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william

The new hot end parts, does it help?

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Hi,

I bought my ultimaker in june. Since then I have a constant problem with the tube poping out, I tried to solve that with a very strong glue, but this caused filament grinding. Today however after tightening the extruder part so tight the tube came loose again (you can`t believe the frustration at that moment).

I took a look at that new hot end, the white little tube (I think its called teflon insulator) can it solve my issues, or is useless for me? I`m kinda losing hope that my printer will ever work properly for longer then 4 hours :(

Oh and do I have to buy the entire hot end kit or just this part: https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades/teflon-insulator.html?

thx in advance,

Sorry for my bad English.

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(I don't see any bad English)

The teflon insulator won't fit in your V1 hotend setup, because the wooden plates are slightly different for this part. The V2 hotend also adds a few other changes that help against plugs and other problems. It also comes with a better version of the white clip, which grips better then the old version.

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I put the new hot end parts on and I have to say that up until now I've had no problems with it. Very pleased with the difference. I also got a new Bowden tube to replace my original, which has also vastly improved printing as the old one was a tiny bit too narrow, causing some print fibres to get stuck. That might be the cause of your problems, try pushing the fibre through the Bowden by hand. If it won't move smoothly, ask for another tube, there was a batch of narrow ones produced around the same time as our printers, you might be unlucky with your pipe as I was with mine.

One other thing (and I feel kind of ashamed for suggesting this). I could never understand why folks seemed to have problems with their Bowden tube popping off the fitting on the print head. Then, after I rebuilt my V2 hotend, I suddenly had no end of problems with the tube popping out. Turned out I'd put the blue (or white) clampy part in the wrong way. The clampy part with the metal blades inside it needs to be pushed down from the top, so that as it is pulled out of the tapered hole it grips the Bowden tube more tightly the harder it is pulled.

When I reassembled the head I forgot this, thinking it needed to be pushed up from the bottom, with the C sharped clip then being used to close the grip around the pipe. This is wrong. The C shaped clip is actually used to push the clampy part (are you still with me here?) away from the top and make it engage with the Bowden tube. If you have got this wrong you will have problems like I did.

I did some tests with the old Bowden tube and the discarded top of my old print head and I just could not pull the pipe out by hand when the clamp was in properly. Make sure that the clampy part is in the right way and that the C clip is pushing it away so that the little metal blades engage with the plastic of the tube.

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Even with the white clip installed the correct way, sometimes the tube could pop. I know, because I actually assembled 2 machines with this problem already, both with someone from UM present. (First my dual extrusion setup, later another machine for someone else)

The V2 does remove the plugging problem, even if you have a bowden pop. So it's much easier to fix then.

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Do you need to reassemble to print head everytime the bowden tube comes out? I was trying to get my first print to run and the damn thing popped right out. It took a lot of force before it did. I wasn't getting any plastic to extrude and I had the right temperature and everything so I just kept pushing harder.

I didn't use the version 2 hot end because the instructions were just useless.

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