UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
It depends on so many factors that it's hard to make a single design guide.
For example, if you use support, a raft and a heated printer bed, then almost anything goes.
I always try to print without support (done a few with support, but didn't really like the result), I've never used a raft, and I don't have a printed bed. And these are the design guides I use for myself:
[*:3c6qbsbe]Try to keep overhang to about 45deg, but sometimes go up to 60deg [*:3c6qbsbe]The first layer can be problematic. Lots of corners make it worse, less corners is better. For example the bucket o' octopi on thingiverse is not a difficult print in the first layer, because it has only 8 real corners in the tentacle tips. But lettered text has lots of 90 deg corners on the first layer. Different printer settings might help here. So it's no a perfect guideline [*:3c6qbsbe]Largest face downwards. Always rotate your model so the largest face is sitting on the bed. This makes topping it over harder. [*:3c6qbsbe]Avoid multiple "towers" to avoid strings. If everything in a layer is interconnected you won't get strings at all. [*:3c6qbsbe]If you configure skeinforge to do "Loops" before "Perimiter" (it's a setting in the infill) then you can get away with about 1mm of 90deg overhang.
The ultimaker is a very good machine, and it can print stuff that other machines fail at. So model away! And fix the issues later.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
In the Cura 5.8 stable release, everyone can now tune their Z seams to look better than ever. Method series users get access to new material profiles, and the base Method model now has a printer profile, meaning the whole Method series is now supported in Cura!
We are happy to announce the next evolution in the UltiMaker 3D printer lineup: the UltiMaker Factor 4 industrial-grade 3D printer, designed to take manufacturing to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Factor 4 is an end-to-end 3D printing solution for light industrial applications
Recommended Posts
Daid 306
It depends on so many factors that it's hard to make a single design guide.
For example, if you use support, a raft and a heated printer bed, then almost anything goes.
I always try to print without support (done a few with support, but didn't really like the result), I've never used a raft, and I don't have a printed bed. And these are the design guides I use for myself:
[*:3c6qbsbe]The first layer can be problematic. Lots of corners make it worse, less corners is better. For example the bucket o' octopi on thingiverse is not a difficult print in the first layer, because it has only 8 real corners in the tentacle tips. But lettered text has lots of 90 deg corners on the first layer. Different printer settings might help here. So it's no a perfect guideline
[*:3c6qbsbe]Largest face downwards. Always rotate your model so the largest face is sitting on the bed. This makes topping it over harder.
[*:3c6qbsbe]Avoid multiple "towers" to avoid strings. If everything in a layer is interconnected you won't get strings at all.
[*:3c6qbsbe]If you configure skeinforge to do "Loops" before "Perimiter" (it's a setting in the infill) then you can get away with about 1mm of 90deg overhang.
The ultimaker is a very good machine, and it can print stuff that other machines fail at. So model away! And fix the issues later.
Link to post
Share on other sites