Slashee_the_Cow

You should be more worried about it melting through the top layer of the build plate and exposing the metal sheet underneath (it's happened to me). This is why I use my own custom definition. Still, try changing the startup gcode to: M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate G28 ;Home M420 S1; Use saved mesh leveling data G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z5 F3000 ;Move nozzle up G1 X0 Y20 F5000.0 ;Move to start position M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 20} ; Start heating bed M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating hot end M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set bed temperature and wait M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set hotend temperature and wait G0 Z0.28 ; Lower nozzle G1 X0 Y100.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y100.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 E-1.0000 F1800 ;Retract a bit G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 E0.0000 F1800 That'll keep the nozzle at 5mm off the bed until it's hot, and instead heating the bed all the way THEN heating the hot end because I find the hot end heats up quicker than the bed, it waits until the bed has warmed to 20° below its final temperature, tells the hot end to start heating up, then waits for both the bed and hot end to heat up. Let's just say that whoever is maintaining the definition in Cura... I'm not a fan of their work.

Is that the Z seam? If it's overextruding just slightly at the Z seam you might want to try turning on Experimental > Enable Coasting and playing around with the settings, it looks like you'd want it fairly low, but I use the setting which is basically the opposite of coasting (Walls > Outer Wall Wipe Distance) so I can't tell you what "fairly low" is - just maybe start at the default and experiment. It makes the extruder stop extruding a little bit before it reaches the end with the idea being whatever is left in the nozzle should be enough to finish off that line without having anything left over to form a blob.

This isn't a solution, but I was curious too... many of them are null (the ones which are just 00s), several of them are Unicode characters without ASCII or ANSI equivalent (so they're only appearing in Notepad++ as their Unicode character codes): They all appear before what are probably either filenames or object names (like what extruder it applies to). I would say they're definitely not supposed to be human readable text. "PK" has several different forms when it comes to technology, but I'm wondering they're maybe Primary Keys of a database, unique identifiers? But there is some consistency: The first 30 or so bytes of the first and last lines are almost the same but there's a few different. I can't make any sense of them either. If anyone around here can, it's probably @ahoeben.

Hiya! Your always-trying-to-be-friendly assistant mod Slashee here. You'll probably get a better answer if you post this question in the UltiMaker 3D Printers board since your problem seems to have a lot to do with the hardware. If you're having a hardware problem with your printer, you should try searching the extensive knowledge base or contact support at the UltiMaker support site.

I haven't tried BTRFS but I'm assuming they don't like it and that means they have very poor taste. */me doesn't want to start a filesystem war* It's pretty much only Windows that uses backslashes in file paths. Everything else uses forward slashes.

You need to be running Cura 5.6 or higher (that's when they added a plugin for it) and then in your Cura configuration folder (in Cura go to Help > Show Configuration Folder) and inside that you go to the folder plugins/CuraEngineTiledInfill/CuraEngineTiledInfill/tiles/ and add your design as a .wkt file

Any chance you could post the exact gcode file you're trying to print? There might be something that explains how the printer is doing it (even if not why).

Technology troubleshooting step #1: Reboot it. It used to be "turn it off then on again" but Microsoft had to ruin that for everyone (in recent versions of Windows, rebooting it and turning it off then on again do different things by default). It's just good you didn't have to get to step #17 (threaten it with a hammer) or step #23 (hit it with the hammer) 🙂

There's no practical way to do it. They exist only in @burtoogle's fork of Cura.

The parts of your model aren't quite lined up: It could be getting caught when it attempts to print juuuuuust slightly further around than the main section. Also at the top, there's a small gap between the ring and the area surrounding it: It's because the ring is "rounder" (has more segments in its circle) than the model around it. The same applies to your coloured sections: Hard to see (so I added a highlight) but there's also some sections where the difference is enough that there's actually a gap between the two: There's absolutely no way I can say with any certainty that's what your problem is. But it definitely doesn't help. If it's trying to extrude slightly out of position relative to what's already there it could get a, especially if it's priming itself as it gets there. (Mod tip: you should probably edit your first post to change the title to something like "big blobs at colour change" or something like that)

It'd be awesome if you could attach a Cura project file (.3mf, get it ready then go to File > Save Project) of a print that has this problem so those of us with too much free time who hang around here could have a look and see if there's anything we can find that'd fix it.

I'm guessing a much less expensive printer than an S5, with a magnetic PEI/PC plate like my Ender-3 V3 SE. It would still be pretty damn impressive to be able to pull one of those plates off though (unless your magnets are exceptionally weak).

Okay so because I have too much time and/or refuse to not take everything as a challenge, here's a project file for a grid with (I hope) 0.2mm wide lines with 4mm between each wall, 0.1mm high (1 layer), I guessed you folks might still be using little nozzles, I can make a fatter version if you want, printed entirely as infill. I think it's changing the flow rates at intersections but it's definitely not making travel moves to avoid them: It's a UCP so you'll need Cura 5.7 to load it. UCP_grid - 5x5 0_2mm width 4mm gap.3mf

Walls will never overlap while printing, if they reach a line they've already done they'll travel to do another line. Infill will overlap because it's not there to look pretty. Going over (or through) an existing infill line will result in overextrusion, which likely means either a lump or the excess filament goes around and makes your corners even more round. Definitely worth a shot though.

I'm sure there are some people crazier than you or me out there who are working on that exact thing. Crazy thought I just had: could you make something with as perfect a corner as possible, about equal with your layer height (as long as that's thinner than how far the nozzle) stick it on your bed precisely in position and make the filament use that as a mould for the corners? Although I guess that would only work for a layer or two, tops... maybe not the most practical idea. But hey, I'm trying! We're awesome people making awesome things. Of course we're amazing, and we get collectively more amazing as people learn how to do things like you are!