In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
Hi there! Welcome to the forum.
Apologies for the following wall of words.
Polycarbonate is a challenging material (read: pain in the butt!). It warps worse then ABS and getting it to stick to the print bed is a real challenge. It also (at least the older, non-optimized stuff) needs higher temperatures, like 300C.
Some people have had success though. And I have had some very limited success.
A couple questions:
1) What printer are you using? Is it an Ultimaker or something else? The print bed is different on different printers and it makes a difference in your PC experiences. e.g. Ultimaker's have glass plates, TAZes use PEI tape as their surface, etc.
2) Who's PC are you using (what brand)? Is it one of the newer formulations explicitly designed for 3D printing, or just generic PC as a filament? If it is brand name, maybe check out what the company says about getting it to print well.
Also I wonder about printing solid. Usually solid is overkill and does not buy you much extra in strength, though maybe it can help reduce warping.
The limited success I have had to prevent warping was to use crazy glue on Kapton (polyamide?) tape for the print bed. And cranked the heated bed to 120C. My part still warped, but it warped less, and more importantly, it stayed stuck to the bed.
Buildtak seems to be a/the current recommendation, at least for the new optimized brands of PC. But it can be tricky in the other direction where is sticks too well and you cannot separate it from the Buildtak.
I have also heard of people using an acrylic sheet as the build plate. PC bonds very well to that, apparently.
Maybe check out this: http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate
Also, enclosing your printer to contain the heat is important. Search for and solving ABS warping will get you further along the path to reducing/eliminating PC warping issues.
One thing I can say for sure: PrintInZ Skins are not a good choice for PC. PC sticks so well, it pulls up the Skin off the build plate and warps anyway! (At least when using the recommended under layer of blue tape.) It also warps the Skin permanently. I had to sand mine down to get a level surface again.
Solving PC is current project of mine, but I have not pursued it much yet. Hopefully something I have said here will help you.
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