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· Tempeture Tower - Unexpected Result
When there is a lot of flow through the hot end then the stream of plastic is quickly removing heat and in that case most people find that higher print temperatures are necessary. If you are printing fairly slow (which I find necessary with PETG) then a higher print temperature may not be required.
Each printer is going to be at least slightly different. The accuracy of the thermocouple comes into play as well. At room temperature my build plate and hot end are always 2 to 3 degrees different. It's quite likely that they are both wrong.
I see a lot of project files and gcode files and people are printing PLA from 190 to 220. That's a pretty fair spread but on an individual basis it must be working for them or they would change it.
At higher temperatures PETG can be gooey and stringy but at lower temperatures the layer adhesion can suffer.
I print white PLA at 200 and almost all others at 205, but I print silkies at 215 because they have really poor layer adhesion and I try to make up for it by putting them down hotter. They require more benchwork to clean up because at the higher temp I get more stringing.
If you are happy with the print quality you are getting from the temperatures you decide on then those are the temperature you want to print at regardless of what it says on the side of the spool.
Edited by GregValiant
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GregValiant 1,342
When there is a lot of flow through the hot end then the stream of plastic is quickly removing heat and in that case most people find that higher print temperatures are necessary. If you are printing fairly slow (which I find necessary with PETG) then a higher print temperature may not be required.
Each printer is going to be at least slightly different. The accuracy of the thermocouple comes into play as well. At room temperature my build plate and hot end are always 2 to 3 degrees different. It's quite likely that they are both wrong.
I see a lot of project files and gcode files and people are printing PLA from 190 to 220. That's a pretty fair spread but on an individual basis it must be working for them or they would change it.
At higher temperatures PETG can be gooey and stringy but at lower temperatures the layer adhesion can suffer.
I print white PLA at 200 and almost all others at 205, but I print silkies at 215 because they have really poor layer adhesion and I try to make up for it by putting them down hotter. They require more benchwork to clean up because at the higher temp I get more stringing.
If you are happy with the print quality you are getting from the temperatures you decide on then those are the temperature you want to print at regardless of what it says on the side of the spool.
Edited by GregValiantLink to post
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