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Torgeir

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Torgeir last won the day on March 12

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Personal Information

  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S3
    Ultimaker 2 (Ext
    +)
  • Country
    NO
  • Industry
    Engineering

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Community Answers

  1. Hi @AD5CDA, You may zip the video file the attach in here, should work. Thanks Torgeir
  2. Hi @Schmordan, I'll know you have lots of relevant good advises about your problem. However, the printed object above are about the best result we can expect to have printing with a FDM 3D printer. So, allow me to introduce another "hidden" issue -and this is about printing with white colored filament! This color need more cooling when printed, it is better to stay in the lo end of temperature and speed with this filament. It's very much related to the color itself, but also to the type of thermoplastic type printed (heat collect properties). Thermal consequences of color and near-infrared reflectance play an important role in this issue. Dark color (black are the best) have very good properties for 3D printing, but the lighter the color become will need just a little more time to melt... White colored filament do not absorb heat as fast as black (or other dark filament) and are also harder to cool down because those radiation properties! My last take here are about drying this type of filament. You'll need forced heat flow, meaning a food dryer for about 10 hour. I could say a lot about this issue, but think this should cover whats matter. This worked best for me. Anyway, good luck with your printing. Torgeir
  3. Hi @kpporsche. Hmm., you probably want some tip about printing with TPU using UM2 types.. @gr5 have lots of stuff about printing with UM printers. See this one and his posting 2nd of February 23. Moderator 2,149 66 17,187 posts Posted February 23 · The Mighty UM2go By the way, I've printed ninjaflex (extremely flexible) on a UM2 series. It involves some tricks. One of which is to put a drop of oil on the filament before inserting into the bowden and adding an additional drop every meter or so (about once per hour). I have more explicit instructions on this forum. 90% of people hate the idea of oil going through the nozzle and think it will do something bad like add holes in the print or something but it works perfectly. Perfectly! Trust me. Other things I had to do to get zero underextrusion was to slow down to 10mm/sec (only if you need it absolutely perfect print) and print on the high-side of the recommended temp range. And lots of fan. Also I had to up the flow rate.
  4. Hi @kpporsche, Welcome in here. The posting you're looking for is here: Good luck Torgeir
  5. Hi there, From Cura ver. 5.5.0 they implemented some new functions into Cura, here is the actual issue: Excerpt from Cura 5.5.0 text file. ---------------------- "Enable Fluid Motion, Fluid Motion Shift Distance, Fluid Motions Small Distance, and Fluid Motion Angle are settings for printers with smooth motion planners like Klipper." ---------------------- Thanks Torgeir
  6. Hi @borgn, I'll say this was a very interesting object, with quite a few challenges. By learning from the other's experience with this model, I've made another approach. So, as I've another slicer S3D (Simplify 3), I loaded this big model in here and it took a little more than a minute. I was using the oldest version 3.1.0 of S3D (from 2016). This slicer have a built in mesh tools that also can reduce the number of triangles of an object. This futuric ship consisted of more than 27 million triangles, so in order to avoid to much loss of details, I reduced it just to a little more than 3 million of triangles and ~152 Mb. Also made a version with less details and only ~2.5 Mb. The "shipv5.stl" may be used in the (free version of) Autodesk Meshmixer, that's a tool for repairing those errors in this model. Sure this takes some time, but can be done. There are lots of videos on youtube demonstrating the meshmixer. Here are the link to the free version of "Autodesk Meshmixer" https://meshmixer.com/ The model suffer for the vertical posts in a railing around the after part, those are easy seeing missing when sliced. Cura Arackne ver 5.6.0 will show this, but I'll think the version of Cura Master are better suited to show all thous issues when using layer view after model is sliced. Here are a picture of your Ship loaded into Autodesk Meshmixer: Here are another picture of the Ship sliced in Cura 5.6.0 using "both" found in "Special Mode" by selecting "normal" and then "both". Under "Normal" you'll find two other settings, "Surface" and "Both", a handy tools for understanding slicing problems. Here are the reduced files: Shipv5.stl (high res). 150.4 Mb. shipv5.stl Shipv4.stl (lo res). 2.4 Mb shipv4.stl A project file for UM2E+ UM2E_Cura_5_6_0_shipv4.3mf --------------------------------------------- Well, hope this work for you. Good luck. Torgeir
