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The problem is that the minimum layer time will not be respected if the printer as to slow down less than the min print speed. That value is set in the expert settings -> Cool -> Minimum speed.
That value is 10mm/s by default I think. So regardless the the min layer time you put it will not go slower than that speed. This causes the hot nozzle to melt the plastic in place.
If you enable the Cool head lift option just under the minimum speed you will notice 2 things:
- The head will lift and move away from the model whenever the min layer time cannot be respected.
- In Layer view you will see the blue toolpath showing the head lift but also the layers will be in dashed form instead of being in tick paths.
So you can:
- use cool head lift which will cause some small strings that are usually quite easy to remove
- print more than one version at the time
- add a tower next to your print to allow the print to cool more
- add a blob of geometry next to the object at the layer you start needing it so it cover the layer time. This is what I usually do.
The full stable release of UltiMaker Cura 5.4 is here and it makes it easier than ever to remove brims and supports from your finished prints. UltiMaker S series users can also look forward to print profiles for our newest UltiMaker PET CF composite material!
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pm_dude 27
Hi furball,
I had the same issue at the beginning
The problem is that the minimum layer time will not be respected if the printer as to slow down less than the min print speed. That value is set in the expert settings -> Cool -> Minimum speed.
That value is 10mm/s by default I think. So regardless the the min layer time you put it will not go slower than that speed. This causes the hot nozzle to melt the plastic in place.
If you enable the Cool head lift option just under the minimum speed you will notice 2 things:
- The head will lift and move away from the model whenever the min layer time cannot be respected.
- In Layer view you will see the blue toolpath showing the head lift but also the layers will be in dashed form instead of being in tick paths.
So you can:
- use cool head lift which will cause some small strings that are usually quite easy to remove
- print more than one version at the time
- add a tower next to your print to allow the print to cool more
- add a blob of geometry next to the object at the layer you start needing it so it cover the layer time. This is what I usually do.
See the box on the tip?
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