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Torgeir last won the day on August 10

Torgeir had the most liked content!

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  1. Hi @chuck-yanke, Thanks, here is details in pictures. Try a local model aircraft shop, they should have carbon rods approx (1 mm X 1000 mm) thats give you some extras for attachment. Good luck. Thanks regards Torgeir.
  2. Torgeir

    Polycarbonate clear vs. black & white

    Hi Abrasive, Thanks.. This material really can change due to our treatment of it.. Torgeir.
  3. Torgeir

    Cura 3.4.1 Versus Cura 3.0.4

    Will do. Thanks Regards Torgeir.
  4. Hi @engr, This is an "intermittent" open connection between the bed temp sensor and the electronic board (located underside the printer). If this happen the input signal go hi up to 5 VDC and showing max temperature, so printer is halted! You can test this by just start your printer and warm up you heat bed, say 60 Deg Celsius, then try to move the heat bed say half way up. Then just move the cable coming from the heat bed going to the inner left corner. Just move it up and down gently to see if there is some wiring problem, close to the corner and close to the bed is the weak point of such arrangement (but good to check first). Ofc. monitor temp when doing this. Now try to variate the temp slowly + - 5 Deg, just to see if this is related to temperature variation. Second check that the bed temp connector is properly installed. Since this is an intermittent problem, it might also be the temp sensor on the heat bed that's the problem. Actually has happen a few times.. This latter is more complicated to correct. Thanks Regards Torgeir.
  5. Torgeir

    Polycarbonate clear vs. black & white

    Hi Abrasive, An interesting question you asked. Poly-carbonate is a real strong thermoplastic, however everything has issues that's may/change their properties dramatically. So, there is many variants of Poly-carbonate out there using different brand names as, Lexan -the name GE (General Electric) is using for their own version of Poly-carbonate for some products. So, we know that some types of filament will be fast hardening and become very brittle when exposed to UV radiation. Normally transparent Poly-carbonate just become kind of yellow over time, however, this is very dependent of the brand of Poly-carbonate you're using. As a transparent object made of (in this case) P-carbonate, will be transparent for UV radiation as well as might reflected by the mirror effect inside your printed object that's really increase the effect of this kind of radiation. So, darker colored filament absorb UV and black is best. Then, a few of the fast'es aircraft made have their windows made of Poly-carbonate (but not using any kind of this thermoplastic). The modern bowling balls made today have the cover stock made of (yes) Poly-carbonate and they last as long you want to use them.. :) Lastly, there is some stuff (we all knows very well) that Poly-carbonate should never be in contact with; normal car fuel of mogas type and "acetic acid" (as some silicone "glue" with this kind of smell). If you need to clean away grease or fingerprints use alcohol. Car fuel will over some time lead to tiny micro cracks. Silicone glue containing acetic acid will lead to catastrophic reaction and will crack up overnight. So do not use this stuff to glue together parts made of Poly-carbonate. So, what kind of Poly-carbonate filament brand are you printing with? Thanks Regards Torgeir.
  6. Torgeir

    UM2(+) known bugs?

    Hi @CarloK Well, if I'm right; the UM2+ have E369.00 (using a 200 step/rev stepper motor). UM2 have E282 (using a 400 step/rev stepper motor) As an example: UM2+ E369.00 UM2 E282 INV (a check box to change direction for UM2 if needed) If UM2+ is selected the direction will go to default for UM2+ The upgrade kit for UM2 to become UM2+ Software related issues: 1) New stepper motor 200 step/rev and changed direction and E step. 2) New heath block, Ohlson block type, slightly different routine "PID". This is all software changes as far as I know.. I'm using the Ohlson block, with same PT100 sensor and same heater 25 W 24 VDC as original. I have not noticed any difference with the kind of objects I'm printing. Also thing worth notice is that, on the later Cura versions (if you select UM2), Cura ask if you have installed Ohlson block. So this should be good I'll think. The other parts of this modification is hardware as far as I can see. Thank you for keeping our firmware in good shape. :) Regards Torgeir
  7. Torgeir

    Cura 3.4.1 Versus Cura 3.0.4

    Hi Nicolinux, This is the actual log from Cura 3.4.1 related to the pictures in here. I spent a whole day with this problem in order to find an improvement. As this Laptop have a few applications, I'd made a re imaging of the whole registry and cleaned up a few issues but nothing changed in the way Cura 3.4.1 behave. There is no other log file as "stderr", except that I Just registered that the cura log file was made by cura, then it stopped working. No excessive processor activity was noted either, just briefly when writing the cura log.. All this latter info is from the Resource Monitor Program, that I used in order trying to pinpoint this problem. On this Laptop I've installed Cure 15.04.6, Cura 3.0.4 and Cura 3.4.1 Thanks Regards Torgeir.
  8. Torgeir

    UM2(+) known bugs?

