gadgetfreak
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Posts posted by gadgetfreak
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Nice work Robert!
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Use Colorfabb which has proven to be excellent
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Illuminarti: I think the Faberdashery filament is excellent but only works for shorter prints (<5 hours). Even with a lazywe Susan setup I've had tangling problems with prints that are 10 hours or more and unattended...how long prints works for you with the turntable? We often do 10-30 hour prints and need them to be as failsafe as possible.
We
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Would be good to know more details...
Room temperature? (almost never reported but very important that it is not too cold)
Filament type?
Settings used?
Object shape and size?
Pictures would be good, video even better...
We print PLA-based filament with 60C and copolyester/PET (Colorfabb XT) with 75C bed.
The glue stick helps against warping although we haven't had any warping problems.
/Daniel
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I agree with your comments Illuminarti.
Also I'd like to add that when heating the head manually, it should not start at 0 as it takes way too many turns of the wheel to get it up to 180 and above.
In the repetier firmware for our Delta Tower, when you heat up manually it starts at 170 (once your start turning the wheel) so you do not have to turn to many times. I think it's a very small change and smart
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We have had small pieces of the UM2 glass plate transfer to a print, this was when using Colorfabb XT with 75C bed temp. We had to switch side on the plate.
In the beginning of UM2 printing I was a bit impatient so I used cooling spray for some prints to quickly chill the bed plate. My theory was that the quick temperature change perhaps made small cracks to cause this. But now that others are having this problem, I'm not so sure...
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We have a lot of laybrick and the look, feel and extrusion properties are great. The main problem is that it does not come on spools and it is easy to break. Illuminarti, any advice on respooling and if you can make it less brittle?
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I use it in combination with a good webcam (Logitech C920, Full HD quality) and have Skype set up to auto answer. It works pretty well.
I would like a wireless remote controlled motorised pan and tilt camera with the same resolution but I think it would be extremely expensive...so the Logitech is good value.
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I use a GSM relay that shuts off or on when I send it a text message. You need a SIM pre-paid card of course.
About 200EUR for the GSM relay here in Sweden.
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What speeds are you printing at? I've just had to tighten pulleys once, where one pulley had come loose after initial shipping. After loosening, adjusting the black spacers to the sides while keeping the rod aligned with chassis and then tightening them I have not had to re-tighten them. Many long prints of which one was 44 hours and multiple 11 hours. Though I have mainly printed these at 50mm/s and one 11 hour print at 100mm/s.
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Thanks Daid. It would be nice to know all current issues as we are putting a lot of time into UM2 and trying to use it for customer projects...
For reference, I do have the 13.10-5 firmware.
I know you told me of:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/SecretMarlin/issues
but it only lists the ABS temp bug I already reported and you fixed.
Where are all the other issues reported? Both firmware and Cura-related I mean.
Is there a public list?
Really looking forward to all the bug fixes.
Daniel
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The frame already has holes for a filament guide and it works really well.
It was apparently meant for future dual spool setup and was only available on some pre-production units (of which we have one).
The filament guide is supposed to go into the lower back holes and it works very well. I have a couple of hundred of hours of printing already with this.
I already recommended that they should include it.
It should not be too hard to print one that is designed for those mounting holes; most likely I can put up a picture tomorrow.
I only found a picture from far away put I hope it explains what I mean:
Cheers
Daniel
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I have a 10-hour print (customer model) that finishes prematurely. The other day it had finished at "3 minutes left" and when I arrived several hours after it was supposed to have finished it just stands there, bed heat is on and a little blob.
The first print it was actually also missing layers (more than "3 minutes").
I have resliced will all kinds of settings and repaired it with NetFabb (it actually found some holes).
But still it finishes prematurely at "1 min left". I'm going Bonkers.
This is my start of the gcode:
-----------------
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 13.11
;FLAVOR:UltiGCode
;TIME:36883
;MATERIAL:90346
;total_layers=234
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F3600 X30.44 Y73.91 Z0.30
;TYPE:SKIRT
G11
G1 F1200 X32.74 Y73.91 E0.34470
G1 X32.98 Y73.80 E0.38476
G1 X33.57 Y73.60 E0.47868
[...]
...........
and this is at the end:
[...]
G0 F9000 X183.21 Y153.02
G1 F3000 X182.35 Y153.88 E9785.13059
M107
G0 F9000 X182.35 Y153.88 Z28.53
Why doesn't Ultigcode have a
";End GCode"
and heated bed heater off?
I kind of recall it did but now even when reverting to UM2 default profile settings, nothing even the UM robot has this??
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We've had the UM2 for four weeks now and printed mostly without the glue stick. It's great for presentation and demos. However, depending on model, plastic type and how careful you level your bed, sometimes you need the glue stick. And when I started a 44 hour print I wanted to be pretty sure it stayed put
But usually it would come loose within the first 10 layers or so if it sticks by then it usually sticks the whole print.Actually yesterday we started a 10 hour print with Colorfabb XT and left office. It had come loose shortly after and actually molten XT had filled the entire fan shroud, it took two hours to clean out :( we had the bed set for 70C but we made another try today where we put the bed to 75C and that print just finished beautifully. T(g) of XT is 75C so that makes sense
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I normally never use rafts myself but I think it might be unwise to brush it off like this. Professional machines use rafts a lot. I know a very (15 years) experienced 3D printing entrepreneur who always use rafts and say that when you do you almost never have to care about bed leveling. Perhaps only few slicers implement rafts well. Netfabb has very good raft support for example.
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Thanks for sharing
Did you try the E3D hotend or "only" with you own design? The Delta Tower is using this among others.
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Daid, did you try to develop an all metal hotend?
Is it in the works?
Would be nice to print Nylon and other hotter materials.
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Daid, is the SD card error not at qll related to using SDHC cards? We had the error but only when using SDHC cards I think...are they supported?
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Colorfabb XT has a glass transition temp at around 70-75C and sticks very well to blue painters tape.
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Daid, will it be possible to change the max 260 degrees setting manually somehow to have a higher limit?
I have a memory of you saying you tested the new hotend up to 350 degrees (or was I dreaming?) and it would open up more materials to print with...
Thanks
Daniel
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My fellow Swede beat me to it!
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Peter, in your machine settings, set the "Printer gantry height" to be 0 (or smaller than the tallest item is the actual test in Cura I think), then it will print them in parallel.
The tallest items you could print "serially" is the same as gantry height, which for an Ultimaker 1 is 60mm.
You'll find more details in this thread:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/mMrYI7Au1Dc
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Prints with narrow top parts (like the antennae) might always be better to print several at a time simultaneously, otherwise the time for cooling is not enough. I got this confirmed from Paul (Bluebot) who is the Ultimaker quality print master since a couple of years back
though that example was with the OK hand model. I'm guessing this might be "the trick" here, but it's only a guess... -
I'm not really using ABS, but as I use Colorfabb XT a lot which needs at least 225-230C to flow easily in my Ultimaker 1 and 2, I would really like to use the ABS profile.
Even better would be to be able to add new materials for the "Change" procedures.
I can change a temperature setting in "Customize" however that gets overwritten whenever I select PLA again.
Also, I'm not sure the "Customized" temperature setting is used when doing the "change procedure". It's hard to tell as the temperature is not displayed
But usually it would come loose within the first 10 layers or so if it sticks by then it usually sticks the whole print.
Help for a newb
in Coffee corner
Posted
I suspect a bug, we also need to manually raise the head temperature after installing fw 13.11.2 even after waiting for heated bed to go up to temperature.