Retraction settings

[Ranshii 2]

Hello, it's is I, again, with more newbie questions.

 

Where can I find the retraction settings for my Ender 3 on Cura 6.0?

 

I'm a bit tired of the constant strings forming and I heard I have to fiddle with the retraction but I can't even find the setting and I'm lost on what to do with it anyways.

 

I print using 1,75mm PLA, unfortunately I don't know what nozzle I have, this printer was given to me and it has been upgraded by the previous owner, if there's a way to know what nozzle I'm using I'll be glad to get educated.

 

Please tell me how to configure the retraction settings, speed and temperature wise, in a "for dummies" way, thank you!

[Slashee_the_Cow 437]

Cura 6.0? The latest version is 5.7 beta 1.

 

Anyway, to find any setting, you can always search for it. Retraction settings are in the Travel section. The main settings you need to worry about are Retraction Distance and Retraction Speed. Unfortunately without knowing exactly what printer you have (there's about half a million various Ender-3 models) or what modifications have been done to it.

 

The main thing that makes a difference is whether you have a Bowden or direct drive extruder. A Bowden extruder loads the filament into a bit off one to one side and runs a tube through to the print head. A direct drive extruder will usually sit directly on top of print head and the filament goes straight into that, no tube involved.

 

For a Bowden extruder with PLA I used a distance of 2mm at a speed of 40mm/s. With my direct drive extruder I use 0.8mm at 45mm/s.

 

There's an awesome plugin (click Marketplace at the top right, pretty bad name because nothing in there costs anything) called AutoTowers Generator:

That will allow you to print premade calibration towers for retraction distance, retraction speed, and almost any other setting that directly controls the printer, to see which gives you the best results for each setting.

[Ranshii 2]

Awesome, I'm doing a rather long print at the moment so the printer will be "busy" until tomorrow.

 

I think the model I have is the Ender 3 "pro" that's what it says on the display screen.

 

I will share pics of the extruder and all parts tomorrow if that helps, I will also try to reach out to this guy and see if he gets back at me about what parts he used to upgrade it.

 

How do I update cura? Do I need to uninstall and do a clean install? I thought it would auto update, the beta version is stable or should I wait for a "stable" build before I update?

[Slashee_the_Cow 437]

Don't need to uninstall if you don't want to (but if you don't, you'll have both versions installed) and especially don't want to do a clean install. You can have as many versions as you want installed side by side (for testing things different people on the forums are doing in different versions, I have five installed). When you first launch a version of Cura it will check to see if there's configuration folder from an older version and if so, migrate it to the current version (which usually just means copying it) so all versions will continue to work.

 

Cura doesn't auto update but by default it does check for new versions at start (I haven't found it to always be reliable at doing that) and even then it only pops up one of the little message boxes at the bottom middle of the screen which it's easy to ignore.

 

The beta version is supposed to be fairly stable, just bear in mind that it may still have some bugs in it (which is why it's a beta) so if in doubt (or you do experience bugs) use the stable version.

[Ranshii 2]

23 hours ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:

Don't need to uninstall if you don't want to (but if you don't, you'll have both versions installed) and especially don't want to do a clean install. You can have as many versions as you want installed side by side (for testing things different people on the forums are doing in different versions, I have five installed). When you first launch a version of Cura it will check to see if there's configuration folder from an older version and if so, migrate it to the current version (which usually just means copying it) so all versions will continue to work.

 

Cura doesn't auto update but by default it does check for new versions at start (I haven't found it to always be reliable at doing that) and even then it only pops up one of the little message boxes at the bottom middle of the screen which it's easy to ignore.

The beta version is supposed to be fairly stable, just bear in mind that it may still have some bugs in it (which is why it's a beta) so if in doubt (or you do experience bugs) use the stable version.

Thanks, I'll bear that in mind, right now I have a little issue with the printer not printing the whole model, and I think it's because of the supports.

