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3D Prints
Posts posted by xeno
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sometimes I also adjust while printing, when it is printing a border around the object, I can clearly see if the nozzle is too high or low at certain places, and I adjust the knobs under the platform by hand
especially with woodfill kind of material, the first layer is the hardest to get to stick (no heated bed), and very slight adjustment will help a lot.
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If it doesn't ooze anymore there, I just leave it alone,
it will carbonise and turn brown / black in time, and will keep any leaks plugged
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Usually the paper thickness is good, but it all depends on what the first layer height you have set in Cura
I started to use these, and they work perfectly to set a accurate height.
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As far as I know you can use 3mm filament without problems, but make sure there is no deviation in the 3mm (thicker then 3mm), as it might get stuck in the bowden tube.
some users have added a tiny drop of oil in the bowden tube, to help the filament through,
this does not impact the print.
just change the setting in Cura from 2.85 (standard) to 3mm in the expert settings, and you are set to go
but measure the filament when you get it, it might be advertised as 3mm, but still be 2.85mm
this makes it confusing when ordering filament
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Cura 15.6 is still very Beta, I would stay away for now,
and 15.04 is probably the best you are going to get, and that is a great piece of software,
or you will have to look for other paid software.
I also experience the scaling factor, but when it happens, it's always 10X too small.
and no biggy to scale.
I always check the size in the scale option, to make 100% sure it is the correct size.
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This is one of the most promising options, but we won't make any promises about it until we've tested it.
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That looks great, and a much better overview of the settings, a lot less scrolling.
it's something I really liked from the "old" Cura
And most screens have a lot of screen room on the side, maybe making it an option to have two rows of settings ?
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Even if you dial in all the factors to compensate for print deformation,
you still could get some size differences due to object size, layer cooling times and wall thickness around the hole,
I just chose to get as close as I can, and use a drill to make it accurate.
as a tip, make the wall thickness a little more, so you have some material left when you drill the holes
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That depends on a multitude of factors,
filament, temperature, speed, infill, wall thickness..........
best is to make a small test print with the hole size you want, and dial in all the settings, then print the object.
or buy a 7.95mm drill to drill out the holes to the exact diameter (what I usually do)
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I was bound to happen, lets see how they get out of that one
and if non US users can get in on the deal.
http://www.engadget.com/2015/07/11/makerbot-class-action-lawsuit/?ncid=rss_truncated
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I just got a spam message in my private mesagge
from samirabest, please ban this bastard.
https://ultimaker.com/user/samirabest
Hello dearMy name is Samira I am a single girl,
Please contact me with my Email i have something to tell you[ samirabest1 010 @ hotmail .com
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cool!
what kind of resin do you use?
Just your average epoxy resin, tinted to a specific colour and transparency
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nice work!
how did you do the resin cast?
cheers!
I made a silicone mold of the part, and cast it 10 times,
I already made a new mold, that has all 10 parts in one mold.
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It is also a problem when getting orders from 3DHubs,
sometimes the STL is so small the price calculated is a lot less then it should be,
I can scale it in Cura, but sometimes I have to cancel an order because of this size difference :(
sometimes it is a wrong size setup in the CAD program they use, and some CAD programs are very bad at exporting to STL.
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I wish someone told at the release it was still beta, so I would not have posted all my frustration,
and looked like a dick again !
I will wait for the announcement New Cura is now usable
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Haven't posted here in a while,
I had an order for a Stargate I haven't made in a long time, and I lost one of the parts molds,
so I thought why not print it and make a new mold
Printed in PLA white
cleaned up the part, made 10 copies (1 extra), in tinted resin.
and painted these in the same paint scheme as the rest of the Stargate.
and whole gate, just to show off
The Stargate is 1 meter (40") in diameter
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If you print very fine layers, it might look like it is touching "scraping"the previous layer,
if you print big layers 0.2 0.3 you should really see the height difference between layers.
also the shadows of the print head can play tricks on you eyes, and it sometimes even looks like the print is moving during printing
But if your prints come out looking great, then just keep going
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xeno, here is a bit of friendly advice.
