Interesting idea. I'm not sure if it would work well though.
The problem I had with a large print was that the part was significantly thick that it could not flex. Normally with a part that has a large surface area but relatively thin, a small a mount of flex lets you "peel" the part of the bed from a corner or side.
I think your idea would work for prints with small surface area and/or thin profile but then again you would have to make sure to print on top of the set screws.
Plus, it would require that you reapply the tape after every print. My tape can survive quite a large number of prints as I use a spudger instead of blades/scrappers to pry the print off the bed. For those who don't know, a spudger is a nylon tool useful for prying open gadgets and whatnot. Yes, the spudger needs to be replace periodically but at least I don't damage the part or the tape/bed as much.
You have given me idea though. If the part can't flex, why not make the print surface flex? Maybe secure a transparency sheet or a mylar sheet on top of the acrylic, apply tape on it, and print. When done printing, the transparency/mylar sheet with the blue tape can be peeled off from the part. The only question is how to secure the transparency/mylar sheet on the acrylic bed so that it is flat and stationary. Right now the only thing that comes to mind is vacuum but it's too complex and expensive.
I am thinking of adding some jack screws to the acrylic. By this I mean tapping an array of holes across the bed and installing a plastic set screw in each one. I am thinking maybe 9 holes spaced appropriately. The screws would be mounted from the back side and adjusted to be flush with the build surface. When the tape is applied, the flatness would not be affected.
The idea is that when a print is done, just pop off the plate, turn in a set screw or two to release your part. Replace the damaged tape and print on.
This would require that the holes are tapped perpendicular to the plate to a high degree of accuracy - best to be done in a milling machine and minimal if any chamfer on the top side. The set screws would also need a suitably qualified surface. A good way to do this might be tap all the holes, install the set screws sightly above the surface, jam nut them, and machine a new finish to the whole thing.
Also thinking of drilling and chamfering a small hole right at the 0,0 so a plastic blob can't accumulate there. Maybe changing my start code would also fix this.
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