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francfalco

Venkel shroud - 100% fan solution

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venkel shroud

venkel shroud with ceramic tape and heat shield

 

Hi all,

 

Just printed and installed the Venkel shroud and as suspected i had the 'temp error' shutdown. reducing fans to 60% stopped that but i wanted max cooling so, apart from the heat shield i also added some ceramic tape around the nozzle. Now i can run the fans at 100% with no problems.

 

But i'm now thinking will that give me too much cooling?

I tested the UM Robot and this new setup did improve the left ear, but i'm wondering if excessive cooling could cause problems?

 

ANy thoughts?

 

Cheers

 

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Have you already tried this?

YouMagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-cpv9

Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:697481

You no longer need 12 screws. You do not need optional insulators / reflectors. In linear slowly increasing fan performance up to 100 percent, there is no risk to get a heater error. Optimal Maximization of fan performance for object-cooling and separated print head cooling.

Cons:

There is a little wider on the X-axis. The fans must already be active with the first layer at 15-25 percent. It is necessary to protect the fan cages, and depending on the material used for the cages, while large first layer be placed. On special print platforms this is not a problem. On glass surfaces, it has not been tested.

Markus

 

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If the Heater problem is solved, there is no compelling reason to try a different design. Unless, you are not completely satisfied with the results. Please do not get me wrong, i earn no money with the presentation of my designs and I want to offer you only one possible alternative to try out :-)

The only important thing that the cooling air flow is not negatively affected the Hotend. I think an extreme object-cooling is not a problem but not mandatory. So the fan power and noise can be significantly reduced if the object quality can not be further increased ...

 

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Understood Markus, thanks for giving me options.

Out of interest, have you any example pictures to show the before and after print quality improvement using your design?

I've always thought the filament cooling was a weak point with the printer so any user designed improvements are always of interest to me.

Thanks for sharing!

 

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I think the only really important thing in object-cooling is to prevent warping of the freshly deposited material. To solidify the fresh material very fast, efficient cooling is required. If the material cools very slowly, and also takes a lot of heat from the build platform, it warps up and that is not good for the subsequent layers.

This is also the reason for the desire for the lowest possible temperatures of Hotend and build platform. A strongly heated building surface can cause negative geometric changes of an object, which are usually visible to the naked eye.

I have been printed mostly constructive objects and a pot, but also a UltiRobot with good looking ears on both sides. Only the pot is visible in the corresponding forum thread. The Robot I have to reprint, because this I have given away, but something's very fast re-printable. But now have larger print jobs priority, and I have currently only a single printer.

LINK: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9706-lets-talk-about-12-screws/

So if you, want to fine structures print very quickly, then a conventional air cooling will never be enough. You need a method for quick freezing :mrgreen:

 

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