g7kbr67
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Posts posted by g7kbr67
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Hi all
I am changing hard drives over on my main 3dPrinter PC. I would like to backup the settings so when I installed the software on my new drive, I can then copy of the ini file if that's what its extension name is. From the old to the new, is this possible, can anyone point me in the location of the file? I will be installing the latest released Ultimaker Cura version.
Regards
Paul
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13 hours ago, Carla_Birch said:
I don’t personally use glue sticks but I know most that do rub lines across the print area and then use a damp rag to make a thin even layer of the glue across the print area.
Without seeing the print settings it’s hard to say as you want to keep the heated bed on still at around 50-60c and then the first layer height should be bigger than the rest.
outside of the settings the other factors for printers without auto levelling is to make sure the build plate is level and that the right gap between it and the nozzle is set.
but the fact you have the headed bed off is likely the main factor, so set it back to 60c even more so with long and flat parts
Hi
So I’ll try with same type of PrittStick and have plate heat on at 50 oC throughout the print. I’d that correct? I have checked the plate settings plus use a thin receipt as a adjust guide.
Regards
Paul
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7 hours ago, Carla_Birch said:
Hi,
To be honest with PLA and a glass heated bed you should not need any blue tape at all, if anything you are making it less likely to stick. Just rub some PVA glue on the glass in a thin even layer, or use one of the many sprays you can get like 3D Lac what i personally use.
Long as you have got your bed level right and first layer settings right, you will not have any problems at all.
If there any reason why you have picked to put blue tape on the glass?
Hi
well I have turned table heat off and just used a Pritt-stick for adhesion. The quality of print looks good. But the item has lifted on one side.
What could I do to try and fix this. See attached photos.
Regards
Paul
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Hi all
After a bit of YouTubing, I tried sticking more blue tap round the base. This did help but then after laying the first couple of layers down I turned the plate heat down from 60 oC to 20 oC. Seems to be looking better, all noted about having no plate heat and not too use blue tape for PLA.
Thanks once again for the help, as you can tell I am very new to 3D printing.
Regards
Paul
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Hi all.
i seem to have issues with my print lifting on the tape. It’s PLA plate temp is 60 oC and the print head is at 200 oC. As you can see from the photo’s the print looks good. But it’s lifting for some reason?
can anyone assist.
Regards
Paul
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Hi
Did you find a UK supplier for the fan at the rear of the heatshink? My UM2 is working but is very noisy.
Need to find a UK supplier myself.
Regards
Paul
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Hi Torgneir
I have just emailed @gr5
Did you see my first print? i have attached a jpg, its not easy to check out as its in black. But it looks like its fine.
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23 hours ago, Torgeir said:
Hi Paul,
Yes, I'll think @gr5 have a kit that is based on a 1:2 gear designed by @meduza.
This is a good design IMO, but I do not think you can turn the feeder unit at this one, unless it is modified for for this. If this happen you can use it on both sides and with the original feeder unit turned (reversed). Maybe it can be modified to use the release handle I'm using?
I'll think this might be a good combination.
I'm sure gr5 can give an advice here. 🙂
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi Torgeir
These feeder updates for the UM2 extended, can anyone supply a kit of parts with new fixing etc?
Regards
Paul
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I am looking for a replacement fan unit for my Ultimaker 2 extended the one which cools the hot print block heatsink. The one on mine is really noisy but still spins, also i read that some users have moved the fan slightly away from the heatsink. Do I need to purchase metal standoff posts and slightly longer fixings.
if anyone can supply details on fan assembly etc, i am in the UK so if RS or Farnell do them that would be great or of course ebay.
Regards
Paul
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Hi Torgeir
Well I have make the heat plat set as 60 oC and the print head is set at 200o C. But it looks like I have a flow issue, i removed material and then re-entered it and did the advance on material movement out of the print head but nothing coming out. Can't see any PLA coming out the sides, I can re-tract the material moving the control wheel the other way, then go forward.
