peggyb

@italinanmaxx: it is not necessary to power the motors of, just 'force' it, the guys from Ultimaker do it also like this... @thereza: trial and error, like you lost your material settings... there are a lot of mistakes lying around and it is hard to know afterwards what belongs to what, and it is stupid to save settings that don't work. All the silver is printed with duplicates of the standard style (with the standard material). Go to the style tab and select 'manage build styles' at the bottom. pick one from the list of build styles, and it asks you to make a duplicate (and rename it) i didn't change anything in the first frame, select 'region definitions' and select the normal (there is only one in the first place) than you can select outer-inner1-filling-upskin-downskin-suppoert to make your changes in the profile to deselect: layer type: and set it to 'disabled' the graphic shows you what is going to happen: disable filling and the green crosshatch disappears... I hope your nozzle is OK now?

just look at the difference: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13505 the strechlet1 (solid) orange: RepG026 original Ultimaker marlin2 silver: Netfabb, standard hollow (only outer, the rest disabled, every half layer, fine, snake, seam near origin, contour count 2) because only the outer is active with snake it starts slow, and it attaches better to the tape.

I really like the snake speed for half layer outer and inner 1, yes it is slower, but it makes such a difference... and also, most of the time I give a little twist extra on the z-screw at the start, just a little notch to the left.

@ robert: yes, it is 4.9 (for mac) @ Antiklesys: the screenshot is posted earlier. the only thing I could think of that affects 'comb' is the seam type.... but it sure makes a difference compared to 4.8

I set the 'seam near origin', but i did a check with the 'random seam' and it made hardly any difference in this case.

almost nothing... on the top only some very thin threads In the drawing I put some support underneath that had to be removed. The little discs on the corners are to prevent it from curling up, a tip I read in an earlier post....

@ thereza here are the material settings: Strange that your amount of plastic is way out.. This must be a combination of firmware and specific settings, I guess... why else would it work for one and not for the other? the thing that did it for me was the M92 E14, before my prints looked like yours in the first picture... and the upgrade to a better marlin: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin at the bottom of the page the explanation how to install, with the Arduino software Cura is too difficult (for me anyway..) to install on a mac. I like netfabb as a slicer, the best setting with an amazing result, I found was to change the settings (standard) for the layer type Outer and Inner1. Set both to every half layer with speed snake. that is probably close to the ultra settings, but if you use another quality, set both to: every half layer. the difference was huge! Now I hope that someone else can reproduce this!

After some struggling with the original software, I upgraded to the Erik Zalm Marlin, that uses 250 000 baud, so I changed that in Netfabb. I use Pronterface to print the gcode created in Netfabb. The rest of the settings are in the picture: standard material, standard buildstyle. In this case no post processing was needed, no strings/jumps.

the only thing I changed in the build style was the seam near origin. PLA is from Faberdashery (UK) temp. 195C.

picture of the standard-hollow

to avoid the jumping and stringing there is the choice of the seam type in the build style editor: seam near origin or randomized seam. With the randomized seam it jumps all over, seam near origin runs in circles, but leaves a little scar of the z-jump. Try the standard style first, that works fine and detailed, the other settings didn't work for me too. Make sure you have M92 E14 in the start code. and in the raft tab, choose outline, that helps the flow of the PLA at the start.