Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
z-axis-3d

Taulman 618 Nylon

Recommended Posts

I have been asked for a part to be printed in 618. The customer wanted this material for it's chemical / fuel resistance. I have used Bridge Nylon too and I know that generally this is easier to print but this post is about 618 specifically, so I am looking for any advice from those who may have experience with this material.

Having read up on the material on Taulman's site and elswhere, I am printing on Tufnol Whale Board, and drying the material in the oven before printing. In fact I am making a little drying box to run the material from, but that is a work-in-progress. The part requires some support, and arguably I could have managed without using Tufnol, but I bought a 1mm sheet and stuck it to a piece of glass with broad double sided tape. I also bought 4mm tufnol but have not tried that yet.

Photo_-_Google_Photos_-_Google_Chrome_2016-09-26_12-20-02.thumb.png.c19c5fdd7b26632019ce176187e5afc4.png

So with Tufnol bed adhesion has not been a problem.

I tried to print at the recommended 245° at 30mm/s but I had delamination when trying to remove the part from the tufnol.

I then tried 250° and used a blade to remove the part, but when I was removing the support I had some delamination on the actual part so the bond was obviously not good. In places the Nylon darkens and looks a little burned, especially when the print speed slows down for the smaller layers.

But most mysteriously of all is that when I chose a particular orientation where there were 2 little lugs at the top, they simply refused to print- I tried 3 times using different temperature and speed settings and it's like the material just jammed as soon as it got to the smaller layers, and the little lugs simply never materialised. I have never had an issue quite like this with any other material.

So by the time it gets to this point:

Petrol_Tank_Bobbin-_Solid_for_greg_(2)_-_Simplify3_2016-09-26_12-38-41.thumb.png.98fb9946fbe330545bfeaef51e8df840.png

it will have stopped printing. I can't see anything in the preview that should cause this.

Anybody here have any insights, or just general advice for printing 618 in addition to what I have said above?

Thanks,

Greg

Photo_-_Google_Photos_-_Google_Chrome_2016-09-26_12-20-02.thumb.png.c19c5fdd7b26632019ce176187e5afc4.png

Petrol_Tank_Bobbin-_Solid_for_greg_(2)_-_Simplify3_2016-09-26_12-38-41.thumb.png.98fb9946fbe330545bfeaef51e8df840.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The following response by email from Tom at Taulman helped me and I was able to get a pretty decent print with Bridge. I know I said this Post is not about Bridge, but about 618, but as it's been made obsolete this might help.

Hi Greg.....Tom here.... Bridge is as chemical resistant as 618 and easier to print. We suggest users use Bridge as we have made 618

obsolete last week. The dehydrator looks good....nice design, Greg. Bridge can print to 265C if needed and yes, slow ing down helps.

Also, we suggest increasing flow....the multiplier to 1.1 on some prints. for a .4mm nozzle, we suggest 32mm/s print speed and 50% for perimeters.

Let me know and if need be, we will replace the spool as it's important to us to keep you printing.

The real secret is Dry...Dry..Dry..!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is what my dryer looks like BTW. Made with a "Really Useful Box"; a 40W bulb with a dimmer; and low-friction-um2-spoolholder

Needs a cage around the bulb but it seems to work OK

Photo_-_Google_Photos_-_Google_Chrome_2016-10-06_13-54-58.thumb.jpg.9bd905b581e1d98f27d314d3b4b72a72.jpg

I printed on Glass with a 50% Evo-stik wood glue mix and the part stuck well.

Hope this response is useful to someone even though it's now off-topic.

Photo_-_Google_Photos_-_Google_Chrome_2016-10-06_13-54-58.thumb.jpg.9bd905b581e1d98f27d314d3b4b72a72.jpg

Edited by Guest
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Announcements

  • Our picks

    • Architect Design Contest | Vehicles.
      We're open for entries! - Design and submit your 3D designs of architectural entourage - vehicles - for a chance to win a large filament pack. Presenting an idea, an architectural design or something as big as an urban project isn't easy. A scaled model can really help to get your idea across.
        • Like
      • 24 replies
    • What The DfAM?
      I'm Steve Cox, an experienced engineer familiar with 3D printing. I wanted to share some DfAM guidelines with this community to help and make stronger parts.
      I'm also an Autodesk Certified Instructor for Fusion 360, so many of the images in ...
        • Thanks
        • Like
      • 22 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!