xeno
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3D Prints
Posts posted by xeno
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I made an Urn from a vase, it holds 3 cats already,
you could easily draw a 3d model from it, if you can't I can do that for you
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Remember you get what you pay for !
There are different opinions about China stuff, some say good some say pretty bad, but I wouldn't want to have a fire hazard in my house
and you might not be able to print any decent prints (or after a while) without replacing shoddy materials with better and more expensive ones,
why not buy a UM1+ ?
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So true Xeno
I was planning on buying a Einscan-S scanner, but the price was a lot more, and was too late to get the early bird special, but I heard they were already working on a more accurate version,
and will probably be another Kickstarter 4+month project, until then I can experiment with the Eora scanner.
and maybe the Eora scanner will get even better with the large amount of pledges.
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I backed it, I was already looking into 3D scanning, and this was the best resolution for a small price.
and because of the low pricing ( for a comparable scanner), it won't be a huge problem, if they won't deliver.
backing a kickstarter is always a risk,
the worst thing about Kickstarter for me is the delivery time, I am almost sure that between now and June next year there will probably be a better scanner available
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I also have a lot of problems visiting the site, and get a lot of 404's
and when I click a page I get an eternal spinning sign, and it never loads :(
fix it please :angry:
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This was not printed with an Ultimaker, so I don't think it would fit into the latest print section
it was printed as one solid piece 1,3 Meter in length.
I can't talk about it in detail yet, I was just hired to do the paint work
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I worked on a fantastic large scale 3D print project,
and this is before and during my paint work, I hope to be able to show more later
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I use an empty large spool, but before I had an empty one I printed something like this:
Or adjustable, as Fabadashery spools have a large diameter:
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- check without power if the print head can be easily moved by hand
- check if the frame is without damage and still sturdy
- check with callipers if the size of the printed object is correct, and print a long object, not a small cube.
- don't let it print slow, use a fast setting, to see if there are any mechanical problems.
- test if exchanging filament goes without problems.
- check the temperature of the heated bed.
- and see what guarantee duration he gives after purchase.
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You could try the carbon fibre material, but at 1.5mm it is not going to be easy,
if it needs to be a plastic, try resin and fiberglass or carbon fibre, I think you can buy simple fiberglass repair kits, and is easy (but messy) to do.
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Just curious if there is any update about this
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Well, I have a prototype structured light scanner. Could well be that the source code of that is open sourced soon.
What kind of resolution are you getting with your setup ?
smaller then 0.1mm.
I am very interested in a 3D scanner, but for small objects.
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I am also looking for a good 3D scanner, and right now the Einscan-S is the best quality and price combinations.
when looking for a scanner, don't bother with scanners that can't scan 0.1mm or better.
with the 0.1mm accuracy, you can scan and object and enlarge the part, with all other cheap scanners you just get an overall shape with little detail, and an image overlay to pretend there is detail.
I have been saving up for this scanner, but also heard rumors about a newer and better version in the works, I still have to decide what to do
The einscan setup is very easy, and I have seen some great results, of the software is also very functional en get updated regularly.
Here is a forum that talks about the Einscan, and also has developers responding to questions.
http://3dprintboard.com/forumdisplay.php?130-Einscan-S-3D-scanner
and some scan results:
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You could try transparent XT, that turns whitish semi transparent, when you use infill.
Not my pic:
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I only print with USB (MacMini)
the main advantages for me are, not to have the printer in the same room,
being able to use a webcam to see whats going on, and remote control the printer and Cura.
and with apps I can also watch and control the printer from my iPad or iPhone anywhere I am.
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I never bought an Ulticontroller, because of the small screen size, no webcam support.
But now there is an official Pi touchscreen, that would be a great way to control the UM original.
and small enough to attach it to the UM and to use as a total controller.
http://www.engadget.com/2015/09/08/raspberry-pi-official-touchscreen-display/
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Glad to see you are up and running,
don't forget to print the little Umo robot, it's a great way to test the printer.
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As far as I can see it's a solid object,
so, best is to redraw just the outline of the shape, and making sure all lines are attached to each other, and then extrude to the correct height.
or perform a bolean to connect all the solid parts as one part.
this fault happens when there is a very slight gap somewhere, and the fastest solution is to redraw with closed lines.
and sometimes certain programs are not good at exporting STL files, and create gaps.
don't use the latest Cura, just grab an older one, and experiment with the "Fix Horrible"settings
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So the €350 difference is with all the shipping costs ?
that's a little below the edge where I would still buy the kit, and be sure to have good working parts
It's shows that buying China parts can still be a hit or miss.
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That is some nice info, good and bad
but how did you do pricewise, a big difference or close to the full price of the UM kit ?
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on this site they recommend ± 235°C
http://www.formfutura.com/285mm-limosolve-hips.html
And make sure that you don't use the latest Cura, it's still a bit beta and misses "some" features,
changing the temp in Cura is simple, just switch to expert menu, and change the temp value.
you probably have to experiment to get the perfect temp, just like all filament, the need a certain temp to print a certain way
I look forward to your results, I am also interested in printing with HIPS,
just take care to keep the room well ventilated.
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I have a UM original, and print with a Mac Mini connected directly to the printer,
and I can control the printer from anywhere with Splashtop Streamer on both Mac and IOS, and Cam Cam on IOS, so I can see and control from anywhere.
When the printer is running I can watch on my iPad what is going on upstairs
I was very disappointed that on the UM2 you can no longer print via USB, and have to resort to Octoprint or such to do the same.
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Did you take pictures of the first damaged printer,
compare those to the new one, maybe a different nozzle, or something.
it's just weird
or just kick some sense into the printer
Looking for model support suggestions
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by Guest
I would print it standing upright, leaning back slightly,
You would only need support on the ass and back parts of the legs,
Saves a lot of cleanup work