Mannually feeding filament

[Dreddpool82 0]

As the topic says, is is possible to feed filament in manually while printing?
I recently got some clear/transparent filament and while trying to do a test print it keeps messing up, the filament
keeps piling up at the extruder and isn't printing as it should.
Now I know someone is gonna say I have a level bed problem, but i don't as I just changed to blue Filament and started the same test print and it's working fine.
So to my question, if i cut the blue off above the feed point and then feed in the clear and

essentially change colour mid print with out have to stop and go through the machines add filament option and then have it mess up again, or would this be to hard hard as the feeder/extruder keeps moving as it's printing.

I have noticed lately that when i changed colour that it doesn't seem to want to play ball so to speak, but if i switched back to the previous colour
it works fine, even with out a re-leveling before starting the next print.

Edited June 13 by Dreddpool82

[GregValiant 1,370]

Some filaments (anything "white" and any "PLA silkys" in particular) need different settings.  It has to do with the material used as the colorant.  If you do a filament change you may need to set the temperature differently for each material.

Speed is another factor and layer cooling can also contribute to a problem.  The amount of pressure exerted by the extruder pressure arm might come into play.

 

What printer are we talking about?  Feeding manually during a print would not be a good idea.

Edited June 13 by GregValiant

[Dreddpool82 0]

I have a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator I3, got any suggestions as to the settings for the clear filament or should i try google?

[GregValiant 1,370]

Test prints are your friend.  You should be able to "Tune" a print from the LCD.

 

An alternative is to manually add some commands every so many layers.  "M220 S" is % feedrate, "M221 S" is % flow, and "M104 S" would change the print temperature.

 

If you slice a calibration cube with a feedrate of 100mm/sec and put an M220 S25 line at ";LAYER:0" the print will actually start at 25mm/sec.  As you tune the feedrate on the LCD the % reading would always be the actual feedrate.  That makes it a bit easier to figure out.

A temperature tower would help with the printing temperature to dial in what the material likes.  Start at the cool end of the recommended temperature range and move up to the high end every so many layers.

[Slashee_the_Cow 457]

There's a plugin available (click Marketplace at the top right) called "AutoTowers Generator" which makes printing test towers for things like temperature easy as pie.