No sure what i should try next. could it be the temperature heater not actually getting up to 200 oC?
As I say I am a newbie.
Regards
Paul
On 5/23/2020 at 2:59 PM, Torgeir said:Hi,
Well, I may jump in as I'm an owner of an UM2E (not a plus model), however modified to act as a plus model. 🙂
Heat bed 60 deg. C and nozzle at 200 for PLA, absolute max for PLA is approx 240 deg. C. But never go that high with PLA!
Different brand of PLA temp setting might differs slightly, but this values is good estimates.
For printing in the lo temperature end, you can print as lo as 180 deg. C., But just practice at 200 will be a good start.
Make sure you bed is clean, wash with mild soap, and when you feel with your fingers during last rinsing that your fingers kind of stick to the glass, then it is good. Water temp (35-40) deg. C.
Sometimes we found that the glass plate is not really flat at both sides, so I've marked mine up in the left forward corner using a permanent (black) withe boarder pen.
When adjusting the height, I am using kind of thin paper, just as the recipt from an atm.
It is important that the first layer is kind of squeezed to make it "glued" to the heat bed.
To remove the printed object we need to use a tiny sharp blade, I've found that the painters paint remover to be used when removing dried paint is the best tool for this. But, before trying to remove the printed object, let it cool down -then it will be easy to remove. When the printed objects underside (bed side) can be used as a mirror, your first layer is really good.
Anyway, happy 3D printing and good luck.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Thanks all for your help, I am going to try and do a test print on Thursday and see how it all goes. Will feedback my results then, finger grossed all works.
Reference Torgeir's update from standard to plus, I wonder what you invested your money in regard upgrade parts? For the moment I will see how my tests go and if goes well I might ask what the cheaper update parts are. I am not keen on spending £500 on the official upgrade kit to a plus.
Regards
Paul
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After reading your message, I also have a ultimaker 2 and am not able to spend the 400 for the 2+ kit. What would be the cost of a new print head assemble.
Also I had to replace the bearing housing the other day as it had cracked. All went well but i had to cut the 1 inch black heat shrink off as I wasn't able to feed the white connectors through it. At the moment it cut the heat shrink off. Do I have any other options for this area. I could purchase some new unshrunk material and fit or is their any rap around material I could use.
Regards
Paul
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Hi
Thanks for this information, I am assuming I need to setup temperatures on head and build plate?
Also on setup you can enable the two side fans as a percentage. I wonder what I should set this up as?
Regards
Paul
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Hi all
I have a Ultimaker 2 extended and I an very new to the 3D printer journey.
I have installed PLA material and recalibrated the bed 1mm (paper also used for getting the gap correct) on both 3 corners. in the setup I have confirmed material comes out of the head. But when i try and print the ultimaker robot all the pla doesn't stick to the bed. The Bed is clean and I have just put a thin layer of britt stick on it.
The fan on the back is running but i haven't seen the two side ones come on yet.
See attached photos.
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Ok, I’ll wait and see how bearing asssembly repair goes. Then look at doing the upgrade to plus.
can you confirm what software would be best to create designs and then build them for printing?
regards
Paul
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Hi all
I have been gifted a Ultimaker 2 extended via my work. Its not had a lot us use. But not been used for a year or so, but after I turned the unit on I noticed the plastic bearing assemble had cracked, see attached photo. I have managed to purchase a new assemble from https://www.makershop3d.com which cost £21.00. I just wondered if I should also go for the head upgrade once I know it prints ok? So I turn it into a ultimaker 2 + extended. I see the cost is about £400 + VAT, which could be a gamble? Or do I go for a complete alternative 3D printer.
Also what's the best software to download so I can design then printer a plastic assemble.
Your advice would be great.
Regards
Paul
Backup of the settings for the software installed on my PC, installing onto new hard drive
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Do I need to copy these folders and files over to the new installed build of Ultimaker software or us the cloud based backup via , extensions> cura backup on the software?
Regards
Paul