  7. Aha, ok., then it sure making sense. 🙂 Torgeir
  8. Hi @bartek, I've just looked at this special "vase", -kind of interesting. However, are you really using a 0.4 nozzle and 0.6 mm line height? In my opinion, this line height is way to much for a 0.4 mm. Or did I miss something here? Using Cura Ver. 5.60 and found your printer to be a Neptune 1. The profile are: Dyza 1mm vase - fine - 0.6 mm (but your nozzle is 0.4 mm). Thanks Torgeir
  9. Hi @Dana, I've been using the "free personal version" for some years (need to renewed every year). Fusion 360 can be obtained free for personal use and you can export stl files directly to Cura.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Autodesk Fusion 360 for personal use is free online CAD for qualifying non-commercial users as a 3-year subscription. Download Autodesk Fusion 360 for personal use." ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the place to go. https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal Thanks Torgeir
  10. Hi @Mr_Stark1981 Sure, anything is possible, so in this case you're looking for "surface mode", that you'll find in the menu "Special Modes". Under "Preference" click "Configure Cura", then select "Settings" and chose "Setting Visibility" to "Check All". But you can also search setting "Surface Mode" and the setting become visible. From here you can do lot's of the thing you want... Good Luck. Torgeir
  11. Hi there -and thanks Greg for bringing me into this while in sunny Spain... As this is and old topics, -never had an answer I'll throw in my five pence. I've been printing quite a lot with the 0,25mm nozzle in order to create small object's there are some issues when printing whit this "tiny" nozzles.. I'll normally do not print over a large surface using this small nozzle. With such a size of nozzle I'm printing in a limited area in order to avoid surface dumps.. This is a lesson learned some time ago, printing a tiny film surface of nylon, -including an object. At this time, I've used my original heat bed (glass bed), but the print always failed due to a "bumpy" surfaced glass bed (using my UM2E)! As I very much neded to finish this print for a friend, I'd looked at my UM S3 that have the same print bed size as the UM2E.. Sure, I've swapped the bed between the two and mirackle happend. The day after, I've ordered a new heat bed glas for my UM2E. If this is a problem, -order the new and better glas bed for your UM2+... So, making first layer with a 0.25mm nozzle, in order to print on large surface need a super straight ruler in order to make sure that your heat bed is straight! Sure the bed needs to be calibrated well for such a mission. Sometimes a covered front and top are needed to keep the tempereture right to avoid crimping object etc. Good luck Torgeir
  12. Hi @RealShe_Cheer, Welcome in here and Happy New Year. Well, We'll need to know what printer you have as some printers may not have this commands implemented. Cura does not have an easy way to do this. Lots of people use OctoPrint, here: https://octoprint.org/blog/2022/05/17/new-release-1.8.0/ Or Arduino, but this latter one is a little harder to use. I'll think OctoPrint are the best one for this issue.. Here is a tread covering a few different approaches to send a command and have a feedback from the printer. https://3dprinterly.com/how-to-send-g-code-to-your-3d-printer-the-right-way/ In here are lot's of people with "all" kind of 3D printers, so telling what printer you have and your problem with it may help a lot. Thanks Torgeir
  13. Hi there, This cable run on the R/H side (looking into the printer) on both the S3 and S5 -versions (but S5 cable are some inches extended).. The R/H side, inner cover over the stepper motor, are attached the same.. Here's Erin's link of to replace the whole cable for the "print head" for an UMS3.. https://www.ultimakernasupport.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187366-Electronics-Board Here's a link that describe the difference between the various version of S5, S5 R1 and S5 R2 (R - revision).: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667337576879 Here's a link to face book S5 support.: https://www.facebook.com/groups/UltimakerS5/ As @alnavasa just finished his "overhaul" of an UM S5 R1, he might have some valuable tip for you. Well, Happy New Year everyone. Good luck Torgeir
  14. Hi @aag, Here's some video's about your issue. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Replacing+S5+prinhead+cable+eirin#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:539b7388,vid:69T74xZiveQ,st:0 Good luck. Torgeir
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