UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
I am not an expert with printing ABS, but I did print with ABS on a similar 3d printer. What I found out is that ABS needs to be hotter than PLA to stick to other layers. The heated bed can also be replaced with a "raft", which will give waste but you wont need a heated bed. Only need to make sure that the raft sticks to the bed. (I used an acrylic bed, but balsa seems to work too).
I never had problems with warping. I printed little shotglasses and chess pieces without problems. My rule of thumb is that the heat should be around 240-245C for ABS, and never print big or long prints.
Unfortunately my goal is to print enclosures, with a bottom area of about 100x100 mm and walls that may go up 100mm as well. This would probably be considered big compared to chess pieces and shotglasses :-)
Link to post
Share on other sites
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
Recommended Posts
mr_seeker 0
I am not an expert with printing ABS, but I did print with ABS on a similar 3d printer. What I found out is that ABS needs to be hotter than PLA to stick to other layers. The heated bed can also be replaced with a "raft", which will give waste but you wont need a heated bed. Only need to make sure that the raft sticks to the bed. (I used an acrylic bed, but balsa seems to work too).
I never had problems with warping. I printed little shotglasses and chess pieces without problems. My rule of thumb is that the heat should be around 240-245C for ABS, and never print big or long prints.
Link to post
Share on other sites