UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
There are a few answers there -- some high-tech solutions and some practical solutions. But it really comes down to the environment around your printer. If you are in, say, Arizona, you can basically ignore the worry and print away! If you are in Malaysia, you'd better come up with an end to end sealed filament box chock full of dessicant to help counteract the hygroscopic thirst of that material. There are a bunch of PVAs and some are thirstier than others. I have found the Ultimaker PVA a bit hardier than I'm used to from the early days of desktop 3D printing and PVA, but I defer to other's more recent experiences for formfutura etc.
I print multiple day prints with PVA all the time in Brooklyn, sometimes in my apartment that occasionally is blasted by steam heat (not too effective for heat, but hey), and sometimes at New Lab where humidity seems fairly consistent. And I haven't seen print-destroying degradation during long prints. I usually mess up my PVA when I complete a cool project and leave the PVA on the spool when I go on the road for a few weeks. d'oh! So remember when you aren't using it to box it up. And get it fully out of that BB core!
If humidity where you print is a tough issue, you might consider grabbing one of those food dehydrators like PrintDry kit Matterhackers offers. That gives you a shot to dry it out. It maybe just cargo cult, but this seems to restore waterlogged PVA spools better than the build-plate trick. But there are community members and staff here who swear by the overnight build plate trick.
There are some great PVA resources in this forums AMA event from this past summer:
Link to post
Share on other sites
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
In the Cura 5.8 stable release, everyone can now tune their Z seams to look better than ever. Method series users get access to new material profiles, and the base Method model now has a printer profile, meaning the whole Method series is now supported in Cura!
We are happy to announce the next evolution in the UltiMaker 3D printer lineup: the UltiMaker Factor 4 industrial-grade 3D printer, designed to take manufacturing to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Factor 4 is an end-to-end 3D printing solution for light industrial applications
Recommended Posts
mattgriffin 28
Hey Shaun!
There are a few answers there -- some high-tech solutions and some practical solutions. But it really comes down to the environment around your printer. If you are in, say, Arizona, you can basically ignore the worry and print away! If you are in Malaysia, you'd better come up with an end to end sealed filament box chock full of dessicant to help counteract the hygroscopic thirst of that material. There are a bunch of PVAs and some are thirstier than others. I have found the Ultimaker PVA a bit hardier than I'm used to from the early days of desktop 3D printing and PVA, but I defer to other's more recent experiences for formfutura etc.
I print multiple day prints with PVA all the time in Brooklyn, sometimes in my apartment that occasionally is blasted by steam heat (not too effective for heat, but hey), and sometimes at New Lab where humidity seems fairly consistent. And I haven't seen print-destroying degradation during long prints. I usually mess up my PVA when I complete a cool project and leave the PVA on the spool when I go on the road for a few weeks. d'oh! So remember when you aren't using it to box it up. And get it fully out of that BB core!
If humidity where you print is a tough issue, you might consider grabbing one of those food dehydrators like PrintDry kit Matterhackers offers. That gives you a shot to dry it out. It maybe just cargo cult, but this seems to restore waterlogged PVA spools better than the build-plate trick. But there are community members and staff here who swear by the overnight build plate trick.
There are some great PVA resources in this forums AMA event from this past summer:
Link to post
Share on other sites