peggyb

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7011-ulti-evening-25th-of-august-2014/&do=findComment&comment=65259 bring your printer, and get advice

or, when you are able to, join the Ulti-evening:http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7011-ulti-evening-25th-of-august-2014/#entry65259 bring your printer and ask what you want...

thanks for clarifying this, I couldn't see any effect on the print, nor hear any difference..

no technical knowledge from my side, this looks nice:

Set (in expert-expertsettings) the skirt line count to zero, and of course no brim.

When the power is off, can you move the whole printhead by hand. is it sliding smoothly along the rods in all directions?

Did use XT for the first time. temp. 234 degrees blue tape from reading previous posts I turned of the fan, but that didn't work: bottom part without, top part fan full on Did anyone see this also? air bubbles in the filament... don't know if this has any effect yet..

I think I would like this one...http://formlabs.com/store/eu/ € 2799, and a slightly bigger build platform: 125x125 mm And it is already their second model, so they are there for a while

all the time, or just in the beginning?

or from the fan, look (or feel) at the inside at the 2 most right ones.

for most of the settings it doesn't matter if you use 2 or org. They are just in a different place. From what I read in your comments it has a lot of 'how to make a good print'. You can bring your printer with you...

of course the serious way is to make a vector outline in inkscape, import that one in Inventor and extrude. Charmr is fun for kids parties or so, to have them pick a shape and a letter or so..

something very quick is charmr, an online app from 123D (http://www.123dapp.com/sandbox). Choose a shape and a picture.

I am, slowly, trying to change the setup to a push construction, instaed of the pull concept, because there is so much friction in the short curve at the bottom. The grinding will be related to that I guess.. Or you could replace the pla at that point by thin steel cable or so. The 100 ml syringe (http://www.polyservice.nl/Injectiespuit-p-16476.html) feels easier to push, but has more material to displace, have to test that. If it works to push the material, maybe it could work in combination with the Doodle3D box….

at http://www.ifabrica.nl, in Amsterdam-N, we offer Cura courses every thursday evening, from 18.00-21.00 hours. We start with a cup of soup/bread and then we will start. If the information is too much to handle for one evening you can get a free update…. (we have 10 Ultimakers org., a Kinect scanner and a David Structured Light scanner, and lots of other cool stuff..)

I know that there is this color changing material: http://www.formfutura.com/3mm-thermochrome-ecopla-grey.html Changes color above 30 degrees into transparent.

David laser/structured light is very good for small objects and not for moving things like persons. Hair is difficult to scan. Sense is like Kinect/Carmine (=cheaper) and looses detail on persons, like eyes, ears and mouth, but is easy to move around. All scans loose detail on straight sections like corners and flat surfaces, they are good for organic, round shapes.

put the drill in the machine at high speed and hold the nozzle in your hand. Mount the nozzle back and put some fine sand paper on the build plate and move the nozzle by hand.

i used this method: It is the other way around and no difficult tools/skills needed. Especially a nozzle will center on the hole that is already there, just hold it and let the drill do the work. After mounting it back you can put sanding paper on the build platform and move the nozzle by hand.

move the head around by hand and feel if there is some friction. Oiling the rods could help this way.

I printed these shoes for designer http://cargocollective.com/chrisvandenelzen in Woodfill fine from Colorfabb. They were for his show last week at http://fashionclash.nl and he was really happy with the result :-P The shoes are printed with a 0.8 nozzle that did shorten the print time to 11 hours instead of 21 hours a piece, and they were used for 1 minute on the catwalk….. The 12 pair took me 2 weeks to complete, starting a pair every day at ihttp://ifabrica.nl, were we have 10 Ultimakers. And of course Chris needed his time to make the leather upper parts.

or you should take a look at the SLA/DLP technology, resin cured with UV light using a laser or a beamer. The machines are more expensive (and the resin smells bad) for DIY. or you could order some examples at shapeways.com using their SLS nylon or Detail Plastic and see what the result is. Looking at the size of your models this wouldn't be too expensive.

the cool head lift works very well for thin pointed objects. Here an exemple: with and without the setting

I did this test with the same settings in 14.01-14.03-14.03test1 The 14.03 behaved different, not making smooth round circles, you could hear that it made more straight lines as a circle.

I did this test with the same settings in 14.01-14.03-14.03test1 The 14.03 behaved different, not making smooth round circles, you could hear that it made more straight lines as a circle. speed 50, temp 210, Ultimaker org.