    Hi Carlok, Thanks for your reply, I've just made a "new" tread.. And yes, firmware is the other side of the chain as important as the slicer.. :) I'd wish there was a hidden stepper menu, that could be altered for the UM2 users, this hardware is -not very far apart.. Thanks allot for your work. Best regards Torgeir
  9. Hi TheJaguarPrince, Welcome to the Ultimaker Forum. Here is very little information, as printer type, filament type, temperature for nozzle and heath bed. I can see this is a Flashforg. 3D printer, that I do not know very much about, however nozzle height adjustment is something common for this kind of FDM 3D printers. I can see some tiny marks on the heath bed, is this remains during trial? Anyway, the glass plate need to be "super" clean, no fingerprints or things like that here. So wash it in a mild soap water, hand warm, then rinse with warm water. I'm using approx. 60 deg. Celsius for this rinse. then let it dry or use a clean cotton rag. For the nozzle adjustment, we use very thin paper.. The kind like a note from the ATM machine is the one I'm using. Make sure there is no plastic popping out from the nozzle that's can make your adjustment to high. A good practice is to wipe of any things like this before the head cool down after use. Do this adjustment when cold, some use bed and nozzle some heated when doing this. I'm using the cold adjustment method. The picture of you nozzle, with filament hanging down looks like temperature is a little lo. So, temperature and filament (thermoplastic) type is mandatory for us to know.. Here is lots of people in here, so I'm sure you will have lots of more response if you need. Anyway, good luck. Thanks Regards Torgeir
  10. Hi Folks, Just posted this one in a wrong place. 😞 Just an observation about a dramatic different between the two versions of Cura, 3.0.4 and 3.4.1 I've been reading a little in here and just want to give some input about the 3.4.1 version of Cura. I've a laptop that's have lots of strange behavior with this version, however version 3.0.4 run perfect and also the versions before this version, sure they run with some issues.. However with all versions after 3.0.4 they crash when you try to inspect the very first layer. IE. you can look at details all the way down to layer 2, but when going from 2 to layer 1 -will crash Cura. Also everything became super slow from those late versions.. I'm just started to believe (?) that you changed the type of compiler -or something like that. It's kind of weird. All version before and included Cura 3.0.4 is running fine, except for the known issues. Anyway, I've added a few pictures and the log file. The pictures is arranged two and two, the first picture is Cura and the second is the performance monitor. At the very end there is one picture of Cura 3.0.4 running with performance monitor in the right side. Loading of print object take 2.1 second and slicing 5.3 second, quite fast I'll said. So there is a huge difference that I'll hope you folks can solve. Picture Cura_1.jpg Picture Cura_2.jpg Picture Cura_3.jpg Picture Cura_4.jpg Picture Cura_5.jpg Picture Cura_6.jpg Log_File: cura.log Picture Cura_3.0.4.jpg handle first layer very well and no problem. I hope this may/can help some in this issue. Thanks Regards Torgeir
  11. Torgeir

    UM2(+) known bugs?

    Wrong topics. Moderator please remove.
  12. Hi Jakeddesign, Just search amazon with this P/N and you find them for about 350 Yen.. I'd just saw them when I was looking for another suitcase. (After 3 mounts here, you collect a few things..) But I've still a week before returning home,. so.. Anyway, I found this at Akhihabara, the "electronic town" inside Tokyo.. Thanks Regards Torgeir.
  13. Hi Folks, Yesterday I come across a small stepper motor, that might be used on the extruder itself, or for some other use.. The weight is 50 gram and length 30 mm with 4 mm shaft. Not the smallest, but cost only 4 USD (500 Yen) so I bought 3 ea. Here is a picture: The "big" connector we are using on UM2 is shown beside the micro connector this mini stepper use. Specs is found here: https://wakamatsu.co.jp/biz/products/detail.php?product_id=62020023 This stepper is made here in Japan. Thanks Torgeir.
  14. Torgeir

    When there´s no support..

    Hi Folks, Visit Robotdigg, the have all kinds of parts for CNC & 3D printers. I bought belts and pulleys from them (GT2). Thanks Torgeir.
  15. Hi Folks, In the Ultimaker Community Forum, I’ll assume that the roof is high so I go for some thoughts.. When I’ve read this, I do not understand any philosophy behind this. This is the printer that’s known around as the most accurate mono color 3D printer, “the 20 micron FDM printer” and will be in a long time. This is the first “all” metal printer Ultimaker made, having a huge number of printing hour, that’s need to be used and supported because all this experience will benefit the other printers Ultimaker have (3). Well, I'll know UM2's life continue as a UM2+.. What I suggest is this: Why not have a special menu in the UM2+ firmware, where you can select a standard UM2 feeder? This will not be a big issue, as a standard UM2 then can use the 2+ firmware. This will be a big benefit for those still operating a standard UM2. Almost forgot, I’ve been using the Ohlson Block for a Year or so, same standard heater(25 W) and standard PT100. There is no difference I have noticed, -in my way of printing and I can do the full 10 mm3 flow/speed test with max temp only 209 Deg C. Oh yes, I’m using the “original UM2” firmware. I hope this “small thing” can be “implemented” into UM2+ firmware and I’ll think it will be very appreciated by all the owners of an UM2. Thanks Regards Torgeir.

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