 

If you look at the sc, the bottom of the bust isn't flat, however, I did a test print yesterday and it came out flat.

(Yes I used crap supports that's why I'm changing that now) but it still will print out flat.

 

I can switch the position but the reason I shose this one is so I won't have too many support leftovers attached to the face/body, I barely have some sandpaper and a nail file for post production so I'm still barebones on how much detailing I can do.

 

Anything you would recommend for this to not to come out flat? If there's no other option but to switch the position I will accept tips too.

 

Another issue I have is that my printer refuses to print this hollow (and it IS hollow) but it fills it up for some reason, any idea what's going on?

 

I'll also look at the configurations you told me later.

 

I'll attach the original STL, all I did was scale it down.

 

 

Horse_Head.obj

Edited March 27 by Slashee_the_Cow
moved reply out of quote box

[Slashee_the_Cow 437]

It would really help if if you could post the Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project) that would help a lot more than just having the model, because it also has your printer and print settings in it, as well as where you positioned the model (which is important in this case).

 

What it's printing inside is more than likely Infill (has its own section in the print settings), having a completely hollow enclosed model is pretty much impossible to print (unless your model only has a very shallow angled top) because there's nothing to hold the top layers up. Not only that, but it would be incredibly weak since there's nothing bracing the walls.

[Ranshii 2]

18 minutes ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:

It would really help if if you could post the Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project) that would help a lot more than just having the model, because it also has your printer and print settings in it, as well as where you positioned the model (which is important in this case).

 

What it's printing inside is more than likely Infill (has its own section in the print settings), having a completely hollow enclosed model is pretty much impossible to print (unless your model only has a very shallow angled top) because there's nothing to hold the top layers up. Not only that, but it would be incredibly weak since there's nothing bracing the walls.

 

 

Here you go, unfortunately I had apower outage today so this is not exactly the same file I screenshotted but I didn't really change a lot, I was about to save it when my power went out, I just adjusted it like it was, I don't mess around with the settings except for the support density which I always set at 5% so I'm sure it's about the same thing.

I hope the project is saed correctly, because when I open them (the projects I save) I always have to slice them again, idk if that's normal.

 

Sorry about the messed up replies I'm still learning to use the forum, it's been a LONG time since I used one... hahaha

 

I think it's the infill yes, I was trying to print it hollow because I barely have any PLA left, and I'm unable to buy more at the moment, also to try and save up some time because that small head took almost 7hs to print. Feel free to recommend me any settings you find might help me. Here's another picture of the finished model, it has many flaws, I want to reprint it and see if it can be improved. I can post process this one but I want better prints right off the bat so I don't have to add other materials (such as epoxy) to fill in the gaps (it feels like I'm doing something wrong, "fixing" a low quality piece, but that might me just my perfectionism speaking)

 

The inside of the mouth is particularly gnarly. I wanna make all those retraction fixes before I try this again so I'll wait for your input.

 

CE3E3V2_Horse_Head.3mf

[Slashee_the_Cow 437]

Okay, so it's time for another Slashee Deep Dive™:

BTW, I'm probably going to refer to some more obscure settings here, so if you don't see them, just search for them.

• Your model has too many polygons: (STL models are made up of bunches of triangles). Detail is great, if you're displaying things on screen, or have a really high end professional printer (or a movie modelmaking department). But your average printer can't print with anywhere near that much detail. Here's the model you're using (2,499,712 polys):
  
  And here it is with a lot of those faces removed (down to 120,124):
  
  Can you spot the difference? Because your printer definitely won't be able to.
• Your model is paper thin: Like, literally. Here's a curved section looking from almost straight underneath:
  
  After replacing your model with the simplified version, I noticed there were these random bits:
  
  They're from around this area:
  
  When it's being sliced, Cura just figures a lot of that bottom bit isn't actually big enough 
  In Cura's preview, the volume of the actual model is shown in grey; here's how much it's missing:
  
