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· UM3e First layer not even at back of base plate
Could be a few things.
1) Other people have commented that their glass is not level. Actual 'bowing' or uneven surfaces. Some have even called a banana shape, fat in the middle and thinner on the edges.
2) Also do a solid leveling before starting to print. I found my machine can drift a bit over time that it will not active level. This can happen for a variety of reasons. But it does require a manual leveling before you can depend on the active leveling. It can also go off level if you have bumped or pushed the plate around when removing a part. I had to start taking my plate off the bed when removing parts to keep that from happening.
3) Make sure your plate is completely clean. If it has any surface areas that are slick (Oils from hands, etc) in any amount, it will not let the filament stick to the plate evenly.
4) What are you using as a plate adhesive? I like to use a PVA slurry and some the glue stick with a wet wipe down with a damp cloth or paper towel to smooth it out. Others hairspray, one guy even uses a novel solution of salt for certain filaments. This may vary a lot with the environment and filaments used. I do not think there is a one and done solution for buildplate adhesion.
I have had this happen and it was usually one or a combo of the above issues. Although my glass has been smooth and even, so that is the one exception I was lucky with.
I have also taken to taping a piece of bubble wrap over the front to help keep the air inside the build area more even. I actually found a series of layer differences one day when I opened the doors on a nice day to get fresh air in and it made a noticeable/visual difference in my layers.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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kmanstudios 1,120
Could be a few things.
1) Other people have commented that their glass is not level. Actual 'bowing' or uneven surfaces. Some have even called a banana shape, fat in the middle and thinner on the edges.
2) Also do a solid leveling before starting to print. I found my machine can drift a bit over time that it will not active level. This can happen for a variety of reasons. But it does require a manual leveling before you can depend on the active leveling. It can also go off level if you have bumped or pushed the plate around when removing a part. I had to start taking my plate off the bed when removing parts to keep that from happening.
3) Make sure your plate is completely clean. If it has any surface areas that are slick (Oils from hands, etc) in any amount, it will not let the filament stick to the plate evenly.
4) What are you using as a plate adhesive? I like to use a PVA slurry and some the glue stick with a wet wipe down with a damp cloth or paper towel to smooth it out. Others hairspray, one guy even uses a novel solution of salt for certain filaments. This may vary a lot with the environment and filaments used. I do not think there is a one and done solution for buildplate adhesion.
I have had this happen and it was usually one or a combo of the above issues. Although my glass has been smooth and even, so that is the one exception I was lucky with.
I have also taken to taping a piece of bubble wrap over the front to help keep the air inside the build area more even. I actually found a series of layer differences one day when I opened the doors on a nice day to get fresh air in and it made a noticeable/visual difference in my layers.
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