) are made for TPU. A better chose would be to use PLA parameters and just modify the temperature settings. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Nils_007, This are great news, so just awaiting the new PLA to test. If's the same, -then we'll go to next issue the "feeder and related items". Torgeir

Hi @tio_pepe, Molex and other plastic's connector makers stopped "giving" away the "true" CAD files due to the problem of copying their products. This is rare, because this type of connector is very affordable to buy.

Hi @tio_pepe, Welcome in here. There are lots of 3d files of connectors, maybe not all types due to copy rights. However, serious suppliers make most of their products with standard plugs/connectors that can be supplied from several manufacturers. Sometimes google are not the best search engine.. Try this one "yahoo": https://no.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?hspart=tro&hsimp=yhs-freshy&action=nt&type=Y219_F163_204671_102220&p=cad+model+of+connectors Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Nils_007, this thing is very strange for an UM2E+... As I'll know it takes about 8 - 16 hour to get read of moisture from a roll of filament, I'll guess this is a brand new filament? Before changing anything, let's try some simple test first. When you install a filament into the bowden tube, we have to wait for the heater to reach the preset value for the PLA filament. When the heater sense temperature value from firmware setting, the feeder start moving the filament, when we hit "ready" the filament feeding speed are increased and slow down to slow speed just before entering the cold end of the nozzle. During this preparing procedure you may see the heater temperature, say this temperature is 210 deg. Celsius. During this process, the nozzle are feeding filament, the temperature should be very stable and shall keep this temperature within 1 deg. Celsius! If the temperature jump up and down a high number you may also need to change the temperature sensor (PT-100 a platinum sensor). If the printer can do this, there is nothing wrong with the temperature control.. Lets see how this go. Torgeir