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Print bed


tom
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I may or may not have messed up my print bed yesterday while removing some stuck plastic ;). Looking at the ultimaker lasercut schematics on thingiverse I noticed the print bed is designed for a 6mm thickness where the one that came with my kit is nearly 10.5 mm. I'm going to go about sanding it back down to a flat surface later but just in case I fudge it up I'm making the assumption that buying a 6mm thick replacement will be sufficient?

Do any of you have a recommended source for acrylic (preferably US based for shipping cost reasons) or just compatible print beds in general?

I couldn't find the dimensions anywhere on the schematics on thingiverse besides the thickness( I only checked the PDF version). Am I reading it wrong or would I need to include them separately if I gave a cutting shop the blueprints for the board from thingiverse.

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    The "early" kits (like mine) have a 6mm bed, but the 6mm bed doesn't stay perfectly straight over time. So they replaced it with a 10mm bed. You can try sanding it down, but it will be hard to get perfectly flat. You might just want to flip it around :) my bed also has a few... marks. So once I get everything in perfect order I'll just flip the bed around. But for now it's straight enough.

    You can also mail the UM team, they should be able to sell you a replacement.

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    I did try flipping it over but the board appears to be high in the center on the back side. Not sure how I managed to do it but it makes printing a real pain.

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    I may or may not have messed up my print bed yesterday while removing some stuck plastic ;). Looking at the ultimaker lasercut schematics on thingiverse I noticed the print bed is designed for a 6mm thickness where the one that came with my kit is nearly 10.5 mm. I'm going to go about sanding it back down to a flat surface later but just in case I fudge it up I'm making the assumption that buying a 6mm thick replacement will be sufficient?

    Do any of you have a recommended source for acrylic (preferably US based for shipping cost reasons) or just compatible print beds in general?

    I couldn't find the dimensions anywhere on the schematics on thingiverse besides the thickness( I only checked the PDF version). Am I reading it wrong or would I need to include them separately if I gave a cutting shop the blueprints for the board from thingiverse.

    You can get a piece of window glass from any window/glass shop near by (they usually specialize in store fronts, so they are everywhere). they should also be able to sell you a piece of plexi with the right dimensions... just measure the original one, it doesn't need to be super precise (+-5mm is fine). drilling the holes in glass requires a diamond drill bit, water (for cooling) and a little bit of patience... drilling plexi is far easier, just drill much slower and air cool the drill to prevent melting/cracking. you can also just place a smaller piece of glass on top of your warped plexi, and fix it with binder clips. PM me offlist if you have questions, or are near NYC.

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    You can get a piece of window glass from any window/glass shop near by (they usually specialize in store fronts, so they are everywhere). they should also be able to sell you a piece of plexi with the right dimensions... just measure the original one, it doesn't need to be super precise (+-5mm is fine). drilling the holes in glass requires a diamond drill bit, water (for cooling) and a little bit of patience... drilling plexi is far easier, just drill much slower and air cool the drill to prevent melting/cracking. you can also just place a smaller piece of glass on top of your warped plexi, and fix it with binder clips. PM me offlist if you have questions, or are near NYC.

    Got a couple pieces of glass cut to a variety of sizes the other day. Right now I just have one held on by binder clips to the original acrylic board. I gotta say the glass seems much easier to work with. Perhaps my board was more warped than I had originally realized.

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