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mariuszem

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Posts posted by mariuszem

  1. Hi gr5!

    I did check it. I reassembled whole head. Early this morning I switched my AD595 with another one (from another UMO) and it is working fine. I mean temperature is 210/210 about 99% of the time. I switches from 209 to 211 only. Prints are not 100% ok, but I'll handle that with some new nozzle/teflon.

    Should I recheck soldering on TC1 board?

    PS. Strange, my 2012 UMO TC1 board (green) is different from older one (blue) - mirrored.

  2. Hi,

    I used my UMO since 2012 (added HBK upgrade some time ago). It is a great printer. I prefer it from UM2 or UM3. It's the best 3d printer ever. Till now. My printer, stopped working properly, just like that. Temperature jumps from 200 to 230, while set to 210. I can't print with it. It happened only on one of my UMO's. Don't know why. I've seen 

    but it did not help. I've uploaded slowPWM firmware from https://bultimaker.bulles.eu and reassembled head to separate FAN wires as far as it can be done.

     

    Need help:)

  3. @maht maybe you can help me. I am using Cura on Mac (10.12.6) and my profiles do not import to new versions. It happens since 2.7. In 2.7, 3.0.1, 3.0.3, 3.0.4 and now in 3.1 I got profiles from 2.6.x (4?). That's all. It do not import materials, printers and profiles. Why is that?

    I got now Cura 3.0.3 and Ultimaker Cura 3.1 both. Old one got it all, and 3.1 shows only profiles/materials/printers from 2.6.

    It's huge problem for me to import everything manualy (I have lot more printers and materials added).

  4. I do use https://www.youmagine.com/designs/lars-ultralight-ultimaker-xy-blocks as new blocks for GT2 belts and I liked them more.

    When you use UM2 HB, you'll need E3D or MKS PT100 aplifier. Lead screw will need a change also - use step driver with same lead as original. Than you'll use same steps as with HBK upgrade (200).

    The lasercut for HB case is hosted on Git. Use only the side that is used to trigger endstop.

    You will need 24V PSU and new regulator, as amedee pointed (search for TRACO POWER TSR 1-24120).

  5. I do use UMO with different nozzles and it is same as on my UM2+/UM2 with Solex/Olson Block.

    To be honest, on UMO you need to change belts to GT2 for sure. Also steppers changed to TMC2100 is a good idea if you have UMO w/HBK not "+". Than you can print well.

    About Termo K vs PT100... sure, PT100 is way better, but I haven't got any problems becouse of that. I do use original with it's original nozzles and hotend since 2011 (or '12) successfully.

    I use Ultimakers for professional work. I also teach 3D printing in schools. Mostly I use UMO/UMO+ in schools. All my UM2+ and my old UM2 at work are in use, but I was really dissapointed when bought them (comparing to UMO).

    Summing up - at work, when 3D printing job is going to be done, 1st printer I use are UMOs, than, if UMOs are busy I use UM2+es, last one in queue is UM2 (w/Olson Block).

    • Like 1
  6. Hi,

    probably tommyph1208 did answer well all your questions.

    Here in Poland I've started 3D lessons after classes. Great problem is that students do not know 3D printing, 3D modeling and CAD software at all. We have to catch up with the basics first.

    Students are excited and they want to learn - that is great.

    Main problem is that printing is slow and noisy process. There is also no teacher that know how to use and maintain 3D printer.

    3D printer need a room. Also some monitoring (ex. octoprint) is needed. In my school, we cannot leave printer working when leaving. I can take only max. 7h prints. We work on method to pause-resume print with printer off between.

    In my school, director has no more difficulties than spare room for printer. Ultimaker is not that expensive. With my lessons we are going to have qualified teachers. Lessons are well prepared, so there is no need to buy many printes.

    For me, problem is to make director convinced, that 3D printing is enough awesome, to start after-class courses.

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