flyguy

Stu_le_brew What did you search on AliExpress to find these parts, I need to order the Hot end Isolator coupler. Or do you have a link to the supplier. Thank you,

In stead of messing with the code of Marlin, I started to swap out resistors 4.7k ohm was what I have been using this whole time. I tried 10k with no better results. With each resistor I recompiled the look up table with the Python script from Rep Rap 22k ohm works ! It starts off around ~ -20 only 2 less then the last value in the table {1008, -22} 47k ohm works as well but it starts around -44 Testing the 22k ohm resistor, Using my fingers to heat up the resistor It only returns a result of ~9c which means I should be dead. But I don't care, its working with out messing with any Marlin Code and no need to pre-heat the resistor. I'll be testing the results of the 22k ohm resistor at 60c, 70c, 80c, 90c, 100c with my toaster oven. ( I have one of reflow solder hacks that controls the oven's temp with an external micro controller) Thanks for everyone listening and reading to my troubles, Brian

In stead of messing with the code of Marlin, I started to swap out resistors 4.7k ohm was what I have been using this whole time. I tried 10k with no better results. With each resistor I recompiled the look up table with the Python script from Rep Rap 22k ohm works ! It starts off around ~ -20 only 2 less then the last value in the table {1008, -22} 47k ohm works as well but it starts around -44 Testing the 22k ohm resistor, Using my fingers to heat up the resistor It only returns a result of ~9c which means I should be dead. But I don't care, its working with out messing with any Marlin Code and no need to pre-heat the resistor. I'll be testing the results of the 22k ohm resistor at 60c, 70c, 80c, 90c, 100c with my toaster oven. ( I have one of reflow solder hacks that controls the oven's temp with an external micro controller) Thanks for everyone listening and reading to my troubles, Brian

Help! Anyone having issues using the Heated bed MOSFET on the Ultimaker Shield ? Here is my setup for Marlin: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build ... stepsE=800 I can see that the thermistor is working in the PrintRun. I can connect to the machine and and use a heat gun on the themistor to get a proper temperature reading. Next step is setting the Bed Temp to 60 Here is some of the read out with the Monitor Print box checked. ok T:35.7 /0.0 B:3.0 /3.0 @:0 ok T:35.8 /0.0 B:3.0 /3.0 @:0 ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:66.6 /3.0 @:0 (Applying Heat gun) ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:78.8 /3.0 @:0 ok T:35.1 /0.0 B:95.2 /3.0 @:0 ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:73.0 /3.0 @:0 ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:58.1 /3.0 @:0 Setting bed temperature to 60.0 degrees Celsius. ok T:35.5 /0.0 B:46.0 /60.0 @:0 (I Expect the red LED on the MOSFET to turn on here But it does not) ok T:35.6 /0.0 B:27.2 /60.0 @:0 ok T:35.7 /0.0 B:3.0 /60.0 @:0 ok T:35.6 /0.0 B:3.0 /60.0 @:0 I do know that, the pin on the Arduino is good as a I wrote a basic Pin High/Low program and watched the LED turn on and off. Any help thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ This page has no options to enable the heater or the heated bed. It only allows you specify the sensor, not the heater its self. I thought I had dead pins on my Arduino so I ordered a new one. But it turns out that its a software issue. In the Configuration.h of the marlin firmware I have it already set #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 6 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6 But the hot_bed and heater 1 still do not work. only heater0 works. (the hot end heater)

Ok I uploaded some basic code to the Arduino 2560, AND the 2 pins that I thought were dead are not. So I am missing something to enable the Heated bed, and the Heater 2 transistors. Anyone have an idea where I would go to enable these in the Marlin firmware. const int lowestPin = 3; const int highestPin = 4; void setup() { // set pins 2 through 13 as outputs: for (int thisPin =lowestPin; thisPin <= highestPin; thisPin++) { pinMode(thisPin, OUTPUT); } } void loop() { // iterate over the pins: for (int thisPin =lowestPin; thisPin <= highestPin; thisPin++) { // fade the LED on thisPin from off to brightest: for (int brightness = 0; brightness < 255; brightness++) { analogWrite(thisPin, brightness); delay(2); } // fade the LED on thisPin from brithstest to off: for (int brightness = 255; brightness >= 0; brightness--) { analogWrite(thisPin, brightness); delay(2); } // pause between LEDs: delay(100); } }

Hello, How would I enable the other heater transistors on the Ultimaker shield ? Would I just Edit the Pins.h file to make sure that the right pins are defined ? #define HEATER_BED_PIN 3 #define HEATER_1_PIN 4 (I know these pins are different then default) #if MOTHERBOARD == 7 #define KNOWN_BOARD /***************************************************************** * Ultimaker pin assignment ******************************************************************/ #ifndef __AVR_ATmega1280__ #ifndef __AVR_ATmega2560__ #error Oops! Make sure you have 'Arduino Mega' selected from the 'Tools -> Boards' menu. #endif #endif ...... #define HEATER_BED_PIN 3 #define TEMP_BED_PIN 10 #define HEATER_0_PIN 2 #define TEMP_0_PIN 8 #define HEATER_1_PIN 4 #define TEMP_1_PIN 9 Is there anything else that needs to be modified to enable the Heating transistors ?