  This one should have an easy fix: Go to Experimental > Slicing Tolerance and set it to Inclusive. That tells it to make sure the slice contains at least the volume of the original object, but this is such a severe case that not even that works:
  
  
  I mean, it added a teensy little bit more. I'll drop the minimum line width to 0.24mm (about the narrowest you can pull off on a 0.4mm nozzle following the 60-150% guideline):
  
  Well... that added another teensy bit more. Normally this is where I'd turn on Walls > Print Thin Walls (which makes Cura try to print walls that are below the minimum line width at the width specified in Walls > Minimum Thin Wall Line Width) but that didn't actually make a difference.
  So the next setting to attack: Walls > Minimum Feature Size (only appears if you have Print Thin Walls turned on). Anything thinner than that setting will just be ignored. The default is 0.1mm. Let's halve that and see what happens:
  
  That's progress, right? What happens if I try setting it to 0.02mm?
  
  More progress! Let's try 0.01mm:
  
  Oh dear. Let's start mooing up a different tree instead. I turned off Print Thin Walls. We'll move to a setting I use when I'm running out of ideas, Walls > Horizontal Expansion. Technically this makes the whole print a bit thicker or thinner which is why I don't like to use it, but sometimes you gotta brute force things. I'll start at 0.1mm:
  
  It's a start. I'll skip the increments I tried and go to 5mm:
  
  Nope. As you can see, it's going way outside the model and still not generating walls down below.
  
  *Sits for a few minutes, thinking and changing various settings to try and find one that works*
  
  
  AHA! What's this magical setting? Mesh Fixes > Keep Disconnected Faces. This is totally not what that setting was really designed for, which tells you how much this model was not made with 3D printing in mind. Still missing that little bit at the front there. Let's turn Walls > Print Thin Walls back on:
  
  Eh, close enough. I still have Experimental > Slicing Tolerance set to Inclusive, for what it's worth.
• Now let's look at with support and travels on:
  
  Almost all of those retraction moves are going from support to support, so it shouldn't really cause a problem for the model, just maybe a few strings. But you need to find out if you have a Bowden or direct drive extruder, because if you have a direct drive extruder you want the retraction distance to be around 0.8mm. Just take a photo of your printer (with some filament loaded) and post it and we should be able to figure it out.
  • First up: Support > Support Placement: Much as I hate to add more support to things, there's a few areas which are unsupported, like the inside of the mouth:
    
    So we need to change the support placement to Everywhere.
    
    Now that's a mouthful. Setting the placement to everywhere does enable an option we definitely want to change though, Support > Rest Preference. This sets whether the branches can touch the model if it'll make their path easier or whether to avoid it. If they're touching it, then that's another place it's touching the model and another place you can potentially get a scar. I'm not sure if there's much support resting on the model, but it doesn't hurt to make sure it tries to avoid it by setting the rest preference to On buildplate when possible.
  • Next: support interface. Your model has one big flat surface (the bottom) but it does have a few diagonals
    
    I've never liked diagonal support interface or little bits here and there, just big flat bits. I usually find it easier to remove tree branches from the more fiddly areas. Which is most of your model. But you've got a very big bottom that would be hard to remove without interface. You can try disabling Support > Enable Support Interface and see what happens, with the right model it works great, with the wrong one, it makes your life very hard.
    You definitely don't need an interface thickness of 0.96mm - usually I want only 3 or 4 layers, so let's halve that to 0.48mm (four layers at 0.12mm). We're even saving a little bit of filament!
  • The tips in some places are quite small but they're juuuust small enough to go up a hole, like into this nostril:
    
