Jump to content

peggyb

Ambassador
  • Content Count

    824
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by peggyb

  1. did you select a model? with nothing selected the icons are grey.
  2. play with the initial layer thickness until the letters show in the first layer. There is also another little trick: print the first layer thin with the letters, pause the print, change the colour and resume the print. In your case I would start with one thin layer with the letters and stop the print, change the colour, change the first layer thickness to a solid first layer and print over the first layer. Info from an old topic:
  3. set the 'initial layer height' to 0.3, then the next layer will be solid.
  4. Mesmixer is my favorite way to go. It is free and there are enough tutorials available to learn its basics.
  5. did you try the little wheel icon next to the 'Experimental' tab to show all the settings visibility? Or under Preferences -> settings to check all the needed boxes? Or simply type 'fuzzy' in the search settings (fastest option)
  6. what is the function of the three posts in the print?
  7. when you use ->preferences-> multiple build plates, a little window down left appears, where the numbers are visible and clickable. It seams to be a bit of a forgotten, unfinished, but handy feature.... you can click an item in the list and the model lights up, but if you click a model it is not highlighted in the list.. And you cannot drag the window, it is overlapping with the model text
  8. Just an idea: can you check if your fan at the bottom is running? I have seen something like this before, loosing steps in the first few layers, a wire of the fan broke off.
  9. is it intended that the topic name disappeared from each post (light grey, behind the date)? this was very useful with long topics...
  10. important is to scale the shape, whatever shape you want, to the same height as the initial layer. I have a folder with some basic shapes, cilinder, cube, and bring them in multiply and scale them to my liking.
  11. I tested your setup, Cura 4.0 beta: I disabled all wall, top and bottom, only infill (100%, lines, direction 90 degrees) set the infill line width to 0.8 (0.8 nozzle) and counted 15 lines. No idea what the measure is of the printed part, due to flattening of the plastic... I think the best way to get your measurement is to play with the line with values.
  12. ...and.... you can also make your own modified 'brim'. Place a normal cube or cylinder on the bed and adjust the size and height, make the height the same as the first layer and move them to the end of your tubing. They will act as 'Mickey Mouse ears' to hold your model to the glass, without the trouble of removing a complete brim, only remove the ears at the ends. (in the preferences disable 'keep models apart')
  13. no, the nozzle doesn't get damaged. Just clean it if there is crap on it. Brim is a good idea, the model itself has very little to stick to the glass. Is the inside of the good end what you want?
  14. this could be a lot of things, test the everything from feeder to nozzle: Check if the little black wheel inside the feeder is rotating freely, and if the tension is right. When closed, try to pull at the filament if it slips. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/240-cleaning-the-feeder. Look at the marks on the filament, are they overall the same? Deep or shallow? Are there bite marks? Take the print head apart by starting with the Bowden clip and remove the Bowden tube. Heat the nozzle and push the filament through by hand. Also perform a 'cold pull'. Cool the nozzle down to 90 degrees with filament inserted, and with the print head in one corner, pull out the filament. Check what the end looks like: is it dirty, is it thicker than normal? You can do this a couple of times. Take the printhead further apart and look at the white teflon coupler. When it is brown, it should be replaced. Remove the nozzle and clean it, clean the heater block and put everything back together, tight (not over tight). Check the assembly manual for instructions https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/235-assembly Take a piece of filament and push it in from above the printhead and feel if there are any obstructions. Put the bowden tube back on, heat the nozzle and load some filament. Turn the feeder wheel and look at the extruded filament, is it a nice consistent flow? Start a print....
  15. the easiest way to deal with this is to print the missing part by detecting where it failed, then sink the model in Cura beneath the bed and glue the parts together. Even if you could manage it to resume the print, it will be a visible seam, which also happens if you pause and resume a print.
  16. Normally after each print the material is retracted and can be removed manually or automatically cold. Your situation indicates there is something left in the nozzle that sticks, so try doing some cold and hot pulls to ensure everything is clean inside the nozzle. Are you using a special filament or the default/normal ones? Or changed filament types?
  17. no problems here, everything is as expected with the default settings in Cura 4 beta. What printer and Cura version are you on?
  18. just watched this video about the use of infill on stress locations for reinforcing strength , very interesting!
  19. what would help is when you load the material, feed it manual in the Bowden tube just 2 cm, and not 20 cm like you did. What happens is that the fast forward brings the tip of the filament too soon at the nozzle. Just put in the filament 2 cm, close the feeder, let the fast forward transport the filament to the printhead and the last bit is transported slower towards the nozzle.
  20. Google for 'shoreydesigns' , I guess your info comes from this guy, super busy with printing on fabric.
  21. ik heb geen Ender, maar kijk waar de rubber transport bandjes de bocht om gaan. In elke richting zitten ze: X is links-rechts, Y is voor-achter (dus het bed) Z is hoog-laag. Dus als je verschuiving voor-achter is dan kijk je aan de uiteinden van de rubber band (timing belt), daar zit aan beide kanten een pulley, met kleine inbus boutjes aan de motor-as of frame vast. Is er ook een forum voor Creality? Misschien is daar betere info te vinden. Oh ja, en als je de snelheid verhoogd, zou je ook de temperatuur iets kunnen verhogen, zeker voor 0.2 laagdikte. Je gaat nl. sneller veel plastic verplaatsen dat op tijd verwarmd moet worden.
  22. dit is hoogst waarschijnlijk een mechanisch iets, geen software ding. Is het altijd in dezelfde richting? Controleer of alles goed vast zit en speciaal of de pullies goed vast zitten, dat zijn die ronde tand ringen tussen de stangen en de riemen (wat voor printer heb je?)
  23. make a little test with different layer heights yourself. All models are different and you choose what is best for your model. In general, layers under 0.06. are not getting better and take a lot longer to print, but in your case it might be different..??
  24. another way to check the z calibration on the fly is: when printing the first layer, if you see irregularities, gently push underneath the bed, a little upwards. If the flow gets better, adjust the screws underneath the bed, looking top down, clockwise is bed higher. Pushing too hard will result in very thin extrusion, there is a sweet spot between too thin, too thick. Just push the bed a bit while doing the first layer and look what happens, and adjust the screws accordingly. It also depends on what kind of model you print; a small surface might need to be closer then a big surface, the calibration card is a general indication.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!