Is there anything special that needs to be done to enable the Heater2 and hot bed transistors ? I have tried use these but the lights never come on. Thanks

With more testing, I validated that #define HEATER_BED_PIN 4 was set in the Marlin pin define code. I jumpped a +5v line for the Arduino to Pin3 of the transistor, and the Transistors light came one. This leads me to believe that the Arduino pin 4 is dead. I'm currently in the process of switching the bed to run from heater 2

HOT_BED Transisotor Here are the voltage reading from the transistor to GND. 0v +19v 0v Pin1 Pin2 Pin3 Seems like the transistor is not on....

Yes, It soldered directly to the power input of the 1st power supply. This is a link to the picture of how its wired up. https://plus.google.com/photos/10429557 ... 3516558898 The Terminal block is the 2nd power supply. The black color side is GND and the blue (un colored) side is +19v The White and Black wire are what is run to the headed board. The Grey wire, is where the 2nd Power supply GND is connected to the 1 st Power supply's GND. I made the heated board at home, its has not extra components on it. meaning its just a long copper trace. I wonder if I need to add a resistor or LED or something to give the circuit polarity.

Help ! This is my 2nd attempt to get this working. I used a switch before to turn on and off my heated bed. But I needed a 2nd micro controller to monitor to the temp and turn the switch on and off. Right now I currently have it wired according to the 2nd power supply topic on the page http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Heated_Bed#Heating_circuit "Secondary DC supply, e.g. 12V for reprap pcbs: The ground of this supply should be connected to the ground of the Ultimaker supply. Than one power connection of the PCB goes to the +12V of the secondary supply, while the other goes to the pin2 of the HotBed connector of the Ultimaker PCB. Its a lowside n-channel Mosfet circuit, thats why this should work. (I have not tried this personally, please be careful). Then the Ultimaker PCB should be able to control the bed." 2nd Power supply. 19v + -------------------- Heated Bed ---------------- Pin2 Hot_Bed GND ---------- Ultimaker PCB ground (Power jack) This does not work..... any idea's why ? My ultimaker PCB is version 1.5.6

I ended up ordering the 5/8" Peek Rod from mcmaster, with a M6 tap and the appropriate drill bit. I like the idea to die the bowden and tap the top of the Peek. I'll have to pick up the appropriate tooling for ACE hardware or home depot. Also I picked up a $120 mini wood lathe from harbor freight. I already had a mini drill press. lets hope for no more hot end issues !!!!

Hi, My Peek threads stripped out and the hot end fell out of the peek during a print. Does anyone know a place where I can get a replacement peek ? Preferably in the United states. Thanks, Brian

I had a thought, because the volume of material being extruded is so critical to quality prints. I was trying to think of a way to calculate the amount of material is being extruded. My thought is to use weight to calculate the volume of extruded material. http://www.tekscan.com/flexible-force-s ... ifications Anyone have input on this idea ?

So my issue was that I did not have a 2nd resistor in place. One resistor goes on the Ultimaker PCB and the other spans between the thermistor terminal This page http://reprap.org/wiki/Temperature_Sens ... tor_Values and this page helped a lot http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2007/10 ... y-way.html Also this schematic http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Cache-28487 ... 7b1d24.jpg In the Jpg above R2 is soldered on the Ultimaker PCB and R1 needs to be an additional resistor.

Hello, I've been working on a heated bed and wanted to share with everyone how I found the proper length / width of the PCB track. I have an extra 12v 6.2 amp power supply laying around. so these are the values I'll be using to figure out the right track length for the power supply. google PCB track width calculator http://circuitcalculator.com/wordpress/ ... alculator/ These are the settings Current 6 Amps <---- Based on your power supply max ouput Thickness 35 uM or 1oz ft^2 <---- What ever your PCB is. Temperature Rise 130c <---- This is how much the temperature of the PCB will rise above ambient temp set below Ambient Temperature 25c <---- Starting temp of the room. Trace Length XXXXX <---- this setting will be adjusted until the Voltage drop equals your power supply voltage. 80700 Mil's <---- I did mine in mil's and 80700 is the length of ===== My Result values based on above Values===== Results for External Layers in Air: Required Trace Width 0.750 mm Resistance 2.00 ohms Voltage Drop 12.0 volts Power Loss 72.0 watts With this you now have your Track length and track width to do a PCB or a Milled CB Thanks, Hopes this helps some people.

