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Qualità stampa poggiata sul supporto


VieriSaba

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Posted · Qualità stampa poggiata sul supporto

Buongiorno a tutti ! 
Avrei bisogno di un vostro aiuto con i supporti in Cura . 

La parte che poggia sul supporto viene stampata come vedete in foto . 
quali sono le funzioni e paramenti  da settare affinché venga una superficie il più liscia possibile? 
ho una umilissima ender 3d pro . 

8ACF9C15-B3DD-4CCA-9F4E-85D9A1C743FA.jpeg

IMG_2237.png

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    Posted · Qualità stampa poggiata sul supporto

    When you print with a single extruder printer then there must be an airgap between the top of the support interface and the bottom layer of the part.  If there is not then the first part layer will bond to the support.  Because of the airgap you don't get any squish on that first layer.

    I like a grid interface at 60% and no matter what material, lots of fan for all the interface layers.  The cooler you can get the interface, the better the chance of breaking it free from the model without leaving scars.  I usually run my support interface at 90% flow as I have found that weaker is better for removal.

     

    With the part loaded in Cura and when you are ready to slice, use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here.  My printer is also an Ender 3 Pro.

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    Posted · Qualità stampa poggiata sul supporto
    On 7/30/2023 at 8:47 PM, GregValiant said:

    When you print with a single extruder printer then there must be an airgap between the top of the support interface and the bottom layer of the part.  If there is not then the first part layer will bond to the support.  Because of the airgap you don't get any squish on that first layer.

    I like a grid interface at 60% and no matter what material, lots of fan for all the interface layers.  The cooler you can get the interface, the better the chance of breaking it free from the model without leaving scars.  I usually run my support interface at 90% flow as I have found that weaker is better for removal.

     

    With the part loaded in Cura and when you are ready to slice, use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here.  My printer is also an Ender 3 Pro.

    Hi Greg, thank you for you answer .
    For the model I posted previously , I'm printing with Support density 60 % . 


    i have NOT enable " support interface " because that setting  gave me problems in others printing  while removing the entire support ( was really hard to remove and I broke my model ) . When I tried support interface, his density was 90% ( maybe too much?)  . 

     

    It's a lot of time that I have quality problems with that kind of topic.. I 've tried to find solutions but every time I fail . 
    Hope to Find good parameters to improve my prints .


    You can find the file attached. 

    thank you again 

     

     

    PrintTest.3mf

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    Posted · Qualità stampa poggiata sul supporto

    The best way to print this is to cheat.  Multiply the model and then flip the copy over so the other side prints.  Arrange the models on the build plate and set the Z = 1/2 the height of the model.  In this case it is -18.89.

    Super Glue (cyano acrylic glue) works really well on PLA and PETG.  There is very little support required here.

    image.thumb.png.c7e66c4460f1ead560a0cbee77a205fa.png

     

    If you want to get fancy, you can subtract two 2.1mm diameter cylinders from the midpoint of the model.  When you go to assemble the halves drop pieces of filament into the holes as locating pins.

     

    I like to use MS 3D Builder to alter STL and 3mf files.  Here are the two cylinders I would subtract.  I cut the model in half to make this easier to see.

     

    image.thumb.png.c3f6f46210d34b3a6ef1a5714900dd8c.png

     

    Here is how I would do it.

     

    GV_PrintTest.3mf

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    Posted (edited) · Qualità stampa poggiata sul supporto
    16 hours ago, GregValiant said:

    The best way to print this is to cheat.  Multiply the model and then flip the copy over so the other side prints.  Arrange the models on the build plate and set the Z = 1/2 the height of the model.  In this case it is -18.89.

    Super Glue (cyano acrylic glue) works really well on PLA and PETG.  There is very little support required here.

    image.thumb.png.c7e66c4460f1ead560a0cbee77a205fa.png

     

    If you want to get fancy, you can subtract two 2.1mm diameter cylinders from the midpoint of the model.  When you go to assemble the halves drop pieces of filament into the holes as locating pins.

     

    I like to use MS 3D Builder to alter STL and 3mf files.  Here are the two cylinders I would subtract.  I cut the model in half to make this easier to see.

     

    image.thumb.png.c3f6f46210d34b3a6ef1a5714900dd8c.png

     

    Here is how I would do it.

     

    GV_PrintTest.3mf 2.2 MB · 0 downloads

    I agree with you to print 2 separate models at that point. 

    I have already printed the model as you show me and the problem was that the two pieces didn't fit perfectly . One of them was little bit longer that the other for some millimeters... that's why I thought to print in one big piece. 

    do you have any suggestions  so that 2 pieces will be printed with the same exactly dimensions?

    Thank's for your time 

     

    Edited by vieriyellow46
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    Posted (edited) · Qualità stampa poggiata sul supporto

    It's the same model (just duplicated and rotated) so both halves should print exactly.  I don't know how one could have turned out larger than the other.  I suppose one could be scaled differently but that would need to be done intentionally.  The problem us usually precise location for assembly.

     

    The trick is to put the 2.1mm holes into the part before slicing (or before splitting a model).  I usually use MS 3D Builder to alter STL's but it can be done in Cura with Cylindrical Support pieces configured as Cutting Meshes.

     

    In this case I used two cylinders 2.1mm diameter and 12mm long.  I moved them to well spaced locations within the model and at the 1/2 way point in the Z thickness of the model then subtracted them from the model.  That makes 2 perfectly located pockets that will be 6mm deep into piece A and piece B.  After printing you put a 10mm piece of filament in each hole in piece A, and you have pins to precisely locate piece B for the gluing operation.  A couple of clamps and it's good to go.

    That model is 37.78mm thick.  1/2 of that is 18.89mm and that is the other part of the process.  Duplicate the part and print each side at a Z of -18.89 and you have your A and B pieces.

    Edited by GregValiant
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