Keep us posted Shark, id be interested in trying this out if they get it sorted.
Keep us posted Shark, id be interested in trying this out if they get it sorted.
Will do Skint. I have a Canadian customer who gets back from Florida in 5 weeks time and he wants some stuff to be waiting for him, so getting this sorted is high on my priority list.
I've just completed two 40-hour prints with 645 with no problems, so it is at least possible to get reliable large prints with it, if you get a bowden tube with good tolerances.. I've ordered the new Bridge filament also, will be interesting to try.
Perhaps you could update us with your Bridge experiences Jino.
I am using 645 because of its bio-chem properties
What bed and extruder temps did you use for the 645?
Hi,
A bit of topic sorry but i'm looking at nylon and i was wondering if the fumes are annoying or not?
I read http://www.taulman3d.com/645-features.html which claims that the fumes are not toxic but does it smell?
The do say that you have to ventilate the room so i was wondering.
My Ultimaker 2 is in the room next to my daughter's bed room i don't want her to breath something bad...
From my limited use of 645, maybe 6 hours printing, I detected nothing and the workshop was not ventilated. The same applies to t-glase but that was with very limited usage.
I have tried a couple prints with the bridge, printing at the standard 3.0 diameter and .4 nozzle. It extrudes fine, but I can't get it to stick after about 5 layers. Always starts to pull up in the same corner but I know the bed is level
I'm using a heated bed at 100 and hairspray; I also tried on garolite with Elmers, but no luck.
What else can I try?
Well you could try a lower bed temp.. When I was trying t-glase unsuccessfully I read a post from one guy who was using around 40 degrees with success and another guy who was using 110 degrees. Now that makes no sense but it could be you are running the bed just too hot. Unfortunately, at least the last time I looked, the Taulman website makes no comment on bed temperatures.
I ran 645 successfully with 60degrees.
Thanks for the tip, I thought of the same thing during my last print, because 70 degrees is also apparently no good either.
I did have the foresight to print a massive brim on the object, and I ended up taping the entire thing down with Kapton.
haha whatever works.
I'll try lowering the temp again on my next try.
Hi, now I have finally tried the bridge also. For me the filament is 2.85mm, if you also have that diameter you should change the diameter setting in the printer or it will not extrude enough material. Make sure the nozzle is very close to the surface.. I usually adjust the height on the fly while it is printing the brim. The lines on the brim should flow into each other..
Bridge is the best nylon I have tried yet. I have only tried small prints, but I can use glue stick on glass! It appears to be sticking a little better and also warps less, like it says on the Taulman webpage. I use a 5 line brim and 40 degree buildplate. 247 degree nozzle.
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yellowshark 153
I heard today, direct from the horses mouth, that following the uptake of 3D in Europe and Ultimaker users trying nylon, Taulman retooled and the size is now set to 2.85 with a maximum of 3.00. It seems that originally a lot of units (in the States?) were using 4mm ID bowdens. My UK supplier offered to replace my spool and we agreed to wait until their imminent new delivery in case their stock contains any of the old measurement. It appears that the label has not been changed to say 2.85. so it is not obvious what you have.
I am going to print a width gauge and run the spool through it when it arrives in about 2 weeks
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