I think my extruder temp sensor is damaged!!

[kinginnovator 6]

Hey recently during a build my plug came out from the temp sensor to the extruder which caused a catastrophic melt down of the reactor (AKA) Peek upper part. Got a new one and re-installed everything and now I have deduced after many attempts that my sensor was damaged in the event (the bottom aluminum block isn't getting quite hot enough to allow the plastic to flow). I know it works but the max temp that I can set everything to in the program is 270C. I need to set it higher to compensate for the damage. Is there a way to re-calibrate it's setting somewhere? Using print run and skeinpypy.. Is there code for this?

Thanks!

[Daid 306]

You can set an gain and offset in

http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/

at "AD595 calibration"

However, first check your temperature sensor. If the isolation is damage, it might be making a short with the block or the other wire, this will cause the temperature readings to be wrong. Also make sure all screws are tight on the thermocouple board on top of the hotend.

[kinginnovator 6]

Hey Daid, just the guy I was hoping would respond, you know everything and help everyone.. Doesn't look like I'm having a short at all but it's hard to see if that is so because of the metal sheathing around the two wires. That being said I don't know how to install your firmware nor how to make adjustments from that program. Is there a step by step to it?

[Daid 306]

Hey Daid, just the guy I was hoping would respond, you know everything and help everyone..

I do my best I'm just a wise-ass pretending to know everything.

 

Doesn't look like I'm having a short at all but it's hard to see if that is so because of the metal sheathing around the two wires. That being said I don't know how to install your firmware nor how to make adjustments from that program. Is there a step by step to it?

Using my site is quite simple. But you will get the latest Marlin that way. I'm not sure what other software you are using and if there are incompatibilities.

Steps should be:

1) Make sure you run windows (that's just easier)

2) Fill in the settings you need. The defaults are good, so for a normal build you don't need to change anything for the Ultimaker.

3) If you are using NetFabb or RepG25/26 to generate GCode and print, you might want to change the "steps per unit" setting, for "E" the default is "865.888", but for those older tools you need "14"

4) Press [build Marlin] at the bottom

5) Wait a minute (building takes a while)

6) On the page that's loaded now, you'll get a "Download: Windows install zip", download that zip file.

7) Extract it somewhere

8) Run the "upload.bat" at the extracted location.

9) Enter the COM port at which the ultimaker can be found.

10) Watch the magic happen.

[kinginnovator 6]

I got your firmware to work, thank you! Now another question. The http link you gave me that takes me to the marlin page, is that available on my desktop? I downloaded the marlin folder but don't see it in there. There is an exe file but I'm running vista and it doesn't open.

Another question, my extruder keeps jamming up with melted plastic in the bowden tube from the back pressure of the extrusion process any ideas? I've increase the temp slowed down the extruder feed rate with no luck. What do you think is happening here?

[nick4u1 0]

270c is peak limit, but I was made aware that it can be overidden by fooling it believe that when it think its 150 its actually 200c and then of course scaling it up.

[mr_seeker 0]

Another question, my extruder keeps jamming up with melted plastic in the bowden tube from the back pressure of the extrusion process any ideas? I've increase the temp slowed down the extruder feed rate with no luck. What do you think is happening here?

3 things:

1. You are printing too warm.

2. You are printing too slow.

3. Your nozzle has a jam.