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mastory

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mastory last won the day on December 6 2023

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker Original
  • Country
    US
  • Industry
    (Product) design
    Engineering

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  1. Ich sehe jetzt, dass Cura 5.1.0 alternative Firmwares hochladen kann. Ich habe einige Hinweise gesehen, dass ein Computer-Reset zusammen mit dem Laden von Tinkerware erforderlich ist. Wird dies noch benötigt? I now see that Cura 5.1.0 can upload alternate firmwares. I have seen some notes that a machine reset is necessary along with loading Tinkerware. Is this still required?
  2. Ich habe auch ein Problem mit zu viel Extrusion zu Beginn eines Drucks auf meinem UM2+ext. Ich finde keine Möglichkeit, es zu deaktivieren oder zu reduzieren. Meine Firmware-Version ist _2.6.2ex, von der ich annehme, dass sie alt ist. Ich kann keine Ressource finden, die die verfügbaren Firmware-Versionen definiert. Ich glaube, wenn ich meinen PC mit laufendem Cura an die Maschine anschließe, kann ich die offizielle aktuelle Version von UM installieren. Wird es mir zuerst sagen, welche Version? Ich glaube, die TinerGnome-Version ist wahrscheinlich besser. Ich habe diese Version heruntergeladen, die ich für richtig halte: Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2extendedPlus-17.10.1.hex Welche Methode verwende ich, um die Tinkergnome-Firmware zu installieren? Kann es mit Cura 5.1.0 gemacht werden? Danke schön Im englischen Original: I too have a problem with too much extrusion at the start of a print on my UM2+ext. I can't find a way to turn it off or reduce it. My firmware version is _2.6.2ex which I expect is old. I cannot find a resource that defines the firmware versions that are available. I believe if I connect my pc with Cura running to the machine I can install the official current version from UM. Will it tell me first what version? I beleive the TinerGnome version is probably superior. I have downloaded this version which I believe is correct: Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2extendedPlus-17.10.1.hex What method do I use to install the tinkergnome firmware? Can it be done with Cura 5.1.0? Many Thanks
  3. Before I upgraded my stepper drivers on my UMO, I added some rubber feet made from automotive heater hose. It was what I has on hand and it made the printer much quieter. A difference in print quality was not noticed. I printed some simple cylinders with a through hole for mounting. The OD is a slight press fit for 1 inch hose. Screwed them to the bottom. Pushed on 4 pieces of hose somewhat longer than the spacers.
  4. I tried to register. Still no pin in the map. Have any of the participants been contacted for assistance?
  5. I filled out the form, but see nothing added to the map. Is this because I am an individual, or a glitch in the form automation? I have 2 Ultimakers that can be available. One is dedicated to ABS, the other flexible for many types. I have ample stock in ABS ans PLA on hand.
  6. There are actually quite a few ways to create an stl from a topo map. This site works ok, but the cropping and manipulation of the map pre download is awkward and kind of imprecise in my opinion. No control over the aspect ratio. http://jthatch.com/Terrain2STL/ This site works good. I think it's been tweaked for the good since my last attempt. https://touchterrain.geol.iastate.edu/ I am importing the gray scales into Cura 4.3.0 and using the import utility to generate the STL. I am not sure where I got the map I am currently using. Maybe from Google. The map you tested looks alot like the one I used. My subtract solid adds radii on the 4 rectangular corners and vertically all around in a sweep.
  7. I figured it out. Select the model you want to use as a subtract solid. Set the "modify settings for overlapping models" for this solid. Then pick "select settings". You can then set whatever slice settings you want for this piece. If you set wall thickness, top/bottom and infill to 0, the piece will be regarded as a subtract from the other models.
  8. Thanks for your thoughts Geert. I have created empty voids by subtraction in CAD, but never by placing an STL inside another. What I'm referring to is actually very similar to the support blocker function. Although I don't know if the support blockers are made up of STL files.. Those can be partially interfering a support and/or the printed model. Any portion that interferes the model is ignored, but the interfered support is effectively cut away. I can tell you that I've done the practice in question in the past few months. I just don't remember the exact steps. It is an unintended function in Cura. I'm not sure which versions. To me it worked without qualification like a boolean subtract in CAD. Given that, I think it could fairly easily be added as an intended function. The project at hand is a hand held topographical map of a ski area. My primary model was extracted as grey scale from a topographic map. This PNG file was imported into CURA like a lithophane with the model thickness relative to grey scale. This makes a model that is an accurate topo model, but it has sharp corners. Not a friendly shape for carrying in your pocket. I don't know a way to easily apply chamfers and radii to an existing STL model. What I can do easily, is model a subtract solid in Solidworks and export that to STL. In this case, the subtraction STL is shaped like a picture frame with an contoured inside edge. The shape cuts the exterior of the map with large radii. A cylinder was placed in the subtract model to create a lanyard hole in the map.
  9. I did this once before. There is a way to "modify settings for overlap with other models" and/or "modify settings for infill of other models" (in per model settings) that results in one of the models (overlapping the other) having basically 0 wall, 0 infill and 0 skin, and effectively performing a boolean subtract within the slicer. Can someone remind me of the specifics of this method? Thanks
  10. Is there a change log for the new version?
  11. I see that the part wall there is actually triangular when viewed top down sectioned through that area. If I change my normal .8mm wall size to.6, the surface is filled in. If it doesn't affect function, I'd prefer to keep the thicker wall. I am printing this in ABS on my UMO. The only nozzle available for my UMO currently is a .9mm. Not sure how well that would print at .6mm.
  12. I am seeing an anomaly in the way Cura is slicing the clamping dock. Will this open hole in the planar face of the cone feature have any effect on docking function? Thanks
  13. Nice work Snowball. Tell us which scanner and software you used to achieve these great results.
  14. I finally picked up a second hand UM2+E to add Mark2. I have a few questions as I get started. Does anyone have any good or bad experience with using Makergeeks Raptor PLA for the printed pieces? I happen to have a roll of it. Same question goes for ABS. Thanks
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