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Torgeir last won the day on March 14

Torgeir had the most liked content!

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  1. Hi @ansonl, This connector made by Molex. I bought those kind of connector from RS-Components, besides selling all kind of electronics they are also a Ultimaker dealer.. There is only crimping pins made for this connector, so You'll also need an SN series crimping tool. The RS Part numbers are: 2 pole connector: 296-4956 Crimping pin......: 467-598 Crimping tool.....: SN-01BM (or equivalent). I just made a picture of those parts. And a link to this connector (RS-components): https://uk.rs-online.c
  2. Hi @Umo_Alex, Yes, this is the one I'm using.. By the way, mostly all of this stuff is made in China.. Torgeir
  3. Hi @skint, I'd never seen such an arrangement for the temp sensor in an UM-2. I'll guess this is kind of "hack", -in order to avoid open the whole printer in order to change the PT-100 temp sensor. You have to order a new original PT-100 sensor for the UM-2, this as the sensor come as a complete unit with wiring directly connected to the sensor and a connector in the other end -to be installed into the main PCB (located under the printer). Did you managed to remove the old PT-100 capsule. (PS., there is a kind of metal filter seen on one of the cooling fa
  4. Hi there, Sure, did not think about the locking tabs and sure agree about the orientation for the strength issue. However, if you go for the nylon -you can print with the flat part down, but the print temperature is important here. Actually I made a bearing in nylon for our dishwasher's upper water spreader (propeller), as the old one cracked after 33 years of use! When I made the first one, I'd selected to lo temperature (235 deg. C.). At this temperature the tabs snapped easily off, they was not properly bounded to the main body. So I experimented a little and found 25
  5. Hi @Benjamin4456, Welcome in here. Would not it be better to orient the object with the flat part toward the bed, like this. CE3PRO_321692661_CE3PRO_BoltHoleCoverClipv3_petg_ex.3mf Thanks Torgeir
  6. Great. Thanks Torgeir
  7. Hi @Umo_Alex, Use Google and search with this text: "dell D2950P-01". You should have better luck.. Thanks Regard Torgeir
  8. Hi there. The max size is 32GB, this is the limit for all types of SD cards on Arduino. Arduino only supports SD and SDHC (max 32 GB). Cards that's larger than 32GB are of type "SDXC" and are not supported by the Arduino libraries as far as I'll know. I've used 32 GB since 2016 with no issue, -and I'll never erase any files from this SD and sure it'll take some time to fill it up!.. Just counter rotate when (on Ultimaker printers for sure) looking for the last installed file -and it is the first -easy. There is no issue us
  9. Hi @RogueWave, All the files is here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wind-turbine-with-tutorial It may take sometime to connect. Thanks Torgeir
  10. Hi @scurrscurr, Yes, you're right - but this is the normal max (215mm) when using a single nozzle either left or right (alone). If you want to use the full X span (233 mm), you'll need to use both nozzles using two AA nozzle here -kind of unpractical for this print.. As you printer can print a "little" wider, -as you wanted, you actually adjust the settings for both axis 3 mm wider! The distance will be increase on the RIGHT side for the X axe and toward the front for the Y axe. This is because both end (stop) switches is located in the inner left
  11. Hi Folks, When I've look into this -I'll just wonder.. You just don't throw an Ultimaker UM2+ into the bin, -because you do not want to invest -say say some 90Euro.. Also, -all the sign you've mentioned in here are pointing to a FAULTY power supply! The power supply "is" the hardest "working" device in your printer and they can and will fail at some age. In fact about 85% (some say more), of any fault of electronic devices are found in the power supply region... I did a quick search for this power supply and found that the Digi-key have more t
  12. Hi @CondorDave, Been a little occupied lately.. I've imported your F360 file, found that it's consisted of 3 parts. There is a function in F360 "join parts", this makes your model "water tight" a solid joined model. Maybe this was a problem for the conversion to stl format.? Cant tell, but for sure I've never had any problem like this with F360. (For this conversion I've used the setting medium density of triangles.) As you may know, last version of F360 had some errors -just to be mentioned. The latest version is just issued. Here is a p
  13. Hi @CondorDave, Welcome in here. It appear that there is something missing in your Fusion360 file. All of my slicers show this missing area.. So a copy of your file (from Fusion 360) will be handy. Thanks Torgeir
  14. Hi @guna, If the front fan is not working properly, heat will climb upward and heat up the upper "cold" side of the extruder. This lead to that the filament start softening here and will soon be stuck. The feeder wheel will then grind into the filament and soon spinning free. The forward cooling fan is there just to prevent this to happen and keeping the upper part "cold". The fan may be blocked by collected "stringing" material into the fan blades. But can also occur due to an open wire in the two feeding wires for this fan, but if this happen the fan would n
  15. Hi @sproutdesign, You mentioned that the filament cracked when trying to pull it out, -so maybe your filament have attracted to "much" water from the air (some high humidity air)? In such case -PLA will/can be brittle. Also this can force melted filament to go upward into the "cold part" of the extruder. The filament might be kind of glued stuck and may lead to grinding the filament at the feeder wheel. This happen when water affected filament arrive the heat block and the pressure inside the heat block violently rice.. When the nozzle is at the first layers, littl
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