Long story
I hear what you are saying, grovel and play nice, and you might get the same functionality back as the old version ?
that's just misusing your "power" as software developer, when users were promised great software, and got ...less
please understand my frustration, don't get me wrong, I really love Cura, it's the best out there, and I know its "Free"
The layout, I can get used to, but waiting for months, even several years to get the same basic functions back.... is.....very.....disappointing.
We have been teased for a long time with all the fantastic capabilities it would have.
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Yeah alright, you got me on the Microsoft thing. (Should have used OSX)
But I find it sad, that most major updates of Cura is five steps backwards, and taking months to get back to where it was :(
At the moment a lot UM users that have made Hardware tweaks can't use the new Cura,
I find it a bit arrogant, that using the "Free" argument is used to mess with a lot the current users of Cura.
I do applaud you for having totally redone Cura from the ground up, but you could have at least had some more support for non Ultimaker users before releasing it.
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and now Cura can only be used by Ultimakers, and nothing else ?
you just cut of a huge chunk of users !
It's still usuable for non ultimakers, we just havent recieved any profiles yet. Other companies are free to add profiles (which they did in the past) but we're not going to spend resources on tweaking their machine with our software.
I have an Ultimaker with added height, and as long as I can't adjust the build size, I cannot use Cura !
we're not going to spend resources on tweaking their machine with our software.are you kidding ?
that's like microsoft releasing Win10 without any support for any peripherals, totally unusable.
I find that a bit of an arrogant attitude
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Is this Cura, Arkham Knight ? ....wow
Well, thats a bit of a harsh comparison. At least Cura runs on 30+ fps ;)I'm well aware that there is a lot missing, which is not all that strange considering that the old Cura is 2+ years old. But because it was that old (and never designed to be easily built upon) the code resembled a lot of the monster of frankenstein. Starting over does set you back with regards to features / functionality but will pay off in the long run.
Yeah I know but it was the first thing that came to mind opening the new Cura.
But as I see it, you released Cura 15.01, just to release something ?
I can understand the massive amount of work to rebuild the software from the ground up,
but releasing a version that is missing a great deal compared to the old version is a bit...
I think you need to have a word with your marketing department
and now Cura can only be used by Ultimakers, and nothing else ?
you just cut of a huge chunk of users !
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Is this Cura, Arkham Knight ? ....wow
please Daid read all the responses here, and make Cura a workable Cura again, there is a lot missing now.
and please add an option to zoom out...of the settings panel, it's a scroll fest !
I have an Imac 21" and the buttons look huge.
will check back in 3 months time
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Please someone with g-code knowledge have a look at this
Check if there is any dirt on z-axis gliders or thread.
Have you both tried to print a spiral vase at maximum heightand 0.2 or more layer height, as a test ?
it would be a good check it it is hardware or software related
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The UM2Go is the same as all the new UM's, just smaller and without heated bed,
so setting can be used on all UM2, UM Go and Extended. and even on the original UM
The best way to start.....is just to start , use the sample UM little robot, if you can print that without flaws then you are on your way
use one of the three standard setting, print and see what happens, if you see problems, post a pic and we can diagnose where problems lie.
and try to get familiar with the Cura advanced settings.
PLA STUCK IN BODEN TUBE - HELP PLEASE :)
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by Guest
I have had these problems a few times, the small piece has sharp edges and is bent a little,
and thus stuck in the tube.
I just bought a 50cm 3mm metal rod (alu, brass, steel or long welding rod at any DIY store), open one end of the bowden tube, and just push the small part out
if it is really stuck, just tap the metal end with a hammer, and it comes out in seconds.
that's why I hate cheap PLA, if you leave it for a few hours, after finishing, it breaks at the feeder, or even worse in several places inside the bowden tube :(