    Unfortunately there's not much we can do about that. I mean, we could play with the settings to make them stay out of places like that, but they need to be in there to support what's above.
  • Flow: If we reduce Material > Support Flow and Support Interface Flow just a little bit (say 95%) it'll come off a bit easier because it's not quite as dense. But it also makes it less stable, which is why we're only turning it down a little bit.
  • Unfortunately, the rest is just "cleaning up", and that's a skill you're going to pick up, although it helps to have the right tools. I would say, if nothing else, you want some small pliers (I have some that are a little bit bigger than your average wire snippers), some tweezers and some wire snips (which I hope you're using to nip the end off of filament whenever you change it).
    • The pliers are great for bits like that nostril or the eyes, just grab as much as you can as close as you can get to it and yank it straight it out.
    • For support interface, try and get a tool in between the model and the interface and use that as a lever to break off the support. If you have a thin flathead screwdriver, that works great.
    • With trees, the rest is basically just "pull it off" and use the wire snips or tweezers to get any small bits that don't come off.
• Time to save some filament!
  • First, a warning: doing these will make the whole print pretty weak. Fine if you just want to look at it, not fine if you want do something practical with it.
  • Walls? We don't need three of them, especially at a 0.4mm line width. Set Walls > Wall Line Count to 2.
  • Infill: I get the idea that you don't like it. But there's a setting designed just for people in your situation: set Infill > Infill Pattern to Lightning. That will only generate infill where it's required to hold something up above it, the rest is hollow!
    
    Just change Infill > Infill Density back to 20%. With lightning infill, it just sets the equivalent to what any other pattern would be at the top, and if it's too low there are big gaps between lines that things will have to bridge.
  • This won't reduce it quite as much as the last two (although it will save you a fair chunk of time), but we can probably get away with a little less than eight skin layers, although you do need more layers than if you're printing taller layers (for a 0.2mm layer height I use 3 skin layers, for example). Set Top/Bottom > Top/Bottom Thickness to 0.6mm and we'll only get five skin layers.
  • This one might not save you anything, or it might save you a tiny bit: Experimental > Infill Travel Optimization. Spends extra time slicing to figure out the best place to go start infill instead of just doing whatever's closest.

That's about it. But I've reduced your filament usage by over 33%, your slicing time by simplifying the model, and made all of it actually show up.

(Okay, so preview mode isn't great at making things look pretty).

I'm including the project file with all the changes I've made but you'll learn more about what each thing does if you have two Cura windows open, one with my project file, one with your own, and then find the things I've changed (there'll be a reset icon - circular arrow pointing left - next to what I've changed) and change them one by one and slice to see what difference it's made. Of course if you just want to be lazy and and use mine, I can't stop you 😉

I'm also including the simplified model because it should just make Cura more responsive when you're working with it, especially when you slice.

 

 

slashee horse head.3mf horse head simplified fixed.stl

[Ranshii 2]

12 hours ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:

Okay, so it's time for another Slashee Deep Dive™:

BTW, I'm probably going to refer to some more obscure settings here, so if you don't see them, just search for them.

• Your model has too many polygons: (STL models are made up of bunches of triangles). Detail is great, if you're displaying things on screen, or have a really high end professional printer (or a movie modelmaking department). But your average printer can't print with anywhere near that much detail. Here's the model you're using (2,499,712 polys):
  
  And here it is with a lot of those faces removed (down to 120,124):
  
  Can you spot the difference? Because your printer definitely won't be able to.
• Your model is paper thin: Like, literally. Here's a curved section looking from almost straight underneath:
  
  After replacing your model with the simplified version, I noticed there were these random bits:
  
  They're from around this area:
  
  When it's being sliced, Cura just figures a lot of that bottom bit isn't actually big enough 
  In Cura's preview, the volume of the actual model is shown in grey; here's how much it's missing:
  
  This one should have an easy fix: Go to Experimental > Slicing Tolerance and set it to Inclusive. That tells it to make sure the slice contains at least the volume of the original object, but this is such a severe case that not even that works:
  
  
  I mean, it added a teensy little bit more. I'll drop the minimum line width to 0.24mm (about the narrowest you can pull off on a 0.4mm nozzle following the 60-150% guideline):
  
  Well... that added another teensy bit more. Normally this is where I'd turn on Walls > Print Thin Walls (which makes Cura try to print walls that are below the minimum line width at the width specified in Walls > Minimum Thin Wall Line Width) but that didn't actually make a difference.
  So the next setting to attack: Walls > Minimum Feature Size (only appears if you have Print Thin Walls turned on). Anything thinner than that setting will just be ignored. The default is 0.1mm. Let's halve that and see what happens:
  
  That's progress, right? What happens if I try setting it to 0.02mm?
  
