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I think you would best contact the manufacturers directly, such as for T-glase (is that Eastman Kodak?).
Most of us have tried printing transparent parts, but with very limited success. Due to the inevitable entrapped air, both in-between the extruded sausages as in the center of the sausages, it is very difficult to get a better clarity than "frosted glass" or shattered glass. This is good enough to show a watermark, and let some light shine through. Suitable for model trains, and lenses for rear lights of bikes. But far from usefull for long real light guides and optical datacables. Another problem are surface defects due to layer lines, which act like lenses and which deform the light path. All these defects combined will probably play a much greater role in the disturbance of the ligth than the pure material characteristics. For good transparency, you will have to mould and cast, I think.
See these blocks (20mm x 10mm x 10mm), with a hollow watermark halfway inside, printed at different speeds (50mm/s and 10mm/s, top and bottom) and different layer heights (0.40; 0.30; 0.20; 0.10 and 0.06mm left to right). This material is waterclear PET (brand: ICE, from Trideus in Belgium), but yellowed due to printing too slow at the bottom, thus subjected to heat for too long.
In the second pic, one of the blocks is polished, to remove the outer defects.
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Here comes Cura 5.9 and in this stable release we have lots of material and printer profiles for UltiMaker printers, including the newly released Sketch Sprint. Additionally, scarf seams have been introduced alongside even more print settings and improvements. Check out the rest of this article to find out the details on all of that and more
We are happy to announce the next evolution in the UltiMaker 3D printer lineup: the UltiMaker Factor 4 industrial-grade 3D printer, designed to take manufacturing to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Factor 4 is an end-to-end 3D printing solution for light industrial applications
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geert_2 558
I think you would best contact the manufacturers directly, such as for T-glase (is that Eastman Kodak?).
Most of us have tried printing transparent parts, but with very limited success. Due to the inevitable entrapped air, both in-between the extruded sausages as in the center of the sausages, it is very difficult to get a better clarity than "frosted glass" or shattered glass. This is good enough to show a watermark, and let some light shine through. Suitable for model trains, and lenses for rear lights of bikes. But far from usefull for long real light guides and optical datacables. Another problem are surface defects due to layer lines, which act like lenses and which deform the light path. All these defects combined will probably play a much greater role in the disturbance of the ligth than the pure material characteristics. For good transparency, you will have to mould and cast, I think.
See these blocks (20mm x 10mm x 10mm), with a hollow watermark halfway inside, printed at different speeds (50mm/s and 10mm/s, top and bottom) and different layer heights (0.40; 0.30; 0.20; 0.10 and 0.06mm left to right). This material is waterclear PET (brand: ICE, from Trideus in Belgium), but yellowed due to printing too slow at the bottom, thus subjected to heat for too long.
In the second pic, one of the blocks is polished, to remove the outer defects.
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