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mastory

Design Guide for 3d printed parts

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It depends on so many factors that it's hard to make a single design guide.

For example, if you use support, a raft and a heated printer bed, then almost anything goes.

I always try to print without support (done a few with support, but didn't really like the result), I've never used a raft, and I don't have a printed bed. And these are the design guides I use for myself:

 

  • [*:3c6qbsbe]Try to keep overhang to about 45deg, but sometimes go up to 60deg
    [*:3c6qbsbe]The first layer can be problematic. Lots of corners make it worse, less corners is better. For example the bucket o' octopi on thingiverse is not a difficult print in the first layer, because it has only 8 real corners in the tentacle tips. But lettered text has lots of 90 deg corners on the first layer. Different printer settings might help here. So it's no a perfect guideline
    [*:3c6qbsbe]Largest face downwards. Always rotate your model so the largest face is sitting on the bed. This makes topping it over harder.
    [*:3c6qbsbe]Avoid multiple "towers" to avoid strings. If everything in a layer is interconnected you won't get strings at all.
    [*:3c6qbsbe]If you configure skeinforge to do "Loops" before "Perimiter" (it's a setting in the infill) then you can get away with about 1mm of 90deg overhang.

 

The ultimaker is a very good machine, and it can print stuff that other machines fail at. So model away! And fix the issues later.

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