But the stress seems to be on the white wire
It's the red/yellow/black twisted wire that's the problem. That is your temperature sensor. It's not going through the "F" shaped black strain relief. By now it is too late and there is an open (likely) in one of those 3 wires near the connector (or inside the connector). The simplest thing you can do is swap it with the other unused cable hanging there and this time put it through the F connector. Of course you need to find the other end of these 2 wires underneath your UM and swap them there also.
Also I have no clue about adjusting the gcode.
Cura generates a file with the extension ".gcode". Find the file. Open it and look at it. Go here and read about the 5 or so codes found in that file. Read the comments (e.g. layer 1, skirt, etc). Pay particular attention (or search for) the letter Z meaning height. E is extruder. Here are explanations for all the gcodes although only 5 or 10 are actually used to make a print:
gcodes for Marlin (and a few other firmwares)
great reference:
scroll way down to the gcodes on this page:
https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/
I plan to one day write up a detailed explanation for how to continue a print. Unfortunately my instructions above are all I can offer now. I need to spend a few hours making screen shots and explaining every little detail even though most of it is very simple to do. The instructions need to work for UM1 and UM2 and for people with or without an ulticontroller and so on. They need to work even if the part is in the way of being able to home (there are more tricks if you don't have room to home without hitting the part). But not today. Sorry.
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gr5 2,170
MAXTEMP almost always means a loose or intermittent wire. It's almost always at the top of the print head. It usually happens on a movement far away from the center such as on larger parts or towards one of the 4 corners which puts minor stress on the cables. When I had this problem I was able to get it to happen either of 2 ways:
1) Turn on the heater (no need to wait for it to warm up) and push the head around to the 4 corners of the bed. Occasionally it would trigger MAXTEMP, cut power and ignore me until I power cycled.
2) Push and pull on the wiring at the top of the print head.
My fix was to switch to the backup cable (meant for a second extruder). Switch on both ends. Also make sure you use that black E shaped strain relief or this will happen to cable #2 as well.
Also I'm very good at continuing a 4 hour print when it fails. The basic solution is to:
1) Figure out exactly what height it failed - typically I rehome, then command the head to different Z heights (usually using prontrface G1 Z10.0 commands)
2) Edit the gcode file and remove everything up to the part where I start the new layer. Leave in the home command at the start, add a command to move to the right Z height so it doesn't hit the part e.g. G1 Z10.0, set the extruder to where it left off (otherwise it emits 2 meters of filament).
Let me know if you want more details like the reset extruder to position A command, guide to gcodes, and where to get prontrface.
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rayray 0
Ah, thanks for the possible explanations! Indeed, if I move the head towards the corners, at some points the MAXTEMP error is shown. But the stress seems to be on the white wire (left on picture). How do I use that stress relief for the thermocouple?
Also I have no clue about adjusting the gcode. Do I have to put it in the start- or end gcode? And please tell me about the positioning command. And how do you find out at what height it failed? The slicer I use is Cura, if that changes anything.
I'm sorry for taking so much of your time and effort by knowing so little about it yet.
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