Hack for 1,75 filament on Ultimaker 2 by Lillia.net

[Alil2096 1]

Hi guys, today I present my hack for the ultimaker 2;)

It's fine for all Ultimaker 2 models (2/2+, extended and go 2/2+), and you do not have to make any big changes: D

It's similar to that e3d release recently, but mine allows us to use the 1.75 filament, which has several advantages:

1) Much easier to handle (less breaks)

2) easier to find on the market

3) availability of greater colors / materials / brands

To do this you have to have few components:

1) a wire extruder of 1.75. I have designed and realized one (that of the photos), made specially for the ultimate maker, because you do not have to change the original gear, leaving the number of extruder steps

2) a hotend: I used an e3d v6, but the support I drew (I did it) has the standard attack, so it is okay any hotend with that kind of attack

3) Printed Items: I've drawn the support for the hotend from scratch, while fan support I found it on thingiverse

In addition to these components, there are not many other things to do: you just have to rip the pid tune (via Repetier-host), change the fan's heat sink fan (the two to cool the piece remain unchanged), change some parameters Of the print area, it loses a few millimeters on xey but earns almost 1.5cm on the z axis. I use it for months, and I'm very happy

I'll leave some photos, tell me what you think;)

Thanks for watching, Lillia.net

In short, more information!

Edited May 7, 2017 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Just changing the feeder with allow to extrude, but not to print perfect. 1.75 on a 2.85 hotend is a bad idea unless you just want to extrude plastic without precision. Works? Yeah, but the filament will suffer, possibly snap under hysteresis and flex so much that the filament will twist on itself.

Ofc, to print slow without any search for precision or quality. Yeah it can work.

Remember to do constant atomics on the nozzle since the back pressure of extruding a small filament on a large area will create constant deposition of burned material along time increasing the chances of clogs.

If you don't believe it. Just wait for the summer high ambient temps and watch how the filament twist on itself inside the larger bowden tube.

[Alil2096 1]

I did not understand what you are saying. I changed both the extruder and the hotend

[neotko 1,417]

Then probably I didn't understand. Sorry!

[Alil2096 1]

Some photos of printed pieces. They were not worked after printing, this is the finish that leaves the print.

The materials are: PLA (white and red pieces), ABS (turbine) and PETG (large piece).

Printing temperature from 200 to 260 °, without any problems.

You like them? : D

www.lillia.net

[neotko 1,417]

The turbine shows a bit of excess in blobs, might be caused by retractions being too long increasing the idle time where hot material waits on the nozzle. Try to calibrate your retraction distance to optimize the print results.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20403-umo-2-um2-hotend-retract-calibration

[Alil2096 1]

Of course, i print abs with an higher temperature, for much layer's adhesion.. this is the cause of retraction's problems

If i increase the retraction distance there are same problem of extrusion, because the printer do a lot of retraction in a little time

[neotko 1,417]

Of course, i print abs with an higher temperature, for much layer's adhesion.. this is the cause of retraction's problems

If i increase the retraction distance there are same problem of extrusion, because the printer do a lot of retraction in a little time

To remove the amount of retractions as a problem I moved to bondtech double drive gear, for me it never grinded a filament.

Edited May 23, 2017 by Guest