  More progress! Let's try 0.01mm:
  
  Oh dear. Let's start mooing up a different tree instead. I turned off Print Thin Walls. We'll move to a setting I use when I'm running out of ideas, Walls > Horizontal Expansion. Technically this makes the whole print a bit thicker or thinner which is why I don't like to use it, but sometimes you gotta brute force things. I'll start at 0.1mm:
  
  It's a start. I'll skip the increments I tried and go to 5mm:
  
  Nope. As you can see, it's going way outside the model and still not generating walls down below.
  
  *Sits for a few minutes, thinking and changing various settings to try and find one that works*
  
  
  AHA! What's this magical setting? Mesh Fixes > Keep Disconnected Faces. This is totally not what that setting was really designed for, which tells you how much this model was not made with 3D printing in mind. Still missing that little bit at the front there. Let's turn Walls > Print Thin Walls back on:
  
  Eh, close enough. I still have Experimental > Slicing Tolerance set to Inclusive, for what it's worth.
• Now let's look at with support and travels on:
  
  Almost all of those retraction moves are going from support to support, so it shouldn't really cause a problem for the model, just maybe a few strings. But you need to find out if you have a Bowden or direct drive extruder, because if you have a direct drive extruder you want the retraction distance to be around 0.8mm. Just take a photo of your printer (with some filament loaded) and post it and we should be able to figure it out.
  • First up: Support > Support Placement: Much as I hate to add more support to things, there's a few areas which are unsupported, like the inside of the mouth:
    
    So we need to change the support placement to Everywhere.
    
    Now that's a mouthful. Setting the placement to everywhere does enable an option we definitely want to change though, Support > Rest Preference. This sets whether the branches can touch the model if it'll make their path easier or whether to avoid it. If they're touching it, then that's another place it's touching the model and another place you can potentially get a scar. I'm not sure if there's much support resting on the model, but it doesn't hurt to make sure it tries to avoid it by setting the rest preference to On buildplate when possible.
  • Next: support interface. Your model has one big flat surface (the bottom) but it does have a few diagonals
    
    I've never liked diagonal support interface or little bits here and there, just big flat bits. I usually find it easier to remove tree branches from the more fiddly areas. Which is most of your model. But you've got a very big bottom that would be hard to remove without interface. You can try disabling Support > Enable Support Interface and see what happens, with the right model it works great, with the wrong one, it makes your life very hard.
    You definitely don't need an interface thickness of 0.96mm - usually I want only 3 or 4 layers, so let's halve that to 0.48mm (four layers at 0.12mm). We're even saving a little bit of filament!
  • The tips in some places are quite small but they're juuuust small enough to go up a hole, like into this nostril:
    
