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· UM3e First layer not even at back of base plate
Could be a few things.
1) Other people have commented that their glass is not level. Actual 'bowing' or uneven surfaces. Some have even called a banana shape, fat in the middle and thinner on the edges.
2) Also do a solid leveling before starting to print. I found my machine can drift a bit over time that it will not active level. This can happen for a variety of reasons. But it does require a manual leveling before you can depend on the active leveling. It can also go off level if you have bumped or pushed the plate around when removing a part. I had to start taking my plate off the bed when removing parts to keep that from happening.
3) Make sure your plate is completely clean. If it has any surface areas that are slick (Oils from hands, etc) in any amount, it will not let the filament stick to the plate evenly.
4) What are you using as a plate adhesive? I like to use a PVA slurry and some the glue stick with a wet wipe down with a damp cloth or paper towel to smooth it out. Others hairspray, one guy even uses a novel solution of salt for certain filaments. This may vary a lot with the environment and filaments used. I do not think there is a one and done solution for buildplate adhesion.
I have had this happen and it was usually one or a combo of the above issues. Although my glass has been smooth and even, so that is the one exception I was lucky with.
I have also taken to taping a piece of bubble wrap over the front to help keep the air inside the build area more even. I actually found a series of layer differences one day when I opened the doors on a nice day to get fresh air in and it made a noticeable/visual difference in my layers.
Edited by Guest
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In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
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The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
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kmanstudios 1,120
Could be a few things.
1) Other people have commented that their glass is not level. Actual 'bowing' or uneven surfaces. Some have even called a banana shape, fat in the middle and thinner on the edges.
2) Also do a solid leveling before starting to print. I found my machine can drift a bit over time that it will not active level. This can happen for a variety of reasons. But it does require a manual leveling before you can depend on the active leveling. It can also go off level if you have bumped or pushed the plate around when removing a part. I had to start taking my plate off the bed when removing parts to keep that from happening.
3) Make sure your plate is completely clean. If it has any surface areas that are slick (Oils from hands, etc) in any amount, it will not let the filament stick to the plate evenly.
4) What are you using as a plate adhesive? I like to use a PVA slurry and some the glue stick with a wet wipe down with a damp cloth or paper towel to smooth it out. Others hairspray, one guy even uses a novel solution of salt for certain filaments. This may vary a lot with the environment and filaments used. I do not think there is a one and done solution for buildplate adhesion.
I have had this happen and it was usually one or a combo of the above issues. Although my glass has been smooth and even, so that is the one exception I was lucky with.
I have also taken to taping a piece of bubble wrap over the front to help keep the air inside the build area more even. I actually found a series of layer differences one day when I opened the doors on a nice day to get fresh air in and it made a noticeable/visual difference in my layers.
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