I thought you solder the 4.7k resistor onto the controller board. "If you solder a 4.7kOhm resistor to the Ultimaker PCB (R4 if you use TempSensor3 or R21 if you use TempSensor2) you can measure the temperature of the bed using a Thermistor more info. " http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Heated_Bed#Sensor http://wiki.ultimaker.com/File:Bedconnection.png If I understand your asci schematic correctly, would this be the proper way to connect the temp sensor ? https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B3IYX8 ... W11c21EZVk

Here is the image of the connection to the board. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B3IYX8 ... 3dPeVRMNWM

Hello, I am having some issues getting a 2nd temperature sensor working for a heated bed. I bought this sensor. http://ultimachine.com/content/thermistor-100k I added a 4.7k Resistor to R4 Yellow-Purple-Red-Gold is the resistors color Modified Marlin Configuration.h // 6 is EPCOS 100k #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 6 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0 Uploaded to the Arduino the new configuration NTC thermistors Series/Type: B57560G, B57560G1 Connected to the Temp 3 terminal on the board. GND and SIG leaving the 5v empty. (see attached picture) https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B3IYX8 ... 3dPeVRMNWM Connected with printrun USB connected and the power on My problem is it does not work. M105 returns SENDING:M105 ok T:34.2 /0.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 I assume these are temp readings 2 and 3 When I set the Heater to 200 I get this SENDING:M105 ok T:35.6 /200.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:127 @220 SENDING:M105 ok T:154.2 /220.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:127 @100 SENDING:M105 ok T:191.4 /100.0 B:0.0 /0.0 @:0 I only have 1 heater connected and it is attached to the nozzle / hot end Any idea or help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Brian

For fans I was thinking of a design where the fan would not be attached to the head but it would be mounted where the extrudes are then piped in. So the idea was to have a heated build area, not just bed, but to have a cool air feed to cool the print. using 4" dryer ducting and a 120mm fan, then run the filament bowden tube in the 4" fan ducting. This is just a new idea, at all moments there is a about a 5 mm gap that we can work with to pipe the air in from the top of the hot end to the bottom.

For my bed I ended up at the local metal supply store found here for the USA. http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ I had them cut me a 240mm (9.44in) by 240mm (9.44in) by .5 in piece of M6 Aluminum Plate. $45 strait out of the shop it has a tolerance of .005" This is pretty good. And MUCH ! more square then the ultimaker plastic bed. I clamped the ultimaker plastic bed to the aluminum block and drills the holes where appropriate. 1/8in drill bit. Installation: I removed the springs and used the longest screws from the kit From BELOW the bed going up I screwed in these screws. So all my bed leveling adjustments are done from the bottom of the bed Once the screws were all the way screwed in from the bottom. I used the lock nuts left over from kits. I screwed them about 1/4 in on each screw I rested the aluminum bed on the protruding screws. The aluminum block is not attached to the screws, the weight of the bed rests on the nuts. Advantage. You can easily get to all the screw for adjustments, with out the hot end getting in the way. I feel I get a more accurate bed height with out using the springs. Its close to perfectly square. I was tempted to bring it to my local machine shop and have them mill it down to .01mm tolerance, but I haven't had platform leveling issues yet with this setup. Heating the bed is even and easy with aluminum. Still using blue tape, waiting for the kapton tape in the mail. BEWARED: You don't get that 1/4in flex if you run your extruder head into the bed. The only flex is from the Arms from that support the bed.

This is great ! I lost those blue clips and was going to ask for somebody to send me a drawing so I could mill them out. but I love this idea way better !!! Thank you ! Brian

For my bed I ended up at the local metal supply store found here for the USA. http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ I had them cut me a 240mm (9.44in) by 240mm (9.44in) by .5 in piece of M6 Aluminum Plate. strait out of the shop it has a tolerance of .005" This is pretty good. And MUCH ! more square then the ultimaker plastic bed. I clamped the ultimaker plastic bed to the aluminum block and drills the holes where appropriate. 1/8in drill bit. Installation: I removed the springs and used the longest screws from the kit From BELOW the bed going up I screwed in these screws. So all my bed leveling adjustments are done from the bottom of the bed Once the screws were all the way screwed in from the bottom. I used the lock nuts left over from kits. I screwed them about 1/4 in on each screw I rested the aluminum bed on the protruding screws. The aluminum block is not attached to the screws, the weight of the bed rests on the nuts. Advantage. You can easily get to all the screw for adjustments, with out the hot end getting in the way. I feel I get a more accurate bed height with out using the springs. Its close to perfectly square. I was tempted to bring it to my local machine shop and have them mill it down to .01mm tolerance, but I haven't had platform leveling issues yet with this setup. Heating the bed is even and easy with aluminum. Still using blue tape, waiting for the kapton tape in the mail. BEWARED: You don't get that 1/4in flex if you run your extruder head into the bed. The only flex is from the Arms from that support the bed.

Help, I am having the same issue, Tried the controller board swap and the extruder motor still does not work. Also I can make the extruder motor work by plugin it into the X Y or Z axis controller. I see no solder issues Also my Heater is not working. I'm using Replicator G 0034 with the Base firmware that ships with the ultimaker. Thoughts ?!! Help, I hope I don't have to wait for a few board as I just took 2 weeks off work to get familiar with this product.