4 hours ago, WernherS said:If you have set up Outer-Wall-Wipe-Distance in Cura, it then creates a wider seam. I would start by experimenting with either a reduced Outer-Wall-Wipe-Distance or even making it zero.
Outer wall wipe distance won't make your seam any wider and is used to help close the seam.
When it reaches the seam, it continues moving along the path for that wall a short distance without extruding, allowing anything left in the nozzle chamber to fill any potential gaps left from the extrusion not happening immediately at the seam when it starts printing that wall. If there isn't a gap to fill, you'll just get some overextrusion and a fat seam.
The opposite setting in Cura - that will make your seams wider - is Experimental > Enable Coasting. This makes it stop extruding slightly before the seam and leave it up to whatever is left in the nozzle chamber to finish that wall. If you have your coasting too high, then you'll get a gap leading up to your seam because nozzle chamber empties before it reaches the seam.
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Slashee_the_Cow 621
Cura doesn't natively support Klipper, though since Klipper runs on top of a subset of basic RepRap commands, in most cases, it's close enough.
You might have to point out the problems more specifically - all I can see is a little bit of stringing (entirely reasonable) and an extremely visible Z seam (usually just a matter of tweaking the settings until you get it right).
For what it's worth, there's a plugin available in the Marketplace called "Klipper Settings"
I honestly have no idea what things it can do (I've only ever used Marlin on my printers) but there might be something in there that can help you.
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WernherS 0
I have noticed on my prints that the Z seam has become wider after I started using Klipper. My suspicion is that it is a matter of double compensation. If you have set up input shaping in Klipper it endeavors to accurately disperse the filament. If you have set up Outer-Wall-Wipe-Distance in Cura, it then creates a wider seam. I would start by experimenting with either a reduced Outer-Wall-Wipe-Distance or even making it zero. Also, with Klipper you want to remove all jerk settings as Klipper takes care of that.
Apart from that you should have generally better print quality and much better control of your printer and improved speed. I am finding that I generally have at least a 25% speed increase on my Ender 3 s1 Pros as well as an older Ender 3 Pro that I all run on Klipper with Raspberry Pis. Another eye-opener for me was how screw-tilt-adjust improved my bed levelling on all my printers. Even though I spent a lot of time levelling with paper, I always had areas where I had bad spots. Somehow using screw-tilt-adjust has improved it a lot and it is also a lot easier to now do frequent checks to keep it right.
Edited by WernherSI made an inadvertent mistake when I first posted.
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