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  1. Hi everybody, i decided to sell my Ultimaker. The machine works fine but for the objects that i'd like to make i would need something that prints ABS, has an heated bed and also possibly an heated chamber so the Ultimaker was not the best choice for what i need to do. Ciao a tutti, ho deciso di vendere la mia Ultimaker. La macchina funziona correttamente ma per realizzare i miei oggetti avrei bisogno di una stampante che utilizzi ABS, abbia un piano riscaldato e magari anche una camera riscaldata quindi l'Ultimaker non è stata una scelta ottimale per quello che devo fare. http://www.ebay.it/itm/160829705054
  2. The fan + is the Purple wire.
  3. Material: Ultimaker Silver Temperature: 230°C Speed: 50mm/s perimeter, 100mm/s infill Layer height: 0.2mm or 0.3mm Fill-rate: 10% Fan: Yes, using Slic3r default parameters Slicer: Slic3r Firmware: Marlin built with Daid's BuildMeMarlin standard parameters Accurate temperature sensor: None Output quality: Good, some stringing but not a big deal This was my first print in this configuration, 0.3mm layers. Here I have already cleaned it. Now i always print at 0.2mm layer height. @Daid, i added the Fan to the list of conditions. Not sure if it makes much difference though.
  4. Ok, so today i got the PLA90 from OrbiTech and printed the same object again. It seems that the warping is the same as standard PLA. Here is the comparison: The first print warped 4-5mm from ground. The second print warped 3-4mm from ground, i pressed the blue tape to the platform to make it stick better and it proved to be a (little) improvement. The third print is incomplete and is a previous attempt with the metal gray standard PLA which came with the UM. It has a bit less warp but i'm sure that once completed it would have been like the second print. One idea would be to use a bigger nozzle so that less layers would be needed and so less warping would occour. But that does not solve the problem completely and also means worse finishing. I don't know if i should keep the UM or sell it.
  5. I'm using the metal gray PLA wire that came with my UM. Once in a while it stops extruding and if i try to push the wire by hand i feel that it is stuck indeed. I needed to pull it all out, cut half a meter and put it in again to make it work again. It just happened again and i noticed that this piece that i had to cut away has the same diameter of the rest but it doesn't crack if i bend it. The rest of the roll instead breaks if i try to bend it. Now i think that my extrusion problems are caused by the wire which must have some parts with different properties than the rest of the roll.
  6. This won't affect the print quality at all as the steppers motors always move a certain amount of steps. If it is not well lubrificated the motors will use a bit more current but they will give the same precision. Think of it like this: you can climb the stairs for 10 steps and then do the same thing carrying a shopping bag. In both cases you made 10 steps. Of course there's a limit: you can't climb the stairs with a bag which weights 1000kgs and for the same reason the motors may not be able to move correctly if there is not enought lubrification, but that's unlikely to happen and in any case you'll notice that easily as you would see the object built completely wrong.
  7. Hi guys, i'm experiencing the same issue while printing a box for my project. Today i ordered the PLA-90 from OrbiTech, i hope it will solve this issue. If not, i'll sell my Ultimaker. Boxes are the main type of objects that i need to print and i don't want to spend more money and time trying to get a heated platform/chamber working. I'll let you know my results.
  8. 1) I trimmed the connector just a bit with a cutter. 2) Mine is ok, no tape needed. I don't feel the need to replace it for the moment. Please note that the fan is placed *outside* the fanduct, in the middle between it and the main extruder assembly.
  9. When i plug the USB cable in, the PCB fan starts spinning at low speed, it seems that the 5V are going to the Power Supply line. When i switch ON the machine, the fan works at full speed. I don't want the fan to work with the usb cable attached and power OFF: i want to keep the cable connected and just switch the power ON when i need to print. There's a jumper near the fan 12V regulator that seems to solve the problem when opened but i want to check the schematics to see exactly what it does. And in the 1.5.4 schematic i don't see any obvious reason which could cause this issue.
  10. I got it, in Eagle you need to hit the buton to recalculate rats nest to also recalculate ground planes. Weird, but it's not a new issue i remember i had the same problem the last time i used ground planes on my pcbs. The incongruence between schematic and layout does not actually exist, i have made a mistake confusing 2 pin headers. Any way, back to the main topic: where are these files? Aren't them open source like previous versions? Should i ask Ultimaking support?
  11. For example Vcc in the schematics is never connected to a +5V pin on the Arduino, but in the board it actually is of course. And i can't see ground planes and some tracks in the board despite having all the layers ON:
  12. I need the schematic of the 1.5.6 pcb because i want to understand why something happens. So, where is it? On reprap wiki only ver 1.5.4 is present and, by the way, the schematic is not coherent with the board.
  13. I needed some force to push my termocouple in. I haven't been able to do it by hand, i used pincers. You can try that too but you need to be VERY careful because you could damage the two tiny wires: you want to push the cylinder in without putting pressure to the flat end that contains them.
  14. I think retraction creates more problems that it solves, or at least the speed was too low so the effect was to get even more jamming. Disabling it solved issue (1). I also printed and installed belt tensioners: this plus 0.2mm layer height also solved problem (3). I finally printed my real first object: (here it has already been cleaned) Not bad for day 3 About SkeinPyPy, i figured out that i could manually set the temperature as you said. But printing the sample it used a strange fill pattern, even if i selected rectangular: //// //// //// I then noted that problems (1) and (3) were still present so i went back to slic3r and finally fixed everything. I think Skein is probably more powerful but slic3r is catching up fast for what i have read. It also sliced yoda in 5 mins What i like in Skein is the preview so you can immediately see how big the object is, etc. That Depth Complexity View you talked about could be actually useful, printing yoda i have seen 4 unnecessary fillings, probably caused by some faces inside the mesh.
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