gadgetfreak
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3D Prints
Posts posted by gadgetfreak
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I ordered mine now!
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Might transparency be related to cooling? Maybe less cooling? Haven't tried that though.
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I printed small objects at 50mm/s on 225C which is on the low end for XT according to Colorfabb but still very milky. Otherwise it looks good. I also want to unlock the secret to transparency!!
Btw, the XT filament is not PLA but an "amorphous copolymer". Glass transition temp is 75C.
Daniel
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Aaaand....we have 100% funding!!
Thingster, you have a bunch of really happy people here waiting for your magic
/Daniel and 17 other Stockholm Makerspace Members as backers
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92%, almost there!!
Thingster, after this is completed I need a couple of days to collect the money and then make the transfer during next week.
I sent you a private message yesterday on how you'd like it transferred (PayPal, IBAN etc), did you get it?
The members are crazy for this machine, me might need to include you in the transport for a 3D printing launch party in Stockholm
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Ian, this is completely manual....through one thread in our Makerspace forum and another thread in a Facebook Members group
We've actually been talking about building an [open-source] crowdfunding platform in our Makerspace, but the initiator of it has not had time for a while now, so it's paused.
77%
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I wonder this as well...but please don't change your mind
73%
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Really cool to see!
I guess that EOS are making a lot of money these days
A lot of EOS P machines in the video.Is there anyone in here with experience of the Eosint M2XX machines by chance?
The M series for sintering metal with laser, that is.
We have bought a 14 year old Eosint M250 eXtended second hand to our Makerspace but it seems to be a complex beast to operate and even get started...
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Thanks Illuminarti
60% then, time for coffee
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55%
Am I SPAMming the forum with too many updates....? Just say so, and I'll stop doing it so frequently
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LOL Ian your are so full of....fun
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Ian: if you want to practice your Swedish
, here's a list of our current machines:https://www.makerspace.se/wiki/Maskiner
[off topic]
The space is quite recently started so we don't have too many machines yet. The laser cutter is "almost" done (has been hacked/upgraded a lot). We are also trying to fit in an Eosint M250 SLS metal laser 3D printer that we crowdfunded, but it has turned out to be quite difficult from both safety and operations and housing perspective so it's still in storage...
[/offtopic]
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Mastory: Agreed!
If we fund and buy thingsters machine, it will be documented on our public Makerspace wiki machine pages. Most of the information there is currently in Swedish but I'll make sure this one will be covered in English
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Haha, darn it I took my coffee early this morning ;-)
51% now
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Thanks Ian
Now we're up to 42% funding.
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25% funded by Stockholm Makerspace
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Crowdfunding by members now started, in just a few hours we now have 17% of your price funded
This printer will get lots of usage and love at our Makerspace in Stockholm, Sweden I can promise you that!
Daniel
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I would like to buy this for our Stockholm Makerspace, it sounds like a really nice machine with all the upgrades!
I need to check whether we can crowdfund it (we crowdfunded our laser cutter in just some days).
How long can you wait? Is 1-2 weeks ok before you could get the money?
Cheers,
Daniel
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Hi Chopmeister,
I know the feeling of wanting to make stuff yourself.
I actually bought a Proxxon PD/230E "mini" lathe around Christmas for making stuff.
The PD400 would have been a nicer size for making say a hotend, but that was too expensive.
The problem with me is that I love tools. And 3D printing. So I end up buying a lot of tools and 3D print related stuff and then I lack the time to learn all it. Well ok, eventually I usually do learn and use most of my tools and machines - and it's such a good feeling when you finally do that.
My lathe has proven useful to me for exact hole drilling and so on but I haven't done any actual "lathework" on it yet.
I guess it will come in the future...
But I did spend hundreds of hours in research before I got mine, and after that I've also talked to people with a lot more experience.
What I do know is this:
The basic price of a new lathe will only be about half of the total price. You will most likely want to spend just as much - very possibly more - on accessories. Many of which would be considered "mandatory".
Of course, with a lathe it's possible - and fun - to make some of those accessories yourself. But accessories will be expensive.
That is also the reason why many people would recommend you to buy a used one. Good quality lathes can last many decades and many that was produced in the 40s/50s/60s still work or can be refurbished.
I think there are quite a lot of good lathes "out there". But there are of course a lot of things to keep in mind.
Some good references:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/books.htm
(I bought many of the books myself and much of the information is simply not available online)
http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/ShopTips/tiplist.html (not only lathe-related but still good).
Maybe that was not too much help but I wish you good luck!
Cheers
Daniel
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Thanks guys. I have new hotend parts, but no time to try them on yet. And I get my big Delta Tower printer tomorrow or Tuesday so I hope that I will take the time needed to fix my Ultimaker so I can print in parallel
Clear Clogged Hot Ends with metal wire through Bowden Tube ?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Ian, I read that Laywood might clog with smaller than 0.5mm hotends so you might want to use a 0.5mm one instead of your 0.4mm one.
Here is the reference I found:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2868/nice-print-with-laywood3/
It might also be that different rolls have different "wood particle size" because this is still kind of a beta filament...I'm receiving 60 rolls of laywood / laybrick next week, really keen on testing it on both my Ultimaker and Delta Tower. But now with your experience I might switch to 0.5mm nozzle in the Ulti :-)
About the actual cleaning I think that Georges suggestion sounds interesting.
If the particles are bigger than the nozzle hole then you need to clear the way from the top.
For other types of clogging I've used some of these thin steel "needles" you use to clean nozzles for welding equipment. From the nozzle tip side then.