    Unfortunately there's not much we can do about that. I mean, we could play with the settings to make them stay out of places like that, but they need to be in there to support what's above.
  • Flow: If we reduce Material > Support Flow and Support Interface Flow just a little bit (say 95%) it'll come off a bit easier because it's not quite as dense. But it also makes it less stable, which is why we're only turning it down a little bit.
  • Unfortunately, the rest is just "cleaning up", and that's a skill you're going to pick up, although it helps to have the right tools. I would say, if nothing else, you want some small pliers (I have some that are a little bit bigger than your average wire snippers), some tweezers and some wire snips (which I hope you're using to nip the end off of filament whenever you change it).
    • The pliers are great for bits like that nostril or the eyes, just grab as much as you can as close as you can get to it and yank it straight it out.
    • For support interface, try and get a tool in between the model and the interface and use that as a lever to break off the support. If you have a thin flathead screwdriver, that works great.
    • With trees, the rest is basically just "pull it off" and use the wire snips or tweezers to get any small bits that don't come off.
• Time to save some filament!
  • First, a warning: doing these will make the whole print pretty weak. Fine if you just want to look at it, not fine if you want do something practical with it.
  • Walls? We don't need three of them, especially at a 0.4mm line width. Set Walls > Wall Line Count to 2.
  • Infill: I get the idea that you don't like it. But there's a setting designed just for people in your situation: set Infill > Infill Pattern to Lightning. That will only generate infill where it's required to hold something up above it, the rest is hollow!
    
    Just change Infill > Infill Density back to 20%. With lightning infill, it just sets the equivalent to what any other pattern would be at the top, and if it's too low there are big gaps between lines that things will have to bridge.
  • This won't reduce it quite as much as the last two (although it will save you a fair chunk of time), but we can probably get away with a little less than eight skin layers, although you do need more layers than if you're printing taller layers (for a 0.2mm layer height I use 3 skin layers, for example). Set Top/Bottom > Top/Bottom Thickness to 0.6mm and we'll only get five skin layers.
  • This one might not save you anything, or it might save you a tiny bit: Experimental > Infill Travel Optimization. Spends extra time slicing to figure out the best place to go start infill instead of just doing whatever's closest.

That's about it. But I've reduced your filament usage by over 33%, your slicing time by simplifying the model, and made all of it actually show up.

(Okay, so preview mode isn't great at making things look pretty).

I'm including the project file with all the changes I've made but you'll learn more about what each thing does if you have two Cura windows open, one with my project file, one with your own, and then find the things I've changed (there'll be a reset icon - circular arrow pointing left - next to what I've changed) and change them one by one and slice to see what difference it's made. Of course if you just want to be lazy and and use mine, I can't stop you 😉

I'm also including the simplified model because it should just make Cura more responsive when you're working with it, especially when you slice.

 

slashee horse head.3mf 7.39 MB · 0 downloads horse head simplified.stl 5.73 MB · 0 downloads

 

 

Woah, holy cow, first of all, thank you for taking so much time with this, I was not expecting it to be such a skull breaker, I thought it was just me being a complete n00b that doesn't know how to use this thing (which I am), but I'm starting to believe that the model itself is one of those scans made out of the real thing irl, when I opened the original one it was literally massive, I think almost a meter in diameter or something (it almost blew my computer up, I'm working without a GPU at the moment due to electrical issues with my motherboard), so I knew right off the bat that this was not gonna be as easy as I thought, but I don't tend to give up easily on things like these.

 

A lot of what you said is simplified Chinese (for now) so I will have to open a window and work along what you say and compare it to the project and model you left for me, I have very little filament left to test, so I will have to save up, the print is merely a personal project for me to learn to print complex things (I aim to print anime figures, I know I don't have the ideal printer for it but I shot myself in the foot and bought a resin printer I was never able to use due to toxic fumes and I had to trade it for this one just to do something, I looked for supplies everywhere in my country, masks etc, to no avail so, yes, no resin for me at least for now), so it's not functional in any way, just a project to learn, which I'm already doing, even if I feel like I don't understand right now hahaha I will in due time.

 

Here's the pictures you requested (I think) I haen't even loaded up that filament myself, the guy that brought the printer did it for me to teach me how to do it, once it runs out I'll have to do it myself, I already see myself messing up, what's that about snipping the filament? Please before I fuck up the only extruder I have, it's too early for me to pull this thing apart yet, I don't even know if other Ender 3 PRO tutorials would work for this one due to the upgrades LOL what did I get myself into please spare me.

 

 

If these pictures don't work please tell me how to take better ones and I'll get them for you, I'll do the tests once we figure out what extruder I got hahaha

 

Thank you so much again, I can't wait to be this knowledgable myself!!!

[Slashee_the_Cow 437]

That's a Bowden extruder, this bit specifically:

Those wheels control how fast the filament goes through, then the filament goes through that blue tube and into the hot end. Nice to see whoever you got it from seems to have gotten the upgraded dual wheel metal one rather than the stock one it comes with, which is plastic 🙂 

[Ranshii 2]

On 3/27/2024 at 10:21 PM, Slashee_the_Cow said:

That's a Bowden extruder, this bit specifically:

Those wheels control how fast the filament goes through, then the filament goes through that blue tube and into the hot end. Nice to see whoever you got it from seems to have gotten the upgraded dual wheel metal one rather than the stock one it comes with, which is plastic 🙂 

 

Awesome, thank you a lot!

 

Do you know which nozzle I got per chance?

 

Sorry about the delay, some really heavy stuff is happening in real life and I haven't had the chance to go over this.

 

I want to try and print the model you left for me up there to have a reference before I fiddle with it on my own, in order to do that I open the project and select "open as project" instead of "extract model" and just hit slice again and that should leave it ready to print, right?

 

Sorry again, it's gonna be a little bit until I have the mental energy to go over all this and try to get it in my head, I've been using the printer to print splints and other emergency items due to what has occured and I'm mentally drained, but I didn't want you do think I just dropped this and your time and effort went to waste, I'll be back to it as soon as I can.

[Slashee_the_Cow 437]

2 hours ago, Ranshii said:

Do you know which nozzle I got per chance?

Almost every printer comes with a 0.4mm nozzle. It's possible your friend may have been playing with other sizes but if you've had 0.4mm (or there isn't an option in Cura) and it's been printing stuff fine then you probably have a 0.4mm.

 

2 hours ago, Ranshii said:

Sorry about the delay, some really heavy stuff is happening in real life and I haven't had the chance to go over this.

Don't worry, I've got my own stuff right now, and sometimes my brain just drops things and says "nope, not today". So do things as you're ready.

 

2 hours ago, Ranshii said:

I want to try and print the model you left for me up there to have a reference before I fiddle with it on my own, in order to do that I open the project and select "open as project" instead of "extract model" and just hit slice again and that should leave it ready to print, right?

Yep! Just double check it by looking at the preview after you slice.

 

2 hours ago, Ranshii said:

I didn't want you do think I just dropped this and your time and effort went to waste, I'll be back to it as soon as I can.

It's cool. Even if you did suddenly disappear I know you've learned stuff, so tine and effort not wasted.

Edited March 31 by Slashee_the_Cow

[Ranshii 2]

56 minutes ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:

Almost every printer comes with a 0.4mm nozzle. It's possible your friend may have been playing with other sizes but if you've had 0.4mm (or there isn't an option in Cura) and it's been printing stuff fine then you probably have a 0.4mm.

 

Don't worry, I've got my own stuff right now, and sometimes my brain just drops things and says "nope, not today". So do things as you're ready.

 

Yep! Just double check it by looking at the preview after you slice.

 

It's cool. Even if you did suddenly disappear I know you've learned stuff, so tine and effort not wasted.

 

Stuff prints just fine generally speaking, unless the retraction gives me hell as it often does, or it drags across the bed, oops lol so probably. I know I'll have to replace it so I don't wanna buy the wrong one.

 

Thanks for understanding, I'll print it over the night or tomorrow if nothing comes inbetween and show you how it went, I wanna fiddle with my file and read more thoroughly so I can put it into actual practice too, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

I also have other doubts about something I want to print that's I think as complex as this horse, but that will come later.

 

Thank you a lot and I wish you luck on your endeavors, I will be posting progress as soon as possible!

[Slashee_the_Cow 437]

BTW In the earlier post I just replaced the file with a slightly newer one so if you downloaded the older one then download the new one, I